Capacitor voltage low... - Page 2

lonnie · 07-07-2009, 12:41 PM

Hosnestly if you aren't in to competition why even bother upgrading the Big 3? I run 600wrms with a 1.5farad cap feed with size 1/0 ga wire on stock alternator and a three year old battery with no issues. I just think thats a bit much to go through for a non competition system.

Again I repeat that this is my opinion...before anyone goes off in here...LOL!

mach3 · 07-07-2009, 01:08 PM

I would agree. I'm running 3 amps with 400 WRMS each and 2 caps and this setup was enough for every day driving and I mean really pushing them hard. Upgrades are great for performacne and piece of mind but realistically it's an over kill. I would suggest only upgrade if you clearly see that it's causing problems with everything stock.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

Hosnestly if you aren't in to competition why even bother upgrading the Big 3? I run 600wrms with a 1.5farad cap feed with size 1/0 ga wire on stock alternator and a three year old battery with no issues. I just think thats a bit much to go through for a non competition system.

Again I repeat that this is my opinion...before anyone goes off in here...LOL!

Fi-Alero · 07-07-2009, 01:54 PM

Put a multimeter on your battery and see what voltage it reads. If it is low too, something could be wrong with your alt. If it reads 14v or so, then your cap could have a bad ground. Also check your connection in your fuse holder.

Caps are EXTREMELY useful in car audio btw.

Cashdollar2009 · 07-07-2009, 03:40 PM

Okay okay, my bad, when the car is running i'm reading 14.0 volts. I have not done the "Big 3" yet but plan to this summer. And by pulling power, i am using a budget setup. My uncle gave me the two 15" Petra Prowler subs, i'm using an 800 watt max/350rms Visonik V308XT amplifier, a 5.0 farad Power Acoustik capacitor, and 4 gauge installbay wiring. The under hood fuse is only a 60amp, and i'm running a stock alternator and everything. I went to a parts-o-rama/car show/audio competition in Butler a few weeks back, hit a 141.5 in dB drag, no bs, couldn't believe it, the girls reset it and then hit a 139.8 the second run 30 seconds later. I am looking to add an MA Audio 12 in a custom box build for the two 15's and the 12, with the 15's sealed as they are now, and the 12'" ported. But i'm guessing the big 3 WILL be necessary by then... Thanks for the help guys!

Ryan from Ohio · 07-07-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

Hosnestly if you aren't in to competition why even bother upgrading the Big 3? I run 600wrms with a 1.5farad cap feed with size 1/0 ga wire on stock alternator and a three year old battery with no issues. I just think thats a bit much to go through for a non competition system.

Again I repeat that this is my opinion...before anyone goes off in here...LOL!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach3

I would agree. I'm running 3 amps with 400 WRMS each and 2 caps and this setup was enough for every day driving and I mean really pushing them hard. Upgrades are great for performacne and piece of mind but realistically it's an over kill. I would suggest only upgrade if you clearly see that it's causing problems with everything stock.

Ok, lets hit the Big 3 topic first then I will be back to Lonnie...

Why do the Big 3?

Well its pretty simple. Stock wiring is your weakest link. The wires from the alternator to battery, battery to ground and transmission to ground are equivalent to 8 Ga wire.

If you need power wire over 8 Ga wire its imperative these wires be upgraded. Otherwise they turn into your weakest link AND they will choke the voltage off AND get warm/melt/fail.

If your amplifiers are pulling more amperage than the Big 3 can handle, the voltage will dip. Once the voltage hits battery level you will pull direct from the battery, around 12.6V instead of the alternators 13.8-14.4V. That WILL cause light dimming (2V difference) and it will also cause the amplifiers power to go down. Less in = less out.

Lonnie... WTH 1/0 for 600 WRMS?

Talk about MASSIVE overkill.

Ryan from Ohio · 07-07-2009, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cashdollar2009

Okay okay, my bad, when the car is running i'm reading 14.0 volts. I have not done the "Big 3" yet but plan to this summer. And by pulling power, i am using a budget setup. My uncle gave me the two 15" Petra Prowler subs, i'm using an 800 watt max/350rms Visonik V308XT amplifier, a 5.0 farad Power Acoustik capacitor, and 4 gauge installbay wiring. The under hood fuse is only a 60amp, and i'm running a stock alternator and everything. I went to a parts-o-rama/car show/audio competition in Butler a few weeks back, hit a 141.5 in dB drag, no bs, couldn't believe it, the girls reset it and then hit a 139.8 the second run 30 seconds later. I am looking to add an MA Audio 12 in a custom box build for the two 15's and the 12, with the 15's sealed as they are now, and the 12'" ported. But i'm guessing the big 3 WILL be necessary by then... Thanks for the help guys!

Epic fail is process.

Your ideal will not work. If anything you will loose DBz.

With the 60 Amp fuse you will be fine to 500 WRMS or so class A/B amp or about 700 WRMS Class D.

Your power wire needs to go to the battery, period. No other proper way of doing it, so do it right.

Put your DMM on the amplifiers + and - and see what kind of voltage you are getting back there.

My guess is your loosing voltage on the stock wiring... Or your caps display is not right.

cherrington17 · 07-07-2009, 03:51 PM

ryan cringed at my dual 8ga wires. and lonnie is running 1/0!

Psyfox · 07-07-2009, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

Hosnestly if you aren't in to competition why even bother upgrading the Big 3? I run 600wrms with a 1.5farad cap feed with size 1/0 ga wire on stock alternator and a three year old battery with no issues. I just think thats a bit much to go through for a non competition system.

Again I repeat that this is my opinion...before anyone goes off in here...LOL!

I just think that the big 3 isn't that hard to do, and it saves you a lot of electrical troubles when adding to your car (even if you don't add to your car...why not?).

I don't know...maybe I'm wrong about everything, but that's just my opinion/impression.

lonnie · 07-07-2009, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psyfox

I just think that the big 3 isn't that hard to do, and it saves you a lot of electrical troubles when adding to your car (even if you don't add to your car...why not?).

I don't know...maybe I'm wrong about everything, but that's just my opinion/impression.

If it is your opinion your aren't wrong....my thinking is that it can get pretty expensive to upgrade the Big three..we are talking a battery like optima....new alt.....and huge wires....equal expensive to me...I agree not hard to do...but I wouldn't think anyone would want to invest the money and time into a daily driver...thats all I'm saying.

By all means do what you feel you need to do and hopefully post some pics here.

cherrington17 · 07-07-2009, 07:27 PM

upgrading the "big 3" is strictly talking about upgrading the grounding wires/power wires. can be done for cheap, if your willing to fight with stiff wire.

if you have a bigger system (or lots of stuff running in your car) then its better to upgrade the batt/alt.

Ryan from Ohio · 07-07-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonnie

If it is your opinion your aren't wrong....my thinking is that it can get pretty expensive to upgrade the Big three..we are talking a battery like optima....new alt.....and huge wires....equal expensive to me...I agree not hard to do...but I wouldn't think anyone would want to invest the money and time into a daily driver...thats all I'm saying.

By all means do what you feel you need to do and hopefully post some pics here.

Lonnie is having a senior moment.

In his mind the "big 3" is battery, alternator and that other thing?

Sorry Lonnie... lol

Fi-Alero · 07-07-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

but I wouldn't think anyone would want to invest the money and time into a daily driver

Lol it depends on how much bass you like. I have a kinetik 1800 up front, a kinetik 2400 in the back, 3 runs of 1/0 to the back battery, and the big 3 done in 3/0.

AleroDrime · 07-07-2009, 10:33 PM

um i cant help but asking i get like 12 volts to my capacitor when its off, and it bounces around 18 when the systems playing

lonnie · 07-08-2009, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan from Ohio

Lonnie is having a senior moment.

In his mind the "big 3" is battery, alternator and that other thing?

Sorry Lonnie... lol

....I am getting old....LOL

dontunderestimate10s · 08-04-2009, 12:35 AM

did you think to check if there is a regulator on the cap? my 18 farad has one, im not familiar with yours however. and in my opinion caps cant really hurt your system, unless ur running multiple batteries and multiple amps w high amounts of current draw which depending on ur electrical will drain your cap and batteries quickly, in other words ur batteries may be having to power your amps and charge ur cap at the same time.. depends on the setup.

Ryan from Ohio · 08-04-2009, 10:20 AM

If thats true, then your running at 12.6 volts then... So whats charging your batteries?

If you dont have the proper power caps wont help- in extreme cases.

If you are just casually crossing the line, it will help.

However its not a blanket band aid to all.

coleinalaska · 08-05-2009, 06:13 AM

ideally it should read whatever voltage the rest of your charging system is at actually i think no matter what it will read at the same voltage

dont some of these caps they sell have adjustable voltage displays? i remember reading that somewhere

i once had a capacitor when i was 16 in electronics class i ordered a 1.5 farad industrial capacitor for like 9 dollars because my friends said i needed one well it made no difference
i almost got in a fight while on top of a 2 million gallon oil tank over capacitors i was telling this guy i worked with about my system and he asked if i had one i said no i have a 250 amp alternator and all my wiring is upgraded he insisted i needed one over and over and took me saying no i dont need one its just another load on my battery as an attack on his intelligence i guess.
later that guy stole my film badge so due to nuclear regulatory commission rules i was automatically given the maximum dose of radiation and couldnt work in radiography for a year.

id burn it then go buy some 4 gauge or go to walmart and get that 2 gauge they sell for starters do the big 3 its easy doesnt take long at all especially if you have the 3.4 everything is right there easy access

coleinalaska · 08-05-2009, 06:21 AM

you could try taking a voltmeter to your alternator wire and a good ground see what that is so you can rule that out

did i read that correctly at the beginning you have your power coming from the starter? id hook it up to the battery

AleroDrime · 08-05-2009, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psyfox

Also, I would put direct current to your alt (so battery straight to alt) and then hook up and solder another ground wire to the chassis of your car. This prevents power loss to the rest of the electric in your car, including the headlights, when the bass hits (some people will run a super powered amp and sub and notice that their headlights "blink" every time the bass hits...aka, they lose power...which could put you in a major accident at night).

thats what a capacitor is to prevent

AleroDrime · 08-05-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AleroChick785

i believe it is a 3. i'll have to double check. new battery..maybe month old. really hope it's not the alternator

if its hiting one moment and not the next double check the grounds! to easy, when i first hooked my up it was cutting on and off, then i realized i didnt have the ground to the amp very tight, then it was fixed like majic