what should i do next?

I got a 2.4l 5-speed and i have and intake, and i got a new muff, and i was wondering what would be a good investment next. underdrive and alt pullys or cam swap if ya got any helpful hints pass them on

cam swap, if you're keep it naturally aspirated a header, full 2.5" exhaust, after all that a 59MM TB perhaps

a cam swap aaaaaaa doesn't that void my warrenty. but if i did do it whats a good cam shaft i am new this is new for me

Here is the thread about the secret cam swap, Oldsman tells you the two cams you need as well as all the gaskets you'll need and their part numbers:
http://invision.aleromod.com/index.php?showtopic=670

Getting the INTAKE cam involves going to a junkyard and looking for any vehicle from 1995 that has the 2.3L QUAD4, and it HAS to be from 1995.

Getting the EXHAUST cam involves looking in a junkyard for any vehicle made from 1990-1994 that has the 2.3L QUAD4...

Originally posted by aleropimp1@Dec 17 2003, 09:59 PM
a cam swap aaaaaaa doesn't that void my warrenty. but if i did do it whats a good cam shaft i am new this is new for me

Cam swap voids your warranty if they find out about it....

throttle body voids your warranty if they find out it's a ported stock piece....

of course they have to prove it at fault, but still... if you mod be prepared to do your own work instead of the dealership.

If you cant change your oil, you probably shouldnt be performing a cam swap :P

[Oldsman]

another good mod is the UR crank pulley. If you are looking for things that don't void your warranty then you have the max of what you can do.

Originally posted by Oldsman@Dec 18 2003, 01:03 AM
another good mod is the UR crank pulley. If you are looking for things that don't void your warranty then you have the max of what you can do.

I went to a 2.3 HO pulley.. if you're intested I have my UR pulley available.

I was worried that the UR pulley was bunnyin' w/ the balance of things. It did on our all motor CRX. So yeh slight downgrade to the 2.3HO pulley.

Aftermarket aluminum crank pullies don't have damping systems on them (just a rubber ring between one half that mounts on the crank and the other half that is the actual pully) and it CAN cause bearings to throw out because of this fact...

Originally posted by Final-Reality@Dec 19 2003, 12:25 AM
Aftermarket aluminum crank pullies don't have damping systems on them (just a rubber ring between one half that mounts on the crank and the other half that is the actual pully) and it CAN cause bearings to throw out because of this fact...

Thank you for the words that I did not find.

My reasons exactly right there.

[Fast Eddie]

don't the balance shafts make up for that? that's what I've been told

Nah the A/C & Altenator pullies and the belt spinning cause vibrations and thats why the crank pully has a damper, balance shafts are designed to cancel out the overall vertical shaking forces inherit in inline-4 engines.

Ever drive, say, an inline-6 engine and then an inline-4 right after? The 4 sounds and feels so much more angry and thrasy in comparison when pushed hard..

SO WILL THIS LIGHT WIEGHT PULLY MESS UP MY CAR IS IT EVEN WORTH PUTTING ON AND DOES THAT H3 OR WHAT EVER IS THE UPGRADE WILL THAT MESS MY CAR UP TO AND HOW MUCH DOES IT COST

Don't type in all caps, it's bunnying annoying.

Light weight pullies are IMO not really worth the money & time to install them. And yes there's a better chance you could throw a bearing with an un-damped crank pully installed

And I don't know what you're asking when you refer to H3, your english is terrible.

i meant 2.3HO pulley

another question on the cam swap, will it change the sound of my motor at all. Also how much will it cost to do this came swap and i will do all my own work.

[Oldsman]

for money wise the 2.3 pulley is cheaper. but far as vibration, there are several people using the UR pulley with no probs. The chances of the A/C and alternator causing enough vibration to cause a bearing to go is very slim chance.

[Oldsman]

hey guys read this.........

4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When motor failures occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

6) "Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?"

This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is that our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the total service life you can expect from your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels.

Hopefully that clears up somethings for you guys.

ya it does thanks a bunch :thumbsup: