A/C Stopped Working Since Last Year

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 09:27 AM

Am stumped and need some direction on what to check first. A/C nor defroster not cooling fans work when a/c turned on.

I looked at what I think are the fuses that control the a/c and they looked good. Don't know how to check the relay.

My first impression was the knobs in the dash that control everything so I grabbed one on eBay and installed it and no better.

The fan works in all speeds and switches from dash, to floor, to defrost but the compressor doesn't come on in any position. Even when the recirculate button is pushed the compressor doesn't come on.

Don't have gauges to check pressures and am trying to keep from spending the money to pay a mechanic to check it out until I'm down to that as the last resort.

Can anybody that is familiar with the system give me some ideas on what can be checked without having to take it to a shop? Thanks gents.

03glgold · 04-25-2014, 09:34 AM

There are the cans if store bought refrigerant with pressure gauges if you really dont want to pay a shop, another option is to find a shop giving free a/c checks but be prepared for them to want to fix it

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 09:37 AM

Thanks. Was thinking that, too. Hoping there are other things that I haven't thought about checking out before I take that step.

rocketfast321 · 04-25-2014, 10:20 AM

Put gauges on it so we can see if you just need to add 134a or see if we have deeper problems

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 11:27 AM

Will do. My buddy is the store manager of a Firestone over here so he'll probably check it and not charge me. I hope!

Can you check the pressures if the compressor will not engage?

Bluestreak · 04-25-2014, 11:28 AM

Get a set of gauges on it. We need to know low and high side pressures to better pinpoint what the problem is. You can get a cheap set of gauges for under $30-$50 at most AC supply shops. They are a very worthwhile investment, because AC systems are quite simple once you know how to connect a set of gauges and read what they're telling you.

Just using the off-the-shelf cans with a cheap low-side gauge won't provide enough information. If it's blowing air but not getting cold, there's a problem within the system itself - a refrigerant leak, a clogged orifice or bad TXV, or possibly a failing/failed compressor.

negolien · 04-25-2014, 11:34 AM

It was $100 here to do a refill at my firestone then extra for every ounce over a certain amount

All the shops rape you for A/C work.

zzyzzx · 04-25-2014, 11:40 AM

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.

Look here, it's really all you need, if you have the V6 (will work on the 4 cylinder engine as well):
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34167

Adding r133a is easier than an oil change. Probably at the difficulty level of changing the air filter.

I bet you have a leak and are just low of r134a. Amazon sells 12 packs of 12oz cans cheap enough:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-6312-...dp/B00C873Y60/
Buy some now before it gets hot. The price only goes up from here until next winter.

I put at least 2 cans of these in my Alero last summer. If I could find the leak I would fix it, but can not even with an electronic detector and various dye packs.

This thread probably belongs in the Common Questions & Troubleshooting area. The only Alero specific info you need is if you have the V6 since you need to know that the compressor is supposed to be always on (when turned on) and you need a longer hose to add r134a (unless you want to burn your arm).

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.

Look here, it's really all you need, if you have the V6 (will work on the 4 cylinder engine as well):
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34167

Adding r143a is easier than an oil change. Probably at the difficulty level of changing the air filter.

I bet you have a leak and are just low of r134a. Amazon sells 12 packs of 12oz cans cheap enough:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-6312-...dp/B00C873Y60/
Buy some now before it gets hot. The price only goes up from here until next winter.

I put at least 2 cans of these in my Alero last summer. If I could find the leak I would fix it, but can not even with an electronic detector and various dye packs.

2000 with the 3.4 V6

zzyzzx · 04-25-2014, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbailey

2000 with the 3.4 V6

I still think you are low on r134a. Likely places for a leak are the compressor and the high and low r134a ports (especially the high side port). Yes, I have a 1999 V6 and may just replace the compressor and hope that stops my leakage. For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

I still think you are low on r134a. Likely places for a leak are the compressor and the high and low r134a ports (especially the high side port). Yes, I have a 1999 V6 and may just replace the compressor and hope that stops my leakage. For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.

Good point. That may be what I wind up doing. Am actually getting ready to sell it so don't want to dump a bunch of money in it that I'll never see.

Bluestreak · 04-25-2014, 01:32 PM

Never use anything with STOP LEAK in it, it will ruin your system, and the only way to fix it is to replace the ENTIRE system. Most reputable shops have stop-leak detectors, and they won't hook their machines to your car if they detect it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

For now if I am only using 2-3 can's of r134a that is not a big deal to me since I assume that the leak will only get worse and would increase my chances of finding exactly where the leak is.

Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

Also, when hooking up to your system, be careful not to over-depress the Schrader valve. They're easily damaged and a very common leak point when serviced by novices.

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluestreak

Never use anything with STOP LEAK in it, it will ruin your system, and the only way to fix it is to replace the ENTIRE system. Most reputable shops have stop-leak detectors, and they won't hook their machines to your car if they detect it.

Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

Also, when hooking up to your system, be careful not to over-depress the Schrader valve. They're easily damaged and a very common leak point when serviced by novices.

Good points! Probably gonna take it to my buddy at Firestone. He said he'd just charge me $20 to hook it up to his system and check it out. Probably not a bad deal.

zzyzzx · 04-25-2014, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluestreak

Make sure you're injecting some PAG oil when you're refilling your system. The oil is circulated with the refrigerant, and if the refrigerant escapes, so does the oil. No oil = bad juju.

I am! PAG150 with ICE32, to be specific.

I inject it into my charging hose assembly then chase it with r134a. Having said that, if the oil really were escaping with the refrigerant I would have found the leak by now. Except maybe on the compressor. It's filthy since my LIM leak leaked all over it.

negolien · 04-25-2014, 03:21 PM

Never heard anyone mention adding oil with refrigerant recharges before.

Bluestreak · 04-25-2014, 03:37 PM

They make special tools for it. I have one of these. I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems.

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 04:00 PM

Checked the fuses and good there. Checked the relay and it clicked when power put to it so that's good. Put power to the compressor clutch and it clicked so that's good. Guess the next thing to check now is the Freon level when I can get it to my buddy's shop.

negolien · 04-25-2014, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluestreak

They make special tools for it. I have one of these. I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems.

Nice Still I seen alot of people add Freon to a car a/c system, heard a lot of suggestions on here for refills and never heard any of them mention the necessity of adding oil.

dbailey · 04-25-2014, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluestreak

They make special tools for it. I have one of these. I'm Ford factory, ASE, and EPA 609 certified, and I own an HVAC service company. I've serviced one or two AC systems.

You da man! Does it sound like low Freon to you after what I said I did checking the fuses and making sure the relay clicks and that the compressor clutch clicked? Thanks.

rocketfast321 · 04-25-2014, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzyzzx

Which engine? What year?

Yes, this makes a difference because the 4 cylinder engine uses a compressor that cycles on and off like it does on most cars. The V6 uses a compressor that is on all the time when the A/C or defrost is on (modulates internally).

Personally, I do not trust and compressor seals past a certain age, irregardless of mileage.

The I4 doesn't cycle, it's the same style as the v6. And as long as a a/c system is ran for 10 to 20 mins a week you will not have a problem.