04-12-2009, 11:14 PM
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#21
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natedawg9640
it's not if you have the resources to do it... gotta paint it though and not many people can do that themselves... so they are stuck paying a shop to do it... which is more expensive that tradeing trunk lids.
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implying that you would have to paint the whole trunk lid couldnt paint just the sanded down spots?
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04-12-2009, 11:17 PM
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#22
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickAlero2000
Agreed. Like 25lb test should do it. ("Test" is how fishing line strength is measured, the higher the number the stronger the test.)
Also, use some heat.
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lol at explaining fishing line
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04-12-2009, 11:22 PM
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#23
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: northern wisconsin
Posts: 2,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worknprog.99
implying that you would have to paint the whole trunk lid couldnt paint just the sanded down spots?
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good luck with that approach. it's not like doing drywall. you could paint just the sanded spots... but you have to clear the whole thing anyway...
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04-12-2009, 11:28 PM
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#24
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natedawg9640
good luck with that approach. it's not like doing drywall. you could paint just the sanded spots... but you have to clear the whole thing anyway...
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true. how big are the holes anyway?
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04-12-2009, 11:30 PM
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#25
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GLS member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 1,304
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1/4-1/3 inch maybe
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04-12-2009, 11:44 PM
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#26
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterider00
1/4-1/3 inch maybe
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i think with care and the right things you could get a erfect match without paining the whole thing.. just my opinion
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04-13-2009, 10:38 AM
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#27
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 523
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good luck with that dude. Do the whole trunk and be happy that you wont have to fix your half ass job later. My god, paint the little holes, wow you obviously have never done anykind of body work or painting before.
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04-13-2009, 10:42 AM
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#28
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightie
good luck with that dude. Do the whole trunk and be happy that you wont have to fix your half ass job later. My god, paint the little holes, wow you obviously have never done anykind of body work or painting before.
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so when i fix my rotted hood, i gotta repaint the entire hood?
__________________
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04-13-2009, 11:00 AM
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#29
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate's Alero
so when i fix my rotted hood, i gotta repaint the entire hood?
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Spot repainting CAN be done, but it is rather tricky. Colour matching is a lot harder to do, as the rest of the area could possibly have some fading. On a small area like a trunk, it would be SOOOO much easier repainting the entire trunk. That way you have no colour matching trouble, and as was said on here before, you can then clearcoat teh entire trunk which you would have to do anyway. I'd say the same thing goes for a hood. It would just be easier in the end to do the entire panel.
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04-13-2009, 11:03 AM
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#30
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 523
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if you have a rotted hood I would just get a new one without a spoiler. If you really want to do it right. weld the holes or fiberglass from the underneath. then fill with body filler, then finish with glazing putty. Then you want to prime with an epoxy based primer, paint and then clear. That my friend is how you do it the Wrightie way. hehe
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04-13-2009, 11:03 AM
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#31
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Now a Ford Traitor.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenland
Posts: 6,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightie
if you have a rotted hood I would just get a new one without a spoiler. If you really want to do it right. weld the holes or fiberglass from the underneath. then fill with body filler, then finish with glazing putty. Then you want to prime with an epoxy based primer, paint and then clear. That my friend is how you do it the Wrightie way. hehe
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__________________
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04-13-2009, 11:11 AM
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#32
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GL Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightie
if you have a rotted hood I would just get a new one without a spoiler. If you really want to do it right. weld the holes or fiberglass from the underneath. then fill with body filler, then finish with glazing putty. Then you want to prime with an epoxy based primer, paint and then clear. That my friend is how you do it the Wrightie way. hehe
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Where does one purchase a new HOOD with a spoiler?? I checked Ebay and couldn't even find one on there.
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04-13-2009, 11:38 AM
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#33
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worknprog.99
so i was considering taking off the spoiler also .. but i was considering not having one.. how would you get rid of the holes?
would you like out a plate underneith and then fill the holes with filling compound sand and paint blend?
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grind down around the holes to bare metal. weld the holes, grind down smooth, weld them again if there are still pin holes. then when you got that all done, put some filler over it, sand with 320 until it seems nice and smooth, finish with 600 and then you gotta paint
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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04-13-2009, 12:42 PM
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#34
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto
Posts: 523
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I am not gonna waste my time here. rock on dudes!!!!
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04-13-2009, 01:25 PM
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#35
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightie
I am not gonna waste my time here. rock on dudes!!!!
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i know where you are coming from man an yes it will look better if you do the whole thing once. but to defend myself a little i have experence with painting and body work and i know it can be done but it will be harder and not as easy lol
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04-13-2009, 01:31 PM
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#36
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheman1188
grind down around the holes to bare metal. weld the holes, grind down smooth, weld them again if there are still pin holes. then when you got that all done, put some filler over it, sand with 320 until it seems nice and smooth, finish with 600 and then you gotta paint
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no....
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04-13-2009, 01:50 PM
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#37
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worknprog.99
no....
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ok...... dont ask how you would go about filling in the holes then. LOL
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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04-13-2009, 09:49 PM
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#38
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The Aleromod PITA
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Carolina University, GVegas, NC
Posts: 1,852
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Wait, what? Rotted hood???
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04-13-2009, 10:40 PM
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#39
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheman1188
ok...... dont ask how you would go about filling in the holes then. LOL
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lol its just that way sounded like more work than needed haha
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