05-01-2004, 11:17 PM
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#1
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ok so daytona,
i have this problem with the strip i am not sure how to correct. i know how to with rear wheel drive but not the front wheel drive.
my problem when i luanch the ass end of my car sinks the front lifts and the wheels roll in (negitive camber) which is wearing the crap out of the tires. now in the olds days you used 90-10 shocks and problem solved. is the a fix to this problem with front wheel drive?
any help is greatly appreciated
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05-02-2004, 07:37 PM
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#2
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GL Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
Posts: 864
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Im not sure what they are called but some of the proffessional racers have what looks like a wheelie bar on the back. If you could find a similar setup that you could use just on the track I would think that that would help. BTW.. what are you HP numbers up too?
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05-03-2004, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado springs
Posts: 626
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the adjustible coilover setup I have would help
if the suspension gives less then the car wont sink
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05-03-2004, 03:50 PM
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#4
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Cheapest and easiest is to put blocks of wood between the rear coils on your car, so it sits up high and can't squat down so far when launching.
Also, hang some kids over the front bumper of your car to help keep the front end down, thats what I do... B)
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05-04-2004, 06:30 PM
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#5
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I thought every alero had this problem, well at least the 3400 sfi engined ones. My cars does that also, but it does it alot. Not enough for a wheelie or anything, so there is no need for a wheelie bar. If you honestly need more weight in the front of your car so that it does'nt rise off the ground just use a better suspension.
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05-04-2004, 06:44 PM
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#6
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The problem is no the wheels coming off the ground. it is weight transfer as you accelerate the ass squawts rolling the tires in toward the engine, which in turn gives you less contact patch which is why the inside tires are wearing. The suspension is doing what iyt is designed to do. and as most of you know there is not alot out there as far as suspension upgrades i already have eibachs and next level sway bar and strut braces front and rear
i am close to 300 hp at the wheels since the intercooler install. not as close as John but close 295.
i was really hope to hear from Daytona on this one but some of you have come up with a few ideas i may try out
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05-04-2004, 07:19 PM
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#7
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Sheboygan,WI
Posts: 1,232
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ive seen some pretty interesting ideas at the track before...a guy with a trailer hitch...with the removeable ball (know what i mean?)...he used a adjustable spring loaded bar to keep the back end from squatting.......
also like john said...a set of coilovers in the back set to full on high and harsh would cure it too...
there is also on other thing you could do or try...with my old Monza, i had to put limiting straps on the front suspension to stop the over extension...so maybe you could even get away with something almost like a mini ratchet strap...ends cut off of course ( so no loose ends)...like maybe on the lower arm, to the top of the strut plate...(not sure if that would pass tech, but ive seen worse)
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05-04-2004, 08:54 PM
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#8
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Remember, the problem is NOT with weight transfer. Even if you had a solid mounted suspension on both ends of the car, and the suspension couldn't move an inch, there would STILL be weight transfer. That fact can never be avoided.
However, as he stated, the problem is with weight transfer comes suspension squatting in the rear and jumping in the front, which causes camber changes and reduces traction even further. Like I already said, blocking the rear springs up so they can't squat down, and even tying down the front spring coils can help reduce or eliminate this effect. But it will not reduce weight transfer.
WWD cars are always at a disadvantage because of weight transfer.
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05-04-2004, 09:44 PM
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#9
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i agree you will never be able to stop weight transfer. this is a givin. what ever can be done to minimize the rate of transfer helps out every bit. i believe the best answer is working with the rear. if one could slow the rate of compresion to the rear springs etc: block the springs, you slow the transfer of wieght becuase there is nothing to asorb or poop the weight
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05-04-2004, 09:49 PM
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#10
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hmmm not sure what happen at the end of the last post but i meant stop the weight sorry
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05-05-2004, 08:47 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: ALBERTA AKA MORDOR
Posts: 1,253
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Ok first get some stiff ass shocks in the back, maybe supliment with airbags... you would have to kustom make em.. so that you dont get soo much squat, next would be to lighten the back of your car, run with a half tank, no spare etc...
Stiffen up the front with some good shocks, this should help, allso the lower you go the less you are going to see the squat, and thus less weight transfer.
On the other side of things.. take out the back interior, just in general get the back lighter, and stiffen the poop outta the back
that'll help :thumbsup:
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05-06-2004, 01:36 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado springs
Posts: 626
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we are not just talking track use here
we are talking street as well
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05-06-2004, 01:48 AM
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#13
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: ALBERTA AKA MORDOR
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Well adding stiffer springs/shocks or a kustom air bag setup could be used street or strip... and with an airbag deal it would be adjustable... maybe on the street he shouldnt be launching the car soo much... lol
That would help the tire wear... :rolleyes:
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05-06-2004, 02:53 AM
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#14
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WTF, a wheelie bar, on a FWD car.
The best way to actually be harness your power besides the given above, stiffer suspension etc. Would be to upgrade your motor mounts to reduce well hop and probably new tranny mounts aswell. But first i'd try stiffer springs and struts. BTW have you done any suspension work already?
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05-06-2004, 11:17 AM
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#15
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GL Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally posted by StealthAlero@May 6 2004, 02:53 AM
WTF, a wheelie bar, on a FWD car.
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It would prevent the back end from dropping down thus not letting the front jump up as much. Not to prevent a wheelie. If he likes his suspension the way it is maybe a removable "wheelie" bar would help for what he needs.
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05-06-2004, 01:22 PM
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#16
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Central PA
Posts: 715
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B) they do make coil over blocks, my moms cavy sagged like hell in the back, so when i got the money i bought some solid rubber blocks to put in the coil overs. they fit right in, the only bad part is they are a BIATCH to get in, but once theyre in they aint coming out(unless you have a BFH). it worked pretty good too, the tires dont rub the wheel well anymores B), its a cheap way to go and its very reliable
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05-06-2004, 01:30 PM
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#17
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Where did you get these at and what was the cost?
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05-06-2004, 01:36 PM
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#18
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as far as suspension upgrades like i had sated before i have eibachs, front next level sawy bar strut braces front and rear, i also have a solid mount up front thanks to john for giving me the info on filling with uretheane.
as far as not launching so much on the street, that is a tough one. what do you do when the honda boys pull up next to you and ask why would you do that to a grandma car? well i just punch it and wait at the next light for them and say that is why and by the way why would you do that to a honda. itis amazing that they then turn at the next street. my car holds it's own it just amazes me as to how many people think we have grandma cars.
i was at a car show this past weekend showing and several people including old muscle ar guys said how unique the car was and it was good to see someone do something to american car and not the import stuff.
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05-06-2004, 04:39 PM
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#19
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Central PA
Posts: 715
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i got them at autozone for $7.49 each
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05-06-2004, 05:12 PM
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#20
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I still like my idea of blocks between the coils in the rear and tie-downs for the front springs for quick, dirty, cheap, ghetto track use.
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