Driver's Side CV Axle

mmorello82 · 10-20-2011, 11:53 AM

I have a driver's side outter C/V joint clicking and I am going to replace the Axle this weekend. I went through the how to archive and couldn't find anything about this. Also tried to find the thread "everything you need to know about your Alero" and couldn't find it either. Has anyone ever done one and have tips for me, or maybe a linkto a thread about this? Thanks Guys!

a.graham52 · 10-20-2011, 04:28 PM

undo the 36mm (i think) nut on the axle shaft. make sure the axle shaft will push through the bearing at this point and isnt stuck. then undo your ball joint from the knuckle. this will give you room to pull the knuckle outwards and get that side of the cv shaft out. next take a prybar and gently pry your cv shaft out of the trans if nessasary. i belive there are some good key placdes to pry from. make sure the snap ring comeso ut with the cv shaft and make sure when you installed the new one you the snap ring seats.

zzyzzx · 10-20-2011, 05:05 PM

I've done axles 4 times (not on an Alero though). All 4 times the hardest parts were unstaking the axle nut, and removing the axle from the hub (and installing the new one in the hub). I've used both rebuilt and new replacement axles and will be using new ones only in the future. On the Alero, at least the V6 version it looks easier to do than other cars I have done in that it's not crowded near where the axles go into the transmission.

Also, I replace axles in pairs. They are wearing parts.

a.graham52 · 10-20-2011, 09:08 PM

these axle nuts arnt staked on. and i reuse them all the time. however if probably your new axle comes with a nut. also MAKE SURE TO TORQUE THAT AXLE NUT TO 284 FTLBS. that spec sounds extremly high but i checked 1999-2003 malibu and aleros and the specs all the same. how ever in 2003 and 2004 theres a first designed nut that gets torqued to 284 ft lbs and a secound design nut that gets torqued to 173 ft lbs depending on what nut you have. i think 284 is kinda high but thats what gm calls for.

mmorello82 · 10-20-2011, 11:44 PM

thanks for the help guys!

kwhauck · 10-21-2011, 01:17 AM

A custom welded slide hammer does wonders for making the removal of axles easier.....

falloutboy · 01-14-2012, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.graham52

these axle nuts arnt staked on. and i reuse them all the time. however if probably your new axle comes with a nut. also MAKE SURE TO TORQUE THAT AXLE NUT TO 284 FTLBS. that spec sounds extremly high but i checked 1999-2003 malibu and aleros and the specs all the same. how ever in 2003 and 2004 theres a first designed nut that gets torqued to 284 ft lbs and a secound design nut that gets torqued to 173 ft lbs depending on what nut you have. i think 284 is kinda high but thats what gm calls for.

This torque makes your wheel bearing work good --> long lasting, or bad --> fails soon.

The new one piece nut design with he new torque worked wonders for my bearings

irondiezl3 · 01-16-2012, 04:21 AM

im about to change both mine out is there something i need other than the axles i bought? anything like a seal or the snap ring? or just axles?

a.graham52 · 01-16-2012, 08:18 AM

if your axle seals (located on your trans) arnt leaking then no. you dont needanything else. would be a good time to check your front end and also your front brakes while you got everything apart. then u might need something.

zzyzzx · 01-16-2012, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.graham52

if your axle seals (located on your trans) arnt leaking then no.

I also did not change my axle seals, but if I had to do it again, I would.

irondiezl3 · 01-16-2012, 11:21 PM

where can u get axle seals from? i dont see them on parts stores websites is it dealer only?

irondiezl3 · 01-16-2012, 11:43 PM

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-3

a.graham52 · 01-17-2012, 08:23 AM

all i can say is if there not leaking (dripping) then dont mess with them.

irondiezl3 · 02-11-2012, 10:39 PM

had both new axles put in new not reman. everything seems good except when u put car in drive or reverse it clicks on hard when u first hit the gas it sounds and feels like its the axle not catching something inside the tranny. but once it does that it drives fine until u go to drive or reverse again. so it only does it the frist time you go in and out of gear then nothing. any idea wtfffff that means?

a.graham52 · 02-11-2012, 11:27 PM

did u fo it urself? If someone did it for u then take it back. If u did it urself then double check ur work. double check anything u took off. Make sure ur cv joints snaped into the trans. To test this grab ur cv cup (the metal part, not the rubber boot) at the trans and give it a firm tug outwords. Should NOT come out of the trans. Did u take the brakes off? all the bolts tight? Did u sepedrate the ball joint? Make sure thats tight. how are ur control arm bushings? possible to have a bad one and the arm is slapping the cradle...

irondiezl3 · 02-11-2012, 11:42 PM

it was a shop since its so wet cold and snowing finally out here. monday first thing im going there. i saw him do alot of it everything looked good i was even going to change out my baljoints while it was apart but he said they looked very good. after i heard the noise i checked under the car it seemed good. monday i can only hope he can figure it out its driving me crazy!

zzyzzx · 02-27-2012, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a.graham52

all i can say is if there not leaking (dripping) then dont mess with them.

Yea, but what happens when you replace your axles, and then the new axle drips because your old axle seals are worn? Do you really want to take that chance?

irondiezl3 · 03-01-2012, 12:58 PM

it was bad axles bought new ones from advance now its perfect

a.graham52 · 03-01-2012, 05:51 PM

sweet deal.