my trunk thingy rattles

I got that infamous rattle. Checked it out and one of the 3 small screws that hold that big center piece on came out. I put one in to replace it, tightened my plate and cover down with all four bolts and no more rattle, (except for that damn air escaping from the top front edge of the lid ) Just thought I'd tell ya so you all can double-check that all your screws are in for that piece. I'll try and get a pic up today if anyone needs it.

I cut a dowel rod about 1/4" thick and stuck it carefully up in there sideways then turned it long ways to where it just put a lil pressure on the inside of it and BAAARELY (like 2mm) pushed that piece out away from the car..its hard to explain in writing, but that rod is just held up in there by pressure and it's doin very well (been in there for bout 6 months now and hasnt fallen out or anything) also the use of Dynamat on the inside of the trunklid helps a LOT

i was thinking today (its college, u have lots of spare time to do this) is there a plastic putty or similar that could be used to make that snap off piece a solid piece? what im thinkin about doin is filling in that plastic with some sort of filler, putting open ended screw threads in and making them permanent, and then that way all i have to do is throw nuts on it when is back on the trunk and that will give it no room to vibrate...hmm any thoughts or is this just confusing ?

I put a very small amount of clear silicone on the top of the thing that rattles. Worked great....You can't event tell it is there.......

Now, I have the rattle on the right side of the rear bumper, anyone know how to fix this?

[niral622]

You mean that hollow part that hangs down from the rest of the car near the tire?

[Youngblood77]

I dunno if this'll help anyone, but this is what I did, and once I get 2 more liscence plate grommets and screws, I think this'll work. ( It already does, to a certain extent )

I pulled off the same panel that Stealth did, and layered 3 thicknesses of this seam-sealer stuff I had in my shed ( I just built an addition on my house; this stuff sits on top of the block wall foundation, under the "sill plate" that the floor-joist sit on, to keep warm/cold air from penetrating into the house where gaps in the wood are present )

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulat...s/foamsealr.asp

^-------this stuff

after layering it in there, i cut holes where the plastic things meet, and clamped the stuff in there with the panel. In MY particular case, it seemed the whole center section of that panel was vibrating, even with the screws tight. This fixed it, but it don't keep the liscence plate from wanting to jump off the car
(that's where the other 2 grommets and screws come in. )

This fix is REAL cheap, REAL easy, non-permanant, and is clean with NO sticky stuff.


hope this helps.

The cushions out of pillows you get from hobby stores work too.

or do what i did, face your subs forward instetad of rearward

^^^ i face my subs inwards and it still rattles........... anymore stellar suggestions einstein?

Originally posted by SweetAlero99@Jul 20 2004, 02:47 PM
anymore stellar suggestions einstein?

sounds like somebody has a little sand in his vagina

Originally posted by SweetAlero99@Jul 20 2004, 02:47 PM
^^^ i face my subs inwards and it still rattles........... anymore stellar suggestions einstein?

mine rattled way worse facing rear ward than they do now... thats why i made that suggestion

Mobs, maybe the reason is b/c Sweet alero has your system's daddy (by about-2,000 watts)

i could care less. mine sounds good to me listening to rock, and the cars next to me cant hear it very well. thats how mine is built.

[alero_ecotec]

I had the same problem when i first put my system into my car. Im running about 2000 watts of power through that baby, so needless to say, she rattled at 1st.....so here is what i did that fixed it completely, not a rattle or anything except bass.

It was simple enough, i did what was mentioned earlier, i went out and got a tube of clear RV silicone, not something u put in a caulk gun, just like a toothpaste size tube, and i made sure it had a nice long nozzle on it, that went to a point. So, i opened just barely so i could get into that crack good. And i 1st ran some at what i could get at from the inside when i popped the trunk....then i closed the trunk and ran it down that crack more, making sure i got a nice ammount in it, and then ran it so it was basically coming out of the crack, like a little mound....take a paper towel and smooth the silicone so you get the eveness that looks good to you.
To make that long thing short, basically you just get a good ammount of silicone in there and wipe her clean and even so there are no bumps or bad spots. Dont worry if you get a little on the paint where u dont want it, it will come off once it drys, but dont try to get it off while its wet or you will make it worse

Now this part is IMPORTANT : it may seem easier to fill that crack with the trunk open because you dont have to bend down, and you have i better vantage point on it...........But DO NOT do this......only put the silicone on with the trunk open when you are trying to get at it from the inside. If you silicone the outside with the trunk open and then once you are done, you go and close the trunk you will force a bunch of that silicone out, and i dont think you'll get an effect that is as good. Only silicone the outside with the trunk open if you can leave your trunk open for a good 5 hours at least, because thats about how long it will take to dry well enough for you to actually be able to use your trunk, and full set up will be after a day, depending on your temp. and humidity where you live. Also, i wouldnt recommend using your system full blast, or even half, as this will make the trunk rattle like it was, forcing silicone out.

Try it, it works, trust me, i did it to mine. The nice thing it that its clear, so it doesnt look like something that's not supposed to be there. And its lasted me for about 5 months now with no signs of peeling or wear and tear.

If anyone has any questions about this just go ahead and ask or PM me, i'll anwser anything. I've been installing systems in my city for a couple of years now, and my 1st car was a 92' Buick LeSabre which i put a system, so needless to say, there were a few rattles on that bad boy. So i've become pretty good on getting rid of them.

I've gotten rid of these rattles:

1. liscense plate--put some 1/4" mat made for sit-ups
2. the thing that says alero--used the caulk idea
3. the top of the rear bumper was rattling-open the trunk, take off the 4 pins on the bumper, pull the piece up & put double-sided tape under to keep the bumper in place
4. when the trunk is open, on the right side, behind the carpet, is a rectangular piece of plastic with 2 dust vents, ripped both the rubber pieces out that were rattling

rattles I can't get rid of
1. When trunk is closed, front of trunk(next to window), rattles horribly (even put some expanda foam in the 3 little holes in there)
2. the whole underbody of car shakes (exhaust and everything under car)
3. With trunk closed and you're standing right behind the liscense plate, something inside the trunk involving the latch is rattling (even removed the whole escape latch, but still is rattling)
4. Something inside of both the taillights is rattling, can't figure out what

Any suggestions appreciated

[alero_ecotec]

Gave you a PM back pacho, hope it can solve some of your problems.