Bleeding Coolant

[ion] C2 · 05-15-2009, 06:50 PM

We don't have a bleeder screw, so what's the best method to bleed the coolant? I have a crapload of air in the lines from an o-ring leak that I fixed yesterday. Temps still like to stick around the 203-210 range (with heater/fans on max)instead of the normal operating temp of 194-196 with heater/fans on 2nd setting.

I've run the car with the coolant cap off idling, raising RPMs a bit, etc. Seems when I go wide open while driving it helps to push the air out of the system, my temps go down to the normal desired temperatures but then go back up. Do I just need to keep driving hard until the temps stay where they should be?

cherrington17 · 05-15-2009, 07:08 PM

i know on the 3400, there is a post w/ a tiny bolt in the top. you have the car running, loosen the bolt, till coolant leaks out, then tighten.

2.4, has to have something similar... i have no idea where though.

CactusWill · 05-15-2009, 07:10 PM

Its been along time since I've looked at a 2.4, like at least 5 years, but enough heat cycles should take care of it. If you just took the air pockets on yesterday, adding coolant as necessary from a cold start over the course of the next week or so should work all the bubbles out.

[ion] C2 · 05-15-2009, 07:16 PM

Ya, figured it'd just take driving under different conditions to get it down. That's what happened when we put the built engine in..

CactusWill · 05-15-2009, 07:30 PM

I dunno man, common sense would just tell me that elevation is the key, look for the highest point in the system, and if nothing is higher than the coolant reservoir cap, than all excess air will find its way there eventually. If there is a higher point in the coolant system than the radiator cap, than I'm sure it can be found, but I am pretty sure there isn't one on the 2.4.

DOHC_tuner · 05-15-2009, 11:34 PM

Did you try to get it flushed yet?

Redog · 05-16-2009, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CactusWill

I dunno man, common sense would just tell me that elevation is the key, look for the highest point in the system, and if nothing is higher than the coolant reservoir cap, than all excess air will find its way there eventually. If there is a higher point in the coolant system than the radiator cap, than I'm sure it can be found, but I am pretty sure there isn't one on the 2.4.

This is exactly what I was thinking.

With the cap off, doesn't bubbles or coolant come out?

Vic28 · 05-16-2009, 01:04 AM

...........

Gr1m · 05-16-2009, 01:40 AM

the system will automatically get rid of the air in the system, it does this when the system pressurizes and will take a day or two of driving to complete.

worknprog.99 · 05-16-2009, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

i know on the 3400, there is a post w/ a tiny bolt in the top. you have the car running, loosen the bolt, till coolant leaks out, then tighten.

2.4, has to have something similar... i have no idea where though.

would that be the little bolt on top of the coolent by pass line on the waterpump side?

because mine constantly runs hot and i wander if its alot of air pockets due to the many times coolent gets drained and put back in

cherrington17 · 05-16-2009, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by worknprog.99

would that be the little bolt on top of the coolent by pass line on the waterpump side?

because mine constantly runs hot and i wander if its alot of air pockets due to the many times coolent gets drained and put back in

yes. from where it says 3400, from the 3, go toward the front bumper and to the left slightly. The straight black post w/ a little bolt head on top. Thats the ticket.

[ion] C2 · 05-16-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gr1m

the system will automatically get rid of the air in the system, it does this when the system pressurizes and will take a day or two of driving to complete.

I don't feel like waiting that long.

I found out the many-member approved method on JBO. That metal coolant line that was giving me troubles with the o-ring leaking is actually the main bleeding line. I have to make sure it's clear for flow (not bent like it is now) and run the car and squeeze the radiator inlet hose coming off the overflow tank, trying to push the fluid through the system and once coolant comes shooting out of that hose, it should be bled.

worknprog.99 · 05-16-2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cherrington17

yes. from where it says 3400, from the 3, go toward the front bumper and to the left slightly. The straight black post w/ a little bolt head on top. Thats the ticket.

leave it to gm to do that lol
my subaru had an automatic realese valve

A57 · 05-16-2009, 05:19 PM

If you let it run witht the cap off to let the air bubbles find it way out is about the best way , but it will take sometime.. or you can drive with the A/C on and let it works it way out while driving...

hope this helps.

worknprog.99 · 05-16-2009, 05:57 PM

this is my last idea to figure out why it runs constantly over half

Gr1m · 05-18-2009, 01:01 AM

if you have air in your coolant lines an air pocket could be sitting near the tstat and would make the car's temp read higher then normal

jayson_waltz · 05-18-2009, 01:07 AM

warm er up, fill with coolant, warm er up, fill with coolant,...

about all you can do is enough heat cycles as far as i know

[ion] C2 · 05-18-2009, 03:18 PM

So how should I flush it? Just open the drainrooster and fill it up with new coolant as the old drains out and then after a while close the drainrooster?

Because this stupid thing just won't bleed.

[ion] C2 · 05-25-2009, 09:04 PM

effing ridiculous. I cable tied the coolant hoses that are near/on the downpipe away from it, and wrapped them in heat shield material. And the coolant temps still end up getting up there (201-210 with all fans and heater on max).

And when I went WOT on the highway and let off, the temps go back down to 190-192, and then creep back up as I cruise. It's so retarded.

I mean I fixed my coolant/air leak, I wrapped the coolant lines around the turbo, and it still likes to run hotter than it should.

Bad99Olds · 05-25-2009, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

effing ridiculous. I cable tied the coolant hoses that are near/on the downpipe away from it, and wrapped them in heat shield material. And the coolant temps still end up getting up there (201-210 with all fans and heater on max).

And when I went WOT on the highway and let off, the temps go back down to 190-192, and then creep back up as I cruise. It's so retarded.

I mean I fixed my coolant/air leak, I wrapped the coolant lines around the turbo, and it still likes to run hotter than it should.

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