04-25-2014, 05:05 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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Need help wiring amp!!
Today I fed the wires through my car, but when i went to hook up to the battery, the type of wire terminal isn't compatible with the battery terminal. Though it WOULD easily hook to the power cable on the fuse box that connects it to the battery. Is that safe to do? As in does the fuse box power cable get the same alternator charge as the battery? If so could i just hook up right there? Running 800W RMS.
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04-25-2014, 05:09 PM
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#2
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 581
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I'm not sure, but I don't think running an amp through a fuse box is a good idea. Your best bet is to find the compatible battery terminals and hook it up that way. Also, I'm assuming the wire is at least 4 gauge which wouldn't fit in the fuse box.
__________________
2002 Alero GL 2.2L Eco-tec w/ 87,800km
New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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04-25-2014, 05:35 PM
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#3
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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Well I wasn't necessarily going to be running it through the box, just "share" the power wire. But you're right i do have 4 gauge and i was going to cut out a port in the cover for it if it worked. Just need to know if id get the same power that the battery gets. Last resort Ill just find another terminal just don't know one that'll fit in such a weird battery terminal
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04-25-2014, 06:54 PM
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#4
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 581
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Could you post a picture of what the terminal looks like? Is it the standard alero battery terminals?
__________________
2002 Alero GL 2.2L Eco-tec w/ 87,800km
New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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04-25-2014, 09:10 PM
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#6
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,979
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i work at a snowplow dealer/chevy dealer. we have side terminal adapters taht allow you to isntalled an "eye" terminal, then install the adapter and then install the original battery terminal.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gra...ge/1306095.jpg
__________________
The dumbass that shows up randomly 10 years after selling the car.
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04-26-2014, 12:52 PM
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#7
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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Yea its the standard terminal. Thanks guys, been a great help!
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04-26-2014, 05:25 PM
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#8
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GL Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sacramento,Calif
Posts: 730
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be sure to throw up some pics after your done
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04-27-2014, 11:44 AM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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will do, sub comes tomorrow
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04-27-2014, 11:48 AM
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#10
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GL Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sacramento,Calif
Posts: 730
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what ya going to run amp and speaker wise?
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04-27-2014, 05:16 PM
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#11
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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The 12" Kicker CompR Loaded Enclosure and KX800 amp. Came with a neat volume control knob that i screwed in next to my seat. Ill have pics up tomorrow once i figure out how.
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04-27-2014, 05:20 PM
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#12
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GL Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sacramento,Calif
Posts: 730
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Nice looking forward to the review.
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04-28-2014, 02:01 AM
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#13
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,460
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I know I'm late, but I had my 900 watt Boston Acoustics amp hooked up to the "AUX" terminal of fhe fusebox of my Cutlass Supreme before I took it out. There's no real harm done to it since for the most part, the alternator's wire goes straight to the battery and the other cable attached to the battery terminal goes straight to the fuse box. As long as the cable is fused you should be good. Any jolts in power will pop the fuse before transferring it to the fusebox... and besides, that same jolt would probably travel to the fusebox anyways considering it's the same cable.
__________________
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1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme
2̶0̶0̶2̶ ̶C̶h̶e̶v̶r̶o̶l̶e̶t̶ ̶C̶a̶m̶a̶r̶o̶
1996 Infiniti G20
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z34
1989 Buick Regal Limited
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04-28-2014, 09:59 AM
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#14
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas Escobar
I know I'm late, but I had my 900 watt Boston Acoustics amp hooked up to the "AUX" terminal of fhe fusebox of my Cutlass Supreme before I took it out. There's no real harm done to it since for the most part, the alternator's wire goes straight to the battery and the other cable attached to the battery terminal goes straight to the fuse box. As long as the cable is fused you should be good. Any jolts in power will pop the fuse before transferring it to the fusebox... and besides, that same jolt would probably travel to the fusebox anyways considering it's the same cable.
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The only issue is with the wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box, it's not the same as car audio wire (a lot less strands) so there is more resistance. The factory wire that went from my alt + to the battery looks like 8 gauge welding cable so I wouldn't use that to power my amps. To get the most power out of the amps, I would recommend running directly from the battery with the correct fuses.
__________________
2002 Alero GL 2.2L Eco-tec w/ 87,800km
New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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04-28-2014, 10:07 AM
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#15
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OSV coming soon!!!!!
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: lindsay, ontario
Posts: 2,375
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While I agree with hooking directly to the main battery terminal, unless you are going for a full competition setup, hooking to the fuse box is acceptable as long as it is done properly... I have done both in multiple cars over the years with no issues... some people just want a bit of bump and this works quite well for them... others are more serious and go with the main battery hookup... again, just my .02, take it as it is!
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04-28-2014, 05:47 PM
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#16
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GX Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 79
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Your all making valid points which ironically doest make my decision making any easier lol but if what S8track16 said is true, even if id still get an alt charge from the box that extra resistance cant be good since my system demands 2 ohms. Right? I know im nitpicking but i like to do it right, no half assery. you all understand
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04-28-2014, 08:54 PM
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#17
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 581
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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-40KX8001.html
If this is your amp, it says that 4 gauge is recommended for power and ground. It would be the best bet to run a wire from the front battery to the amp with fuses 12" or less from the main battery and another fuse 12" or less away from the amp (if there aren't any onboard fuses on the amp itself). Mainly because of the reason I mentioned above with the factory wire not meeting this 4 gauge requirement.
__________________
2002 Alero GL 2.2L Eco-tec w/ 87,800km
New System in Progress...Mids/Tweets: 2 Skar SPX component sets powered by a Skar 85.4. Subs: Hybrid 15" DD/AA, Amp: Skar SK3500, 2 runs (power and ground) of Knu OFC 0 gauge, XS d3400 up front, 2 Deka g31s in the trunk...more to come
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04-29-2014, 04:27 AM
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#18
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStoltz
Your all making valid points which ironically doest make my decision making any easier lol but if what S8track16 said is true, even if id still get an alt charge from the box that extra resistance cant be good since my system demands 2 ohms. Right? I know im nitpicking but i like to do it right, no half assery. you all understand
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Unless you're talking more than 900 watts RMS, there's no real reason to worry.
As far as resistance, 2ohms are a lot easier to power than 4ohms. It's easier to power 100 watts at 2 than 100 watts at 4. You can also blow stuff up quicker that way. The real thing to worry about is total watts. You can run 500 watts at 2 ohms no problem and not do any real damage while being more efficient with it. But that same power that you used to get 500 watts at 2 ohms will be the equivalent of 250-350 watts at 4 ohms.
My final point?
Decide how many watts total will be needed and plan accordingly.
If you're gonna go for the 1000, get a dual post battery or get the adapter to connect more wires to it.
http://www.carid.com/universal-trail...FaMcOgodX0YAGw
They sell it at most auto parts stores for less than $10. Advance Auto Parts, Pepboys, Auto Zone, they're all known to have it.
__________________
2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶P̶o̶n̶t̶i̶a̶c̶ ̶G̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶A̶m̶
1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme
2̶0̶0̶2̶ ̶C̶h̶e̶v̶r̶o̶l̶e̶t̶ ̶C̶a̶m̶a̶r̶o̶
1996 Infiniti G20
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z34
1989 Buick Regal Limited
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04-29-2014, 12:28 PM
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#19
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GL Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Sacramento,Calif
Posts: 730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStoltz
Your all making valid points which ironically doest make my decision making any easier lol but if what S8track16 said is true, even if id still get an alt charge from the box that extra resistance cant be good since my system demands 2 ohms. Right? I know im nitpicking but i like to do it right, no half assery. you all understand
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I agree there... if you're going to do it might as well do it right. Probably would be easier to hook it to the battery anyway actually. I also agree with the fuse I have one running between my battery and the amp. Hardest parts getting the thick cable thru the firewall lol.
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04-29-2014, 03:36 PM
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#20
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 1,460
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The Alero's entrance is a lot easier than any other car I've seen though. After wiring up my Camaro and my Cutlass... I wish I still had my Grand Am because it was so easy to do things to it.
__________________
2̶0̶0̶3̶ ̶P̶o̶n̶t̶i̶a̶c̶ ̶G̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶A̶m̶
1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme
2̶0̶0̶2̶ ̶C̶h̶e̶v̶r̶o̶l̶e̶t̶ ̶C̶a̶m̶a̶r̶o̶
1996 Infiniti G20
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z34
1989 Buick Regal Limited
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