10-10-2008, 03:50 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 22
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Belt tensioner
I apologize for posting twice in a week, but I'm at the end of my rope. I needed to replace the alternator on my 01 Alero. That's easy enough. However, I needed to loosen the serpentine belt in order to get to it. Fine. It took me a bit to find the belt tensioner, but I found it and started loosening the bolt with my ratchet. As I loosened it, the little metal nub that holds it steady came out of its groove, the belt tensioner popped out of place and the belt was slack. I replaced the alternator. Now- how do I get the blasted belt back on???? More to the point, how do I get the belt tensioner into the position where I can put the belt back on? It seems like I would need either superhuman strength or a square shaped socket for my ratchet. The Haynes manual and the internet have been utterly useless. The Auto Zone rents out what is basically just a big ratchet set and calls it a serpentine belt tensioner tool. No one knows what I'm talking about. This is a picture of the part I'm referring to:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/SerpentineB...BT00014/681717
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10-10-2008, 04:20 PM
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#2
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GX Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 22
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Never mind- I figured it out
It was sort of like a crossword puzzle. Stare at it long enough and the answer will come to you. Thanks.
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10-10-2008, 07:00 PM
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#3
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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You didn't have to take the tensioner off. They is a spot were you can put a 3/8 ratchet to push the tensioner. Then you pull the belt off. Put the tesioner back on. There is a groove for the spring so you can't really do it wrong.
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10-10-2008, 07:15 PM
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#4
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GL Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 633
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AutoZone or any other parts store makes a handy tool just for that purpose. Some ratches won't fit between the tensioner and the frame(on the V6 model anyway) the tool is pretty much just a flat piece of metal with a 3\8" square piece of metal welded to it. Works great.
__________________
*TOTALED* - 2000 Olds Alero Sedan - 3.4L 3400 V6 - WAI - Sony Head Unit -
NEW RIDE - 2005 Buick LaCrosse - 3.8L 3800 Series III V6 - WAI - Muffler/Resonator removed -
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10-10-2008, 11:45 PM
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#5
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyballs_69
You didn't have to take the tensioner off. They is a spot were you can put a 3/8 ratchet to push the tensioner. Then you pull the belt off. Put the tesioner back on. There is a groove for the spring so you can't really do it wrong.
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I striped mine
I thought it would rachet or something, I kept going back and forth with it.
I have a replacement, just never got around to putting it in
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33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
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10-11-2008, 12:01 AM
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#6
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redog
I striped mine
I thought it would rachet or something, I kept going back and forth with it.
I have a replacement, just never got around to putting it in
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A pry bar works just as well.
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10-11-2008, 12:07 AM
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#7
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Captain Funpark
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vincennes, IN
Posts: 7,034
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lol I only paid $25 for my new tensioner.... I ended up having to spend $400 to get it fixed though cause for some reason, the threads broke in the motor.... grrr....
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10-11-2008, 12:16 AM
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#8
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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You payed $400 to get broken bolts pulled out of the block?
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10-11-2008, 12:18 AM
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#9
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Captain Funpark
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vincennes, IN
Posts: 7,034
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it was the threads inside the block that broke.... they had to seal it in and they also did a couple other things for me... I also got a window regulator replaced.... so really I only paid 200 or so for the tensionor.....
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10-11-2008, 12:23 AM
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#10
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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A drill and an easy out works wonders for broken bolts.
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10-11-2008, 12:41 AM
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#11
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Captain Funpark
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vincennes, IN
Posts: 7,034
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It wasn't the bolt! It was the mount in the motor! the bolt was perfectly fine.
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10-11-2008, 09:57 AM
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#12
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Trying to get it together
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: somewhere
Posts: 617
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Read the cavalier's post again guys, The bolt wasn't broken the thread is damage on the block. there is no easy way to drill and tap the hole when the engine is still in the car, even using a 90* drill.
Cavalier the tensioner assembly has a guide pin for you to line up to the block during install. If that is lined up the bolt should go in easily. Once that is in use a 15mm socket or a tension tool to install the belt. This could be rented from any part store.
__________________
MODS:???
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10-11-2008, 04:03 PM
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#13
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Its Beer Thirty
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,259
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Yeah I read it wrong, the hole was striped out.
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10-11-2008, 04:17 PM
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#14
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Captain Funpark
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vincennes, IN
Posts: 7,034
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lol it's cool. I used the correct tool and even had my friend there who is a mech student at VU..... it was just a fluke that happened.... We had no idea what happened or why it did. But oh well. She is fixed and running smooth. Now I just need to get a new window regulator and clips for my drivers window. lol, everytime I roll the window up, it tilts slightly forward. Sometimes it bounces a bit and doesn't roll up all the way...........
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10-12-2008, 01:01 AM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Grove, IL
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super white alero1
Read the cavalier's post again guys, The bolt wasn't broken the thread is damage on the block.
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The bolt actually goes into the cylinder head, not the block.
__________________
Cliff Scott
2004 Alero GX w/sport pkg - Sold, living somewhere in WI now.
2011 Saab 9-5 Turbo4 M6
2004 Corvette Convertible M6
1994 Chevy Beretta - Quad4/M5
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