Saga of "Crank, No Start!"

AleroJones · 12-31-2016, 12:47 PM

I have read through many pages here and did not find an answer so I am posting with my story.
First off, my car is a 2003 Olds Alero 3.4L, GL Sedan.
A couple years ago I had the security issue and I just got used to turning ignition on for 8 to 10 minutes until the light went out when it wouldn't start.
About six months ago the light started staying on and I always could start my car. November comes and after sitting for about three weeks my car wouldn't start. I changed the spark plugs and used starting fluid to get the car started and it ran as if there were never a problem. Two days later it takes starting fluid to get it started again and to this day it takes the starting to start but I can stop and go all day long with no problems, it is when the car sits overnight that I have to use the starting fluid.
I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator with no improvement.
What's next??? The car runs great after the ether boost but I am truly puzzled!!!
Thanks in advance,

1970cs · 12-31-2016, 05:57 PM

Pull your idle air control valve and clean it and the port area!

Pat

AleroJones · 12-31-2016, 11:23 PM

Thanks I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I cleaned the MAF last week and it wasn't too dirty at all.

The part was taken off and cleaned then put back on with no change. It still needs the ether to start but once the car is running it runs and sounds great!

AleroJones · 01-03-2017, 05:21 PM

Found the problem today after renting fuel pressure kit from Autozone! I have a fuel leak somewhere!
Checked pressure this morning and it was at 0.00, after energizing the fuel pump about 40 times I got the pressure up to 39 lbs but car would not start until using the ether.
After the car was running the pressure stayed steady at 39 lbs.
I would like to know if the new pump should be pumping higher than that or if the pressure is good.
It will be a couple days before I can get under the car because of the rain.
Guess I will start at the tank and work forward until I find it.

zzyzzx · 01-03-2017, 07:12 PM

What brand of replacement fuel pump did you use?
When you were testing for fuel pressure, how long did you leave the pump powered before you took the reading?

AleroJones · 01-03-2017, 09:20 PM

The pump was from Autozone, what brand I don't know but it was the complete kit with pressure sensor, etc.
As far as measuring the car was running with a pressure of 39 lbs, I bled the pressure off and let it build again and again it stopped at 39 lbs. I let it run and build for about 4 or 5 minutes each time.

Here's the part page from Autozone:
http://m.autozone.com/fuel-systems/f...0966?location=

03Alerosil · 01-04-2017, 09:39 AM

That seems low to me. In my experience a fuel pump should measure between 45 to 65. I'd say either there is a restriction or the pump is junk. Never did have any luck personally with junk from autozone. When it comes to fuel pumps the best and only way to go is factory parts. I only use Delphi or Ac/Delco parts for fuel on any GM. Aftermarket parts just don't cut it with them

AleroJones · 01-04-2017, 07:06 PM

I have had same experience with Autozone and so I don't buy from them either however the mechanic I paid to put the pump in bought the pump from Autozone.

03Alerosil · 01-05-2017, 09:38 AM

Being a mechanic myself I'd of thought they would know better. Good luck to you bud

zzyzzx · 01-05-2017, 10:21 AM

For fuel pumps go OE only (Delphi or AC Delco).

AleroJones · 01-11-2017, 10:03 PM

After checking and replacing parts unnecessarily in my car I decided it was time to check the injectors. I got the intake manifold off and saw some tell-tale signs of fuel leakage. I will try to add a photo but having trouble with resizing the photo to suit the system here. Anyway if anyone wants to comment I would appreciate it.
I will have the fuel rail off tomorrow and clean the injectors but everything is clean except that one gasket leakage on the firewall side.

I will add that I am not a mechanic by trade and I have not ever worked a fuel injected car so some of my questions may seem dumb to you more knowledgeable folks.
I am simply lost in figuring this out but I am convinced that I am losing pressure somewhere and I need to find the culprit.
I also have the fuel rail loose now but I cannot get the electrical clips loose and I cannot get the rail loose at the other of end of the Schrader valve, I have the line nut loose but I don't get why it won't pull apart.
And finally is the Schrader valve different from the ones for tires?

AleroJones · 01-14-2017, 10:01 PM

Two bad injectors and some wore out O-rings!!!

03Alerosil · 01-16-2017, 08:50 AM

Glad you got it figured out. So did you replace all the o-rings while it was apart?

AleroJones · 01-17-2017, 10:16 AM

I ordered new injectors and going to replace all at the same time. They have not come in yet and I am expecting to see new O-rings on the injectors.
I think I need a new Schrader valve core on the fuel rail and I would like to know if an A/C core will work in the fuel rail? They are a lot cheaper than the AC Delco valve core and easier to find.

03Alerosil · 01-18-2017, 08:22 AM

Not sure if it is an exact fit but I've seen guys use the valve core from a valve stem before. I would think one for A/C would work. Why do you think you need a new one? They typically do not go bad.

AleroJones · 01-20-2017, 11:37 AM

I'm trying to cover all bases in my effort to solve the pressure leak. Also there was fuel in the cap after I took the fuel rail off.
And there is a difference in valve cores.
Fuel valve cores use Viton as a seal material where a/c and air use rubber or teflon.
That info comes directly from Schrader International.

mrbreezeet1 · 01-20-2017, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03Alerosil

That seems low to me. In my experience a fuel pump should measure between 45 to 65. I'd say either there is a restriction or the pump is junk. Never did have any luck personally with junk from autozone. When it comes to fuel pumps the best and only way to go is factory parts. I only use Delphi or Ac/Delco parts for fuel on any GM. Aftermarket parts just don't cut it with them

Delphi or Ac/Delco parts for fuel on any GM
I agree with this

AleroJones · 02-02-2017, 05:59 PM

I was finally able to put my car back together yesterday. I put six new injectors in with new clips, replaced a couple pieces of plastic hose and new thermostat.
I first turned the fuel pump on about six times and it started after sitting over a week!
It run beautifully! Drove it and no problems then this afternoon the car would not start so I sprayed it once with starting fluid, cranked it and it wouldn't start so I immediately cranked again and it started. Drove it with no problems.
So now I am wondering what the heck is the problem! I am back to the way it was but with more new parts under the hood!!!!
This car is driving me crazeeeeeeee! LOL!
Could this be a sensor of some sort that is causing the problem?

AleroJones · 02-18-2017, 07:31 PM

More crazeeeee!
I went through all the fuses and found #37 blown, I replaced it and bamm! NO MORE STARTING ISSUES!!!
I drove the car on an 1100 mile trip and everything was fine. During the trip I gassed up at a "mom and pop" station and about two blocks away the service engine soon light came on and it is still on. I had bought a hand held reader and it gave me code #172, "rich mixture", so now how do I get a leaner fuel mixture?
I have gone through three tanks of gas and the light has not cleared so I guess it will take something else to shut the light off.
As usual any help will be appreciated!
Thanks,

That01Olds · 02-18-2017, 11:19 PM

I would say try clearing the code and see if it comes back. I would also maybe throw some Heet and Gumout or something similar in there the next time you fill up and see if that helps any.

The car just may not have liked something that was in the gas from that mom and pop shop causing it to run more rich than normal and if you hadn't used all of the gas from there when you filled up again, it could still be lingering in the fuel system somewhere. The Heet will take out any moisture in the fuel system while the Gumout will clean it out. Then I would go from there if you're still having issues after that.