07-03-2013, 08:54 PM
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#1
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: canada
Posts: 74
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resistor mounting
were have you guys put the resistor for the rear turn signal, I also don't want to take the rear bumper off to find a good spot.
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07-03-2013, 09:02 PM
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#2
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: indy
Posts: 8,411
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Make it small enough to where it just sits against the tail light. Thats what fisdad did.
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Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
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Originally Posted by Oldsnut
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07-03-2013, 09:37 PM
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#3
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GX Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 179
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What Fisdad did may be good enough, but do consider it's a nice heating element against the plastic tail light assembly *EEK!!*
Do also consider that you don't have to mount it AT the tail light itself ... just on the wiring to it.
I'd still mount it securely to the metal of the body and put some heat sink compound between it and the metal. But I'm an olde phart 'tronicist, and can't stand a heat producing element that's there to waste voltage and current sitting by such a massive heat sink without USING said heat sink *grins*
RwP
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07-03-2013, 09:45 PM
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#4
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: canada
Posts: 74
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well they they have built in heat sinks on them but what kind of compound were you thinking of sounds easier than drilling and tapping also im kind of leaning towards putting them in the trunk now that I look at it?
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07-03-2013, 09:50 PM
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#5
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GX Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bossier City, LA
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You'd still have to drill and tap to physically mount them, unless you used some heat sink adhesive .. NOT recommended IMO.
In the trunk is a great idea.
BTW - You can use self-drilling self-tapping screws, chuck'em into a socket on the end of your power drill and drill/tap away.
The heat sink compound I use is the good old white stuff ... http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=31C4127&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv=|pcrid|20115735021|plid| . There's several other places that sell it, that was just the first with a picture in Google.
Far as that's concerned, RatShack usually sells the white stuff, Arctic Silver, and Arctic Silver's Ceramique (the adhesive kind).
RwP
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07-03-2013, 09:51 PM
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#6
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: canada
Posts: 74
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I c
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07-03-2013, 10:03 PM
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#7
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GLS member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: indy
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I dont think its up against the tail light but it is within the wiring and just sits there.
__________________
S. . .L. . . E . . .E. . .P. . .Y. . .IS A TRAITOR--HE GOT BORED SO HE SOLD ME AFTER HAVING AN AFFAIR WITH A RICE ROCKET
Oldsnut is my Hero!
Meet Destiny, shes a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero GLS, F40 6MT swap. (#2 of 3)
2/24/14 - 200,000 miles body/motor. 22,300 on F40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldsnut
He would Plasti Dip his pecker if he could.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tipnitty
A girl touched my Pee Pee. So you can say things are getting pretty serious for me.
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07-04-2013, 12:30 AM
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#8
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I do what I want to Sheep & Goats
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Uranus
Posts: 851
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I have a resistor on all 4 corners of my car. They do get hot, and til a few weeks ago I had just spliced them in and they were dangling wherever. I zip tied them neatly to the wire loom and put electrical tape around the front two. The rears are tucked behind the tails and after years of running this way, heat has never been a problem.
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My screen name should be changed to Jizzdaddy. I was anally raped by flying monkeys and loved it. I promise to never threaten anyones daughters again because I know it will result in my ahoe being severely widened. - Did Andy just say that he wants to fk my ahoe... ewww. Sorry old man, but you're not my type.
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07-04-2013, 12:36 AM
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#9
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GX Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: canada
Posts: 74
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are they the Orange ones with the heat sink fins on em?
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07-05-2013, 01:37 AM
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#10
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GX Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Bossier City, LA
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If they have the fins, then the thermal rating presumes free air around those fins, not taped into a harness. Taping into a harness has two drawbacks that may not show up immediately (read: We're fighting crap like that NOW on these just-barely-teenaged cars). 1) It can degrade the insulation of the wiring it's taped to, 2) It can overheat because there's not enough air around to keep the resistor cool enough.
The Alero has intelligent tail lights. Ask a Malibu or Cutlass owner about the circuit boards and how the lamps melt the taillamp assemblies to where you can't get the bulbs in and out (!!!) Or check some of the older center high mount tail lights - for instance, in my Cougar, in the yard, about 75% will have melted housings due to the heat from the lamps. And then consider the reason you use the resistor is to waste the extra current that the LED's don't use ... so you're producing about the same heat as the original bulb did! (Might as well go incandescent IMO for that, for a DD. Again, for show cars, different story.)
But anyway - just things to keep in mind. There's a LOT of things you CAN do, but the recommended way would be to mount the resistors to the chassis.
(Actually, the RECOMMENDED way would be to replace the turn signal flasher with one that's LED compatible ... but that's quite a pain in the gluteus maximus due to how the flasher and hazard switch are integrated in these cars. Le sigh.)
RwP
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07-05-2013, 02:05 AM
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#11
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I do what I want to Sheep & Goats
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Uranus
Posts: 851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrey1990
are they the Orange ones with the heat sink fins on em?
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Yes they are. And I meant that I put electrical tape around the wiring only. The resistor itself is just zip tied so it won't just dangle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP
If they have the fins, then the thermal rating presumes free air around those fins, not taped into a harness. Taping into a harness has two drawbacks that may not show up immediately (read: We're fighting crap like that NOW on these just-barely-teenaged cars). 1) It can degrade the insulation of the wiring it's taped to, 2) It can overheat because there's not enough air around to keep the resistor cool enough.
The Alero has intelligent tail lights. Ask a Malibu or Cutlass owner about the circuit boards and how the lamps melt the taillamp assemblies to where you can't get the bulbs in and out (!!!) Or check some of the older center high mount tail lights - for instance, in my Cougar, in the yard, about 75% will have melted housings due to the heat from the lamps. And then consider the reason you use the resistor is to waste the extra current that the LED's don't use ... so you're producing about the same heat as the original bulb did! (Might as well go incandescent IMO for that, for a DD. Again, for show cars, different story.)
But anyway - just things to keep in mind. There's a LOT of things you CAN do, but the recommended way would be to mount the resistors to the chassis.
(Actually, the RECOMMENDED way would be to replace the turn signal flasher with one that's LED compatible ... but that's quite a pain in the gluteus maximus due to how the flasher and hazard switch are integrated in these cars. Le sigh.)
RwP
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Mine is a DD. I've had these resistors in and driving for around 20,000 miles now without issue. Not that what you are saying doesn't make sense or is inaccurate, but my experience has been different. Also, lights are cheap if they start to melt or warp I will just buy new ones again... That's my two cents.
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My screen name should be changed to Jizzdaddy. I was anally raped by flying monkeys and loved it. I promise to never threaten anyones daughters again because I know it will result in my ahoe being severely widened. - Did Andy just say that he wants to fk my ahoe... ewww. Sorry old man, but you're not my type.
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10-18-2014, 12:03 AM
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#12
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GL Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Williamsburg
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP
(Actually, the RECOMMENDED way would be to replace the turn signal flasher with one that's LED compatible ... but that's quite a pain in the gluteus maximus due to how the flasher and hazard switch are integrated in these cars. Le sigh.)
RwP
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Is there a diagram or something to go by? Wanted to led my lights, and would like to go with the flasher replace instead of putting in resistors or buying the hyperflash corrector harness.
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1999 Alero GLS, 3400, 4T45E, current mods: WAI with Spectre HPR cone filter, VVME 55w 8000k HID kit
275,000 miles as of 05-14-2015 at 1559 est (3:59 pm)
Planned mods: F body front brake upgrade, ported UIM, LX9 top swap, ported exhaust mans, performance cam. Eventually, turbo or supercharger.
1999 Olds Bravada, 4300 Vortec v6, 4L60E. Current mods (on it when I bought it):
75mm ported throttle body, NGK stage 1 plugs, stage 1 heads.
Planned mods: injector upgrade, exhaust headers
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10-18-2014, 01:12 AM
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#13
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Premier V.I.P. Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Ferdinand Indiana
Posts: 2,742
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This has all been covered before. There is even a thread with pictures! I will toss in my 2 cents while I'm here. I went LED once for the main lighting on the tails, once you buy some quality dual voltage bulbs and wire in your resistors so everything works right, then stand back and look at the riced out crap lighting you have its not worth it. The way the incandescent bulbs reflect around inside the housing and 'layer' the look of the background looks tons better then a bunch of little led's tossing around direct bits of light. and just shining strait out at you.
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2016 Chevy SS, Jet Black
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