01-02-2007, 10:59 AM
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#1
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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Optima Red or Yellow
Well i have christmas money to spend and i was searching on this site on info for the yellow top, I WAS planning on taking out the old battery and put in the yellow top, but after i read up on them on here, people said to get the red top instead of the yellow. I mean i have a decent system, 1100 watts, but what do you guys think? should i get the red or yellow?
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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01-02-2007, 11:19 AM
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#2
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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I have red in my car, but I'm not running, or plan to ever run a system in it.
With a system, I suggest a yellow top
__________________
33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
2007 Volvo V50 T5 6M 15.782 @ 89.12
www.facebook.com/kb0177
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01-02-2007, 01:12 PM
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#3
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3500 DONE!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 5,915
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yea i was leaning toward the yellow but people were saying to get red, diff reasons. But now i think i might lean towards getting front and rear strut bars or a front strut bar and a new wireless internet card for my laptop cause the one that came with it is...... a.)2 yrs old, b.)it sucks
__________________
2002 3400 & 3500 GL "Ruby"-->R.I.P. 163k. My first car. Put 130k on her.
2000 3500 GLS "Robin"-->Intake,Headers,Exhaust,H&R springs,KYB AGX,Sway bars,Strut bars and more
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01-02-2007, 01:54 PM
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#4
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AutoCross Alero
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,759
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i run a yellow top, 2600 watts, never have a problem.
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01-02-2007, 03:09 PM
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#5
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GL Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hamilton,Ontario
Posts: 331
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can sumone explain the difference to me..im also looking to get one but i can only find the red tops around here..is there a price differance also cause the red top here is 200$.
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01-02-2007, 03:30 PM
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#6
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AutoCross Alero
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,759
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check ebay for the yellow top, i got mine for 180.00 shipped from ebay.
yellowtop is a deepcycle spiral core, redtop is a standard spiral core.
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01-02-2007, 04:06 PM
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#7
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 397
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I have a system and a Red Top and it works/has worked for 4 years fine.
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01-02-2007, 06:12 PM
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#8
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I have the red one
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01-02-2007, 07:15 PM
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#9
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GL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabartram
yellowtop is a deepcycle spiral core, redtop is a standard spiral core.
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?????? OK, I'll ask. What does that mean?
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01-02-2007, 09:53 PM
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#10
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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The yellow top is a deep cycle battery. It will provide less over current, but the current it will provide is over a longer period of time.
The Red Top is more of a car starting battery. Provides good CCA, but not long term current.
__________________
-Ryan
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03-10-2007, 10:59 AM
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#11
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GL Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canonsburg, Pa
Posts: 306
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I sucked a red top dry once. I use Kinetik Power cells now. Great power comp. to the red top
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03-10-2007, 11:53 AM
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#12
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Aleromod part owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Far Northeast Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 18,199
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__________________
33% ALEROMOD OWNER!!
2000 Olds Alero 3400 SFI 14.53 @ 94.93
1985 Olds Delta 88 307 SBO 17.96 @ 76.99
2007 Volvo V50 T5 6M 15.782 @ 89.12
www.facebook.com/kb0177
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03-10-2007, 02:33 PM
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#13
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V.I.P. Punching Bag
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Posts: 4,313
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03-10-2007, 05:01 PM
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#14
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Gone
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lockport Ny
Posts: 19,244
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deep cycle are typically marine batteries. even if you kill them, you can throw a charger on them and they will be good again. Which means yellow top can be drained, but revived.
red top, if you kill them, your only going to get a fraction of the power back... but it does provide better cold cranking amps (cca's) which is good for us, in the frozen tundra months...
i wish i had known that when i got my redtop... 2 years ago. i thought red WAS deep cycle. (knew yellow was) now i keep fighting myself to get a yellow, since i accidentally killed my red twice.
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03-10-2007, 05:23 PM
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#15
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Soon to be banned again
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Bellmore, NY
Posts: 3,372
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i have 2 Stinger SP1000's in my car, they are deepcycle drycell and run like $225 or thats what they were when i got mine with a 1.0 cap and my lights still dimmed with my system
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I shaved my balls for this?
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03-10-2007, 08:25 PM
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#16
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GLS member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 3,505
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should be red for starting yellow for extra
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03-11-2007, 08:58 PM
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#17
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 567
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I have yellow and no complaints
__________________
Chris
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03-11-2007, 10:23 PM
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#18
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Master of my Domain
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 4,072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsavyor1
I sucked a red top dry once. I use Kinetik Power cells now. Great power comp. to the red top
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Ya I guess Pat has some good batts.
Anyways my SPL friend prefers the DEKA batteries. I think we got 3 of the intimidators in the Buick...
Seems you didnt pick the right battery for the job
__________________
-Ryan
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03-11-2007, 10:30 PM
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#19
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GL Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Decatur,IL
Posts: 362
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yellow ftw
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1999 Oldsmobile alero 3400 sfi
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03-12-2007, 05:15 PM
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#20
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I pretty much agree with most everybody else, red for starting yellow for a longer lasting power for a system, I put two yellow tops in my diesel truck first but they had a harder time starting it but when i switched to red they started it much easier, no system in the truck though.
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