Underbody/neon Kit Installation Guide

[coldfusion01]

Ok so if your reading this guide, your probaly wondering how to install your brand new neon kit on your car... yeah though so! so let's get started.

First, before we can do anything we need to get the car propped up safetly so that we may work under it... so we have a few options here. If anyone happens to have access to a car lift, use it! Otherwise find some ramp blocks from a local auto shop or walmart to drive ur car up on... otherwise if ur a lil bit cheap and n a hurry, u can drive ur car up on bricks or drive ur car over a dip in ur drive way if you have one and use that to get under your car. (do use your emergency brake though!!!).



Another pic.

Now that we've got the car propped we can pop the hood and check out our battery situation. Most likely all that we'll have to do is crimp a battery ring terminal (that you can find an any local autoshop/walmart) and crimp it to a 14-16 guage wire and attach that to the positive terminal (+) of the battery.



For the negative terminal (-), you need to get a ring connector, crimp it to a 14-16 guage wire (same as the wire you used for the positive (+) terminal), sand off a place somewhere on the body/metal frame of the car (sand it down good and clean to bear metal), and screw the ring connector down tight to the frame with a steel screw. The run this wire into the car the same way you ran the positive line.

Now about 3-6 inchs away form the battery we need to put an inline fuse (with a 10-15 amp fuse) and connect that to the wire comming off the ring terminal (this is to protect you from your self and from shorting/metling all the wiring in your car). Also, DON'T PUT IN THE FUSE YET! If you do, you may risk shorting the battery out on the car or some other wiring. Oh and the picture below, don't worry about where the wire is coming from, that is the type of fuse box u need (you can get it at autozone/walmart), don't worry about the rest.



Now connect another wire to the otherside of the inline fuse (14-16 guage, same as the first strip of battery from the wire) and run this line into your car. You may wire it as I did in the pictures below, or you can feed it through the firewall (but I don't have any pictures right now to help you).



Secure the lines tightly to the car, to make sure they don't get pinched by the door/hinges.



Now that the power lines are in the car, we need to run them into a small distrobution box. You can buy small ones for 14-18 guage at homedepot like below. You will have one box for your positive line (+) and one box for your negative line (-). LABEL THEM NOW! So you don't forget.



Now it's time to run the main wire out of the car (if your using a StreetGlow or other brand of kit which links it's tubes together), or (if your using an Oznium/Flowlighting or other type of kit which tubes plug directly into the control box, this step can be done after you have mounted ur tubes...determining wether all your tubes could reach the ECU before mounting... these kits, the wiring will be run through the water seals).

Ok so here's how to mount your tubes (alero pictured below... tip for alero: mount as close and tight to the flap on the side pieces as you can).

You will need a bunch of 3/4 inch plastic ring cable mounting clamps (homedepot) to mount the tubes, some metal/tapping screws, and some smaller 1/4 inch plastic ring cable mounting clamps (homedopet) to mount the wires. You need to space and mark the holes out before hand, and make sure you don't drill through any gas lines. You really only need 4 for the side tubes, and 3 for the front and rear tubes.

Side tube:



Side tube wiring:



Wheel Well:

The wiring from the side/front/rear tubes can be run inside of the wheel well, this is done by poking the wire up into the wheel well cover from below (for the side tubes), and running the wire up and over the wheel well/taping where necessairy.







If needed, you may also screw the wiring using the plastic clamps to flat pieces of sheet metal like below:



Now run the wiring to the next neon tube, or into the car through a water seal... sometimes you will need to use coat hangers or string to help poke and pull the wire through holes... also tape of the end of wires before you poke them into holes... so not to damage the connectors.

Rear mounting:

Becareful where you mount the rear tube! If you place is to close or near your exhaust, you may melt/damage/or set ur tube/car on fire. So find safe spot to mount this tube, also watch for driling into piping.





Rear wiring:

I just wrapped the wire around. And ran it up between the bumper/trunk/car, and then under the water seal and into the trunk for the flowlighting kit.



Front mounting:

For the front, it can be a little bit harder to find a mounting spot... below, I just mounted the kit to the plastic fender and screwed it through the bottom of the air radiator... probaly bad idea, but I did and it's kinda unsafe for the tube... but it works atleast on my Alero...







Front wiring:

For my Alero, I ran the wiring from the front passenger side, through the wheel well, and through the side of the bumper and out to the front as you can see below:



From here, refer to your manual to see the wiring configurations, follow those dirctions to wire up your control box/ecu. When you sure you have everything wired correctly, place your fuse into the fuse box, and let your glow rip!

If anything goes wrong... don't sue me!!! I hold no responsobility for your actions.... your are using this tutorial at your own risk. So cheers! Enjoy.

Have any questions feel free to ask me! Also if you find anything I left out... it is now very late at night and I'll add it later...

[Silentalero]

Nice write up but word to the wise, take the tube in the front and put it behind the black blocker and aim it just past the edge so you cant see the tube...I cant stress how annoying it is when you can see tubes on an install



same with the side tubes.. put it behind the rails

[SweetNLow]

ya overall those are pretty bad places to install the tubes. if you know what your doing you will be able to hide them properly so you cant see them when they are turned on.

overal i give this HOW-TO a D+

Please, for the love of all things holy - tell me that you did NOT work on your vehicle while it was propped up on 4 little wooden blocks or small bricks.

That is probably the most unsafe way to "jack" up your car that you could possibly imagine. It would take very little force to knock your car off of those blocks. And what happens when it does? It falls on your head and you die. And that is bad.

If you do not have a lift, the ONLY time that you should get under your car to work on it is if you have a jack, coupled with 2 jack stands. You jack up one side of the car and place a stand under it. You can then jack up the other side and place a stand under it as well. You can then place the jack itself in the middle as an extra precautionary support for your car.

NEVER work under your car if you have it sitting on a curb, dip, or those pansy wooden blocks. You're only asking for trouble.

[viciousmalibu]

i agree sweet, D or D+... why did you run the wires inside the car? the only thing that needs to be inside is the switch. first time huh?... it's okay... you are still a good person...lol

[coldfusion01]

Originally posted by viciousmalibu+Jul 3 2006, 08:07 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(viciousmalibu @ Jul 3 2006, 08:07 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>i agree sweet, D or D+... why did you run the wires inside the car? the only thing that needs to be inside is the switch. first time huh?... it's okay... you are still a good person...lol

Quoted post

[/b]

Yeah the wiring was done my very first time a year or so ago -.-'' ... I've learned since then and done better, I was just writing this really quick last night to help some people that had no clue how to install a kit and wire them at the same time. I've actually run a 0 guage wire into the car through the firewall and to a bigger distro block, and made my own fuse panel inside the car for all my electronics/lights.

My first (hidden) switch box:



I have another (bigger/cleaner) one in the dash now.

Originally posted by SweetNLow@Jul 3 2006, 02:55 AM
ya overall those are pretty bad places to install the tubes. if you know what your doing you will be able to hide them properly so you cant see them when they are turned on.

overal i give this HOW-TO a D+

Quoted post

I get a pretty bright glow though, I always can dominate the road with my lighting! I do agree, but I'm to lazy to go back and change it, and don't have any laws telling me I have too. I will do it someday though. But for now I light up the whole Highway and it's fairly hard to see the tubes unless you look for them.

<!--QuoteBegin-steven_mckenz@Jul 3 2006, 03:54 AM
Please, for the love of all things holy - tell me that you did NOT work on your vehicle while it was propped up on 4 little wooden blocks or small bricks.

That is probably the most unsafe way to "jack" up your car that you could possibly imagine. It would take very little force to knock your car off of those blocks. And what happens when it does? It falls on your head and you die. And that is bad.

If you do not have a lift, the ONLY time that you should get under your car to work on it is if you have a jack, coupled with 2 jack stands. You jack up one side of the car and place a stand under it. You can then jack up the other side and place a stand under it as well. You can then place the jack itself in the middle as an extra precautionary support for your car.

NEVER work under your car if you have it sitting on a curb, dip, or those pansy wooden blocks. You're only asking for trouble.

Quoted post

[/quote]

Well the way I had it parked, it wasn't going anywhere and the dip was just to get the holes drilled. Second time was to change the tubes, and I ran the front tires up onto some big bricks and ebraked again. I know what you mean though, but at the time I had nothing.

[viciousmalibu]

hey man, it still looks good, btw you can pick up some ramps for like 15 bucks. i have done quite a few sets of lights, and ramps helped a buttload! i like the way those switches looked tho man, pretty damn cool.

[sound_xtreme]

But for now I light up the whole Highway and it's fairly hard to see the tubes unless you look for them.

oh ya?

[coldfusion01]

Originally posted by sound_xtreme@Jul 3 2006, 11:10 AM

oh ya?

Quoted post

yeah no tubes for u (;

Hey I'm not crazy... the light shines clear across the road, I take picture later :P

[Silentalero]

Originally posted by viciousmalibu@Jul 3 2006, 07:07 AM
i agree sweet, D or D+... why did you run the wires inside the car? the only thing that needs to be inside is the switch. first time huh?... it's okay... you are still a good person...lol

Quoted post

well running the wires inside is actually a better way about it since they are LED tubes and if the wire gets cut from anything on the roadyour screwed, its not like the Gold series tubes and its just a 10awg wire. thats the way i ran my ice led wires because my control module is under where my back seat use to be.

[Silentalero]

ps the NOT seeing the tube thing...do me a favor, turn the lights on, go half a block or even a 1/4 block away take a pic and i guarantee you'll see it

[coldfusion01]

My Flowlighting ECU is in my back seat, I just like having all of my wiring inside of my car so without as much risk of shorting if there are problems, also easier to access.

Oh, well I found a shot I had... kinda shows how bright that kit shines like it is (:

[coldfusion01]

Originally posted by Silentalero@Jul 3 2006, 11:43 AM
ps the NOT seeing the tube thing...do me a favor, turn the lights on, go half a block or even a 1/4 block away take a pic and i guarantee you'll see it

Quoted post

Dude fine, I'll move it later.

[Silentalero]

lol im not attacking you, im just telling you what everybody says

[Pimpalero03]

ur front tube should be higher up the bumper so it doesnt get damdanged. here are where mine were, up above the opening of bumper

[Whitetigerboi83]

i would also recommend buying a small can of primer and a round brush small enough to fit in any of the holes to help combat any rust problems down the line. i use to work for a company that put all the gound effects packeages on doge dokotas and turst me as many holes as we put we put a lot of primer too

[NYorkrider]

I jus read this and Im a lil confused, whats with the fuse u gotta take out goin to the fuse box? my kit hasa line fuse, dont I jus have to run power to the battery and then ground them somewhere and wire a switch y do u have it plugged into a fuse under the hood i thought it was hooked up to ur battery, can someone help a brotha out, ive instaleld neons insides and leds, is this that much diffrent?

[Satsuriku]

not really, as long as you have a 12v source going to the LED's and underglow then its just a matter of hooking up the junction box that you should have gotten, really not that hard