02-23-2007, 05:51 AM
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#1
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Someone saw one once but only for a second...
Has anyone seen Lambo doors on an Alero? Ever? Are there any pictures of this? Everyone seems to be against it for the most part but I do have a good reason for asking since I have a 2 door and live on a nice slope, my wife is both a little short and disabled so opening long heavy doors is a problem. She just kind of thows it and then comes right back at her.
This wouldn't be an anytime soon thing but I would really like to see how it looks on our cars so I know where on the list it should go. Since she already has problems with the stock height and the heavy doors, I was thinking thinking some vertical doors and 'Oh my God!!" handles might work out nice for her since she has knee and lower back injuries and since I'll probably lower it another 2 inches when I replace the struts.
You can't tell me for all the money people have put into their Alero's no one has put Vertical doors on it!!
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02-23-2007, 10:43 AM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 52
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02-23-2007, 11:28 AM
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#3
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2Screwy
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 13,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghadsphi
You can't tell me for all the money people have put into their Alero's no one has put Vertical doors on it!!
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there is a reason it looks effin stupid, but if you have a medical reason to do it, it won't be as bad......
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02-23-2007, 11:35 AM
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#4
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GLS member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 4,284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwhauck
there is a reason it looks effin stupid, but if you have a medical reason to do it, it won't be as bad......
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Not to make light of anybody's medical condition, but is that going to be the new excuse for doing something stupid?
Dude, I painted my rims orange
That's effing stupid
Yeah but I have a "medical condition"
Oh, well that looks cool then
__________________
2003 2.2 Eco http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2478473 SOLD
1994 Chevy Suburban aka The Zombie Mower 4" Rancho suspension lift 2" body lift. 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Radial M/Ts 10000K HID 12" JL W3 Subs in custom box 1000W Alpine mono amp 1F capacitor 6.5" JL mids 4X6 Pioneers in dash 450W Alpine 4 channel Dynomax cat & exhaust
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT chameleon paint, Cadillac 22" wheels
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02-23-2007, 01:04 PM
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#5
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GLS member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 1,876
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^^ I dont believe theres the same application on orange rims and on easier to open doors lol. It's true that the coupe's doors are a little heavy and maybe can be a problem for some ppl.
My only question would be, didn't you buy a caddy to your wife?
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2 door 2000 Black GX With a stick: M45 eaton supercharger - Quad4's 57mm Throttle body - Custom WAI - KYB GR-2 struts - CM Lowering springs - Front and rear strut tower brace - R1 concept zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors with semi-metallic pads - short shifter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alerosaint
the #6 bolt torque..its impossible to get...unless I use telekenesis
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02-23-2007, 01:07 PM
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#6
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They call me 8 point!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 12,209
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Why dont you just be a gentlemen and hold the door open for her?
__________________
R.I.P. Dennis J. Willis July 14, 1977 - Jan 19, 2007
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02-23-2007, 01:16 PM
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#7
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GLS member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 4,284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleN0alero
Why dont you just be a gentlemen and hold the door open for her?
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there's a novel idea. I bet that guy that busted in on the dude watching porn would open the door for his woman
__________________
2003 2.2 Eco http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2478473 SOLD
1994 Chevy Suburban aka The Zombie Mower 4" Rancho suspension lift 2" body lift. 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Radial M/Ts 10000K HID 12" JL W3 Subs in custom box 1000W Alpine mono amp 1F capacitor 6.5" JL mids 4X6 Pioneers in dash 450W Alpine 4 channel Dynomax cat & exhaust
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT chameleon paint, Cadillac 22" wheels
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02-23-2007, 01:19 PM
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#8
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GLS member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 4,284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinalero
^^ I dont believe theres the same application on orange rims and on easier to open doors lol. It's true that the coupe's doors are a little heavy and maybe can be a problem for some ppl.
My only question would be, didn't you buy a caddy to your wife?
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I wan't trying to make a correlation between the two. I'm completely ok with a modifaction for ease of use due to a physical need for the ease of use.
__________________
2003 2.2 Eco http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2478473 SOLD
1994 Chevy Suburban aka The Zombie Mower 4" Rancho suspension lift 2" body lift. 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Radial M/Ts 10000K HID 12" JL W3 Subs in custom box 1000W Alpine mono amp 1F capacitor 6.5" JL mids 4X6 Pioneers in dash 450W Alpine 4 channel Dynomax cat & exhaust
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT chameleon paint, Cadillac 22" wheels
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02-23-2007, 03:14 PM
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#9
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 330
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I had my car lowered 2" and it doesn't make it easier on the knees. Getting out of that thing will be much harder than at stock height.
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02-23-2007, 06:02 PM
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#10
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GLS member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,733
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I think that Alero in the pics looks tight with it combo of rims, doors, and bags.
If you've got a 2 door go ahead and consider doing it, not that many people have.
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02-23-2007, 06:05 PM
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#11
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GLS member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 4,284
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I personally like the Lambo doors, makes it easier to park in tight places too
__________________
2003 2.2 Eco http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2478473 SOLD
1994 Chevy Suburban aka The Zombie Mower 4" Rancho suspension lift 2" body lift. 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Radial M/Ts 10000K HID 12" JL W3 Subs in custom box 1000W Alpine mono amp 1F capacitor 6.5" JL mids 4X6 Pioneers in dash 450W Alpine 4 channel Dynomax cat & exhaust
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT chameleon paint, Cadillac 22" wheels
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02-23-2007, 06:23 PM
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#12
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Let's Play Army!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Lockport, NY
Posts: 8,475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt24
I personally like the Lambo doors, makes it easier to park in tight places too
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ONLY REASON TO DO THAT. IT'S ALSO WHY THEY WERE INVENTED
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black
holy crap, i just farted at work and the whole office stinks!!!!
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RIP to my Alero @ 112000 miles. COD: thrown rod. TOD: 430pm, Dec19, 2011.
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02-23-2007, 06:41 PM
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#13
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GLS member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 4,284
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well if you ever saw my carport you'd be ok with me getting those doors
__________________
2003 2.2 Eco http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2478473 SOLD
1994 Chevy Suburban aka The Zombie Mower 4" Rancho suspension lift 2" body lift. 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Radial M/Ts 10000K HID 12" JL W3 Subs in custom box 1000W Alpine mono amp 1F capacitor 6.5" JL mids 4X6 Pioneers in dash 450W Alpine 4 channel Dynomax cat & exhaust
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT chameleon paint, Cadillac 22" wheels
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02-24-2007, 08:50 PM
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#14
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GX Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Alamogordo, NM
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleN0alero
Why dont you just be a gentlemen and hold the door open for her?
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sorry but I do agree a true man opens the door for ANY lady. No matter how long you have been with her or what ever lame excuse you may have. But yes man door opening is a good thing
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02-24-2007, 10:50 PM
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#15
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GX Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: new orleans/houston
Posts: 75
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its cool and all but alero doors look real huge for a lambo setup! its looks like some back to the future shit!
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02-24-2007, 11:18 PM
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#16
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Regina, Sask
Posts: 350
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i saw a stock sunfire (not a GT) and it was dirty as eff and the opened his doors and they were lambo doors. my buddy and i laughed so hard and just made fun of him because my friend has the same car and it sucks.
__________________
01 Alero GX 3400 swapped
v8 swapped 84 s10
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02-25-2007, 08:37 AM
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#17
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The Drunk
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Goleta, California
Posts: 770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleN0alero
Why dont you just be a gentlemen and hold the door open for her?
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I know logic is tough but lets try this little physics problem... If the doors are too tough for my wife to open then who opens them? If the doors are too tough for the wife to open when who can not drive the car alone? If I take the 4 door Caddy and leave the wife with my 2 slotted Ho, then who can't go anywhere that day?
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02-28-2007, 04:54 PM
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#18
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville IN
Posts: 3,038
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Materials used in this project:
Standard automotive tools -- sockets, ratchets, wrenches
Box wrench
10mm wrench
Screwdriver
Phillips-head screwdriver
Anti-seize compound
Decah® conversion kit, including: - 2 bi-directional pivot assemblies
- Custom-fit wiring harness extensions
- Wire ties
- Gas-door springs
- All required hardware
Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.
Removing the Front Fenders and Extending the Factory Wiring-Harness - To begin installation of the conversion kit, the front fender must be removed in order to gain access to the door hinges and the electrics in the door that controls the lights and door. With the Civic we're working on in this project, you can get plenty of access to the fender bolts by removing the one rear screw (figure A).
- Gently pull the bumper cover back to reveal the horizontal bolt in the center. Remove it, and then also remove the vertical bolt at the very front edge of the fender.
- The fender wells protect the car from water and debris. They are fastened around the outside lip of the fender with push-type retainers. To release the retainers, pry the center pin up with a screwdriver and pop the retainer loose.
- With all of the retainers released, there are usually a couple of fender well bolts to remove at the corners.
- To remove the side skirt, begin by pulling out the two bolts at the fender well and the three retainers underneath. The side skirt retainers are similar to the fender-well-type, but the center pin is unscrewed instead of pried out.
- When all of the retainers have been removed, free the skirt by sliding it towards the front of the car (figure B).
Figure C
Figure D - There are six bolts remaining that secure the fender to the car. Remove them by starting with the two bolts at the bottom and then work your way across the three bolts along the top of the fender (figure C). A ratcheting box-wrench will help you reach the bolt tucked in behind the door. Also, remove the door-checker bolt inside the door-jamb.
- When all of the screws are out, pull the fender free (figure D) and set it aside in a safe place.
- Tip: Rather than taking both fenders off, this project is best performed one side at a time. In that way, you an use the intact fender as reference for the gaps at the door and hood as you reinstall the first fender.
- Next it's time to extend the factory-installed wiring harness to allow for clearance for the Lambo-style door conversions. To extend the harness, you need to first release it by unclipping it inside the door (figure E).
- Safety Alert: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before doing any electrical work on your vehicle.
- The dust cover that protects the wiring is in two pieces that are joined by tape in the middle. Remove the tape, separate the cover in the center (figure F), and slide the first extension through the upper portion of the boot.
Figure E
Figure F
Cut one wire at a time, and strip away about 1/4" of insulation at the end. - Slide the extension onto the stripped wire and crimp it into place.
- Slide the other end of the cut wire down through the upper boot and crimp it to the other end of the extension (figure G).
- Give it a tug test to make sure it's secure.
- Repeat the process for all of the remaining wires in the harness (figure H).
- After all of the electronics in the door have been tested, wrap everything tightly in electrical tape. The wire harness should now be facing up.
Figure G
Figure H
Figure I Vertical-Door Installation
With the fender removed and the wiring work done, work can now begin on installing the door kit. After the conversion is complete, the fender will be reinstalled on the car. - Have a helper hold the door in place as you remove the eight 12mm bolts securing the factory hinges (figure I). If the hinges are not loose when you remove the bolts you may need to use a crowbar to pop the hinges loose.
Figure J
Figure K - Install the hinge assembly using the hardware that comes with the conversion kit (figure J).
- Once the door is aligned, everything gets tightened up -- but first double- and triple-check the door gaps against the passenger side and readjust until the fit is perfect.
- Tighten the hinge bolts down (figure K). Now you're ready to check the sag. The first time you open the door it will sag under its own weight. To compensate, apply some anti-seize compound and adjust the sag screw on the new hinge assembly until the door operates freely.
- To install the door spring, have a helper lift the door to the open position (figure L).
- Slide the bottom of the spring into the hinge socket (figure M) and then thread the top of the shaft all of the way into the upper mount.
- Insert a cotter pin through the hole underneath the socket and bend it over with pliers to lock the spring in place.
- Use the wires ties to secure the harness to the new hinge, and it's
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02-28-2007, 04:55 PM
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#19
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GLS member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville IN
Posts: 3,038
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time to reinstall the fender.
Figure L
Figure M
Figure N
Figure O
Figure P
Before you bolt the fender back down, check to make sure that the new hinges don't rub. If they do, you'll have to do what's called "rolling the fender."
If you have a rub, just pull off the fender and take it to your workbench. Take tin snips and cut expansion slits along the lip. Cut one every inch or so between the upper and lower body line ( figure N). Put on a leather glove and bend the tabs back with your thumb.
The molding on the front of the fender will more than likely interfere with the door opening. Remove the piece of molding, and replace with a carbon-fiber molding that came with the conversion kit ( figure O). Be sure to clean the fender indention well before you apply the new molding.
Now it's time to reinstall the fender, which goes on just like it came off. Line it up with the bolt holes on the top of the fender and make sure the door has clearance.
The bolt holes all have a little play in them, so get them all finger-tight and check the gaps at the front of the door and along the hood.
Adjust the fender as necessary and tighten everything down. Pop the side skirt into place, and tighten all the screws under the car.
Secure the rear corner of the front bumper with the screw that started it all.
Repeat the steps for the other door.
The conversion is now complete. Check the doors for proper operation
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