What Is The Best Way To Make A Sub Box

What is the best way to make a sub box to allow for a nice deep base? I have been playing around with 1000 and 700 watt subs and can't seem to hear it much outside the car. Inside is a different story. Right now I have cheap boss and blitz subs don't laugh I know they suck but they should have a bit more power then they do. Total watts I have in subs is 3400.

Adam

how many subs do you have........and you must be reading max power, look for the rms power on the subs and then find out the rms power your amp is pushing out........you could need a bigger amp, or you probably need some nicer speakers, there is a reason they get expensive........

Box type will be dependant on the specs of your subs.
And how much room you have for the style of box you want to build.

And it also depends on what you are looking for. Do you want your system to sound good or are you just looking to annoy people in residential areas when you drive through late at night with your bass rattling windows in their homes.

I first suggest lots of research and reading.

Here is a good place to start
http://www.the12volt.com/
Tons of great info and a really good forums.

Here's another great site with a ton of good info.
http://www.bcae1.com/

[Youngblood77]

1) who cares about what it sounds like OUTside of the car? You can't drive it from the other lane...

2) As-for box types, it mainly depends on your subs. Use these suggestions as a rule of thumb, but keep in mind: the main variables in the equasion are the amount of power being supplied, and the spec of the subs in question.

a) small sealed enclosures: require more power, but are very accurate.
b ) large sealed enclosures: require a little less than the small enclosures, are a little less accurate, but in small circomstances, play a LITTLE louder.
c) ported boxes: require less power than sealed boxes, and play louder than sealed boxes with the same amount of power, but are far less accurate.
d) bandpass boxes: require the least amout of power to produce the same amount of sound, but they tend to sound boomy, are VERY-inaccurate, and are only efficient in a narrow range.

If you got cheap subs and a cheap amp but want alot of sound, go with a bandpass box. they make even the WORST subs sound big ( in a vary narrow frequency range, of course )

sounds good to me. I am thinking of getting rid of the subs and amp I got right now and replacing it with a good system. I want a 3000+ watt system that sounds bad ass. If this means I have to pay 1500.00 for the subs and amps so be it. I can make the box lol.

Adam

[mikegett]

Great responses voodosoup and youngblood. As for glowbot, be aware that building a box is where most people go wrong. A sealed enclosure is the easiest to build but if it is too small only a short range of frequencies will be heard. I have been around car audio for quite some time. I worked in a wood shop for two years just out of school. This does not mean that I can make a good box. It is a science and should be treated as one. More than likely your crappy speakers are fine but the box or amp is the problem.
I would also like to stress that extreme sounds out side of the car is why the rest of us get subjected to noise pollution laws. I love my music loud, but for gods sake dynomat.

if you want to boom make a large box and tune it to 40+hz it will be loud. if you want sq get a quality sub like strike audio or a tulumunt 15 they will rock your house

[Youngblood77]

" I love my music loud, but for gods sake dynomat. " Amen.

5/8" MDF Board...Sealed box if you want tight, responsive bass...ported if you wand just loud, not so crisp bass. Use any type of sealant that dries HARD (i.e. liquid nails). When building to spec. for the sub, make sure you measure the INSIDE dimensions of the box (this is easily forgotten). As for box design...that's whatever your creative mind can come up with. If you get wild with it and try to have 2 subs at an angle firing towards eachother, becareful, it is possible to have them cancel out eachother's frequencies if at the correct (or INcorrect for that matter) angle. As for carpet/covering of the box...WalMart sells automotive carpet in rolls for like $7something, that works alright. I recently built a box for a friend and we went to a fabric store and bought this imitation crushed velvet fabric and it works AWESOME..best I've used so far. It stretchy so we just stretched it over the box after we sprayed it w/ some 3M spray adhesive. (the box that is). Any other ??'s or further details, just send me a PM or an email

[BLK03GXS]

I just finished Started building a box for my buddys sunfire, he just got a new Alpine X-12 and MRD-M1001 to power it...
The box is built of 3/4 mdf, air nailed together, and then fiberglassed on the inside, and out, and will have a Fiberglass bluff panel on the front of the box to meet up with the amp rack.

The box was designed with the help of calculators on The Basic car audio site that Voodosup posted b4.. (the bottem one)
The box has An internal volume of about 1.82 cubic feet loaded.. with a Slot port tuned to about 35hz....

It should be loud.. but then this is a Wanna be Show car /Spl dragster

if Your trying to make the music loud out of your car dont be a jackass...

Its supostu be loud in the car, no where else. and i would HIGHLY suggest that you read the pages that voodosup posted, because the amount of "sub watts" you have dosent even make sense... i think you need to give your head a shake <_<

And if you want to know more about construction of boxes, or want suggestions or questions awnsered you can feel free to email or pm myself as well... :thumbsup: