Turbo Oil Feed & Return?

[G.I.Ceo]

I have started my turbo build but the only thing I cannot figure out is what to do with the oil lines for the turbo?

What I have found is take the oil pressure sending unit off, bring it to a T fitting, and then use that to connect the feed.

The return what I gather is to tap the oil pan, add a fitting, and run the return line into that?

Are these correct or does anyone have a better way to do it?

[[ion] C2]

You don't need the oil pressure sensor (It tells you your oil pressure is low too late, so it's pointless). Just put your feed directly from your oil source.

The return, you drill and weld a fitting on the pan att he highest point you reasonably can put it.

Heat protection is essential otherwise the hoses will crack and leak as well. I don't use AN fittings anymore after numerous leak issues with them. I've switched everything to simple pushlock and never look back.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

You don't need the oil pressure sensor (It tells you your oil pressure is low too late, so it's pointless). Just put your feed directly from your oil source.

The return, you drill and weld a fitting on the pan att he highest point you reasonably can put it.

Heat protection is essential otherwise the hoses will crack and leak as well. I don't use AN fittings anymore after numerous leak issues with them. I've switched everything to simple pushlock and never look back.

So remove the pressure sending unit and run the feed from there?
Then tap the oil pan for the return?

On the pushlock can you get those connections on the turbo too? What size line should I buy for the oil F/R?

[[ion] C2]

Yes, I just cut and weld the barb part. They're just an aggressive hose barb that requires no clamps. You have to make an attempt to keep the barb itself far enough away from a heat source so it doesn't heat up the hose internally too much and cause it to crack (I have this issue with the oil feed because my hose connects right onto the fitting that's right in the middle of the turbo.) I need to weld a longer tube to it to get it farther away so the heat doesn't soak that far.

Feed 1/4" (-4 AN)
Drain 5/8" (-10AN)

[G.I.Ceo]

Thanks for the help.

I was a little lost on how to do this but I figured it was probably pretty easy to do.

I did find a picture of a oil pan with a -AN fitting drilled and tapped into it with a push-lock fitting.

Did you have to drop your oil pan to install the return line into it?

[[ion] C2]

You only drop the oil pan to install the fitting. There's no way you're drilling and welding an oil pan while it's on the car, with oil residue all inside it. Fire.

[G.I.Ceo]

Duh I cant even believe I asked you that about dropping the oil pan.

I have seen where people have also tapped the oil pan and threaded a 10 -AN Male/Male fitting and then just used ATV sealant on the threads. I know it is probably best to have the fitting welded right on so you don't have to worry about it leaking.

I'm so ready to start working on this thing but I need to gather some more parts before I start the work. Tired of having a GT35R as a paper weight but it is cool to look at. Also I have to relocate my battery to my trunk first before anything else gets started.

[G.I.Ceo]

Hey [ion] C2, do you use a oil restrictor for your oil feed? I have read for my Garrett GT35R I should use a oil restrictor of around .060. Does that sound right to you? I guess it helps with leaks.

[[ion] C2]

ya ball bearing turbos should have restrictors on them, mine is 0.035 I think

it doesn't need much oil at all

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by G.I.Ceo

............ Tired of having a GT35R as a paper weight but it is cool to look at. Also I have to relocate my battery to my trunk first before anything else gets started.

How much does it weigh?

Most people route the battery wires through the interior. I went down into the frame rail, through the frame then under the car along the fuel lines. I got some ashpalt coated protective sheathing at NAPA and fed the positive cable through that for protection, routed directy to the starter. A little messy, but it does the job.

When you mount the battery, use 3/8 inch bolts and allow for space to add a sealed cover.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by AleroB888

How much does it weigh?

Most people route the battery wires through the interior. I went down into the frame rail, through the frame then under the car along the fuel lines. I got some ashpalt coated protective sheathing at NAPA and fed the positive cable through that for protection, routed directy to the starter. A little messy, but it does the job.

When you mount the battery, use 3/8 inch bolts and allow for space to add a sealed cover.

The turbo weighs a little over 20 pounds.

I was thinking of buying Milzy's relocater kit because it is $160 and it includes everything I would need to relocate the battery to the trunk.

[MMGT1]

Considering just the dam box from morroso is 125, that is a good deal man

[MilzyZ34]

there is a 1/4" pipe plug right above and to the left of the oil filter. this is the best place to use for the oil feed because it is filtered oil. I install a 1/4" npt to -4 straight fitting, and then put a -4 90 on there, the run the line to the turbo. Routing isn't real crucial, just keep away from heat and moving parts (fans). Now routing on the oil drain is another story. It needs to be flowing downhill the whole way from the turbo to the pan. it cannot move up at any point during the way down to the pan. we weld a -10an weld fitting on the front of the pan. we sell these modified oil pans for a good price on the website. if you build your own, make sure you pick a spot that is away from the starter and AC, as high up on the pan as possible, between oil pan bolts, etc. A 45 degree hose end fitting is a good choice at the pan because you can clock it upwards to give it a good slope.

[G.I.Ceo]

Originally Posted by MilzyZ34

there is a 1/4" pipe plug right above and to the left of the oil filter. this is the best place to use for the oil feed because it is filtered oil. I install a 1/4" npt to -4 straight fitting, and then put a -4 90 on there, the run the line to the turbo. Routing isn't real crucial, just keep away from heat and moving parts (fans). Now routing on the oil drain is another story. It needs to be flowing downhill the whole way from the turbo to the pan. it cannot move up at any point during the way down to the pan. we weld a -10an weld fitting on the front of the pan. we sell these modified oil pans for a good price on the website. if you build your own, make sure you pick a spot that is away from the starter and AC, as high up on the pan as possible, between oil pan bolts, etc. A 45 degree hose end fitting is a good choice at the pan because you can clock it upwards to give it a good slope.

Yeah I decided to buy the oil pan from. Right now your building brackets for my intercooler, deleting my PCV, welding on my 3500 UIM, and building me a vacuum block. Can't wait to get back to work on my build. I took way to much time off from it but I just haven't had time especially with finishing school.