Changing the 2.2l tensioner

[jlong]

Has anyone done this? I replaced the belt about a month ago and now the tensioner is bad. It makes a loud high pitched noise and you can wiggle it with your hand.

It was pretty hard for me to change the belt and I think I need to throw in the towel and take it to a shop. Not sure how I can get a wrench on the tensioner bolt let alone a socket. Unless there is a hole in the fender that allows me to access the bolt on the tensioner.

Any advice or photos would be appreciated!

[jlong]

I do need some advice on this. The tensioner has no tension on it. You can move it up and down with some pressure, it isn't just flopping around. The pulley is a little loose but I don't think the bearings in it are bad. I think I need to replace the whole assembly.

I tried removing the bolt on the tensioner but it doesn't seem to want to come out any further. It also looks like I need to remove the motor mount and either drop or raise the engine just enough to be able to have enough clearance to take the old one off and put the new one on.

The haynes manual is utterly useless!

[Vic28]

I dont really know... but ill be going thru the same thing soon since ill have to remove it for S/C... I change the belt not to long ago and theres really barely space. If you figure something out, let us know. sry I couldnt help ya.

[jlong]

That's ok, thanks for the reply. I am going to call some shops to see what it will cost to replace. If it's a price I think isn't too bad I will just have it done. I really think the only way to do it will be to drop or raise the engine.

If I drop it the fender liner will have to come out and that doesn't look like fun to remove either.

[Vic28]

so you lose the bolt... but its too long and hits the frame?

[jlong]

Here's what I found on a cobalt forum. I can't imagine it's too much different.

-put car on jack stands
-undo the 3 bottom bolts on the rear tranny mount
-remove engine mount(via the 5 bolts under the airbox)
-jakc the engine up from the oil pan, be sure to use a 2x4 or something to distribute the force as to not crack the pan
-once its up high enough to wrap a socket around the bolt, remove the bolt, which i believe is a 15mm, remove it, this will aleviate all the tension in the belt, so the belt will be loose the tensionor will be off
-put new tensionor on, i dont know trq spec

[jlong]

Originally Posted by Vic28

so you lose the bolt... but its too long and hits the frame?

I don't have enough patients to loosen the bolt that much. I can only turn it 1/8 of a turn because of clearance. I could probably get it off but realigning it to get it back on would be impossible

I think I will attempt this myself. I am too cheap not to

[jlong]

Hum... Take a look at this. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...&zmap=ZX362333

[Vic28]

Originally Posted by jlong

Hum... Take a look at this. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...&zmap=ZX362333

well that I used..works wonders... go to autozone and ask for it... lend a tool deal. Im worry about the bolt to take it out, but you already found some good info.

[Cliff8928]

There's only that one bolt holding the tensioner in. It doesn't look too hard from the service manual.

The bolt gets tightened to 33 ft-lb.

[jlong]

Originally Posted by Cliff8928

There's only that one bolt holding the tensioner in. It doesn't look too hard from the service manual.

The bolt gets tightened to 33 ft-lb.

Thanks for the info. I will get on it after work.

[jlong]

Well I just got around to changing it. It was a pita but it's doable without removing the motor mount. I did remove the reservoir and moved the hoses out of the way.

I had to use a pry bar to create just enough clearance between the frame and the engine to squeeze the bolt and tensioner back into place. Once it's seated I used the pry bar to hold it in place and get the bolt started. It took about 30 min to get the bolt started!

[Vic28]

thanks for the pics and info.. Glad you got it working. Ill see how difficult mine would be.