Lil Mods To Increase Hp...

Well i would like to know some cheap, little mods to increase hp, i thought it would be interesting to do, to see what u guys think.

[BlackJack]

I could help you a little easier if you could define "cheap".

I have know idea if cheap to you is $100 or less, or in the $5,000 range.

but for your perusal, check out the modification section.

[doubleN0alero]

what engine?

[Redog]

K&N fliter $50 or intake. $200

Cat back exhaust $500 plus installation

Gets more expensive after that

Pulleys are out there too they are cheap too, but price is pending on what engine you have

[SilverBullet256]

exhaust prices depend on the seetup you go for, you might be able to get a local muffler shop to put a 2.5 inch mendral bent pipe back to the muffler, then put a high flow muffler on, and like i said price varies, a shop by me quoted me 300 for that with a flowmaster 80 muffler

I was thinking about the free ones or the cheap ones that cost around 15$.

Like doing sumthing with the mas airflow sensor.

[BlackJack]

MAF screen not really worth it IMO. I dont think there's much out there for around $15 that will do much good.

[AlbinoMonkeyRat]

$15? I don't think there's anything you could buy for $15 that will get you power...of course the Honda guys would say "get some stickers!!1"

the cheapest HP mod I can think of is an intake, and depending on where you get it, it can cost anywhere from $25-$250. I got my intake for $25 + shipping. AEM and Dr Speed overcharge for their intakes (IMO).

next option would be working with the pullies, but that can get pricey too.

You really have to pay for performance.

Like on dsm's there are "free mods" said to give you more "umph"..
THIS IS A COPY OF WHAT IS ON DSM'S SITE JUST TO SHOW YOU WHAT I MEAN..
Step 1: Remove Emissions Vacuum Lines
The four small rubber hoses that go from your throttle body into the engine bay have no purpose other than to active the emissions equipment. Remove all of them. They go down to the thermostat housing and then back behind the engine, and then BLOCK OFF the throttle body ports with little vacuum caps, RTV, and zip ties. This will make your car illegal in the eyes of the emissions test facilities. If you're not worried about passing emissions tests, then proceed with this step and the next.
(An Example)


Step 2: Block Off the EGR
The EGR valve is located below the throttle body elbow. It re-routes exhaust gases back into the intake manifold for emissions purposes. Use a piece of sheet metal to block it off, just replace the gasket. Many DSM shops sell these, or you can make one from a piece of sheet metal. This will also make your car illegal in the eyes of the emissions testing facilities.


Step 3: "Hack" MAF
There are several "hacks" to the mass airflow meter that will solve a plethora of problems that plague these cars. Take the whole aircan out of the car, and remove the filter. On the intake side, you will see 2 honeycombs. Remove the lower one. Below it, you will see a large plastic screw set up into the bottom of the air canal. Back it out a bit. On the other side of the MAF, there is a star-shaped siliencer, remove it.
(An example)


Step 4: Hack Aircan and Intake Area
While the aircan is out of the car, do some more hacking. The stock aircan has a rather restrictive opening, as well as a restrictive path for the air to take. At the least, drill off the rivets holding the snorkel on, and at best chop the front side of the can off. Also, remove the black plastic screen that is behind the headlight and chuck it.
(An Example)


Step 5: Remove Ridge in TB Elbow
The first generation throttle body elbow has a ridge inside it where it bends, remove it from the car and use a tool such as a dremel or maybe even a file to remove this and smooth the inside out. Make sure to clean all the metal chips out.


Step 6: Clean Throttle Body
Using a throttle body or carb cleaner, clean the throttle plate and the inside of the throttle body. IMPORTANT: make sure to stuff a rag into the holes at the bottom of the TB, or the cleaner will get in there and kill the mechanisms down there. Then, use the can and a rag to clean it all out. When you're done with that, you can start the car with the intake pipe unplugged, and spray a can right into the throttle body. You can also spray the can into any line that sees vacuum at idle.


Step 7: Verify that WOT is 100%
With the car turned off, have someone sit in the car and floor the gas pedal, and then check to see if you can rotate the throttle plate any more by hand. If you can, it could be due to the cable being out of adjustment (adjust on the back of the intake manifold, 2 bolts) or something like a floor mat keeping the pedal from going all the way down. Fix this.


Step 8: Check IC outlet Pipe for Corrosion
The intercooler outlet pipe on the older cars has a tendency to corrode and leak out boost. Take the plastic fender liner off the car (take off passenger side wheel), take the intercooler out, and if it has ANY signs of corrosion, coat the entire upper pipe with JB weld. This is also a good time to:


Step 9: Open up the Fender Liner
You can use a sanding wheel (Dremel, die grinder, etc) to open up the vents in the fender liner behind the intercooler. Some people just cut it out and replace it with a screen/wire mesh, that works too. ALSO, make sure that you have the duct in front of the intercooler in place and that it seals up. While the intercooler is still out:


Step 10: Clean the Intercooler
Use a cleaner such as simple green, greased lightning, or gasoline to clean out the inside of the intercooler. It gets filled up with oil over time, which can reduce it's efficiency. Make sure to get it nice and clean, until the water and cleaner comes out clear. Let it dry out completely.


Step 11: Remove the BCS Restrictor
If you do not have a manual boost controller, you can safely up the boost about 1-2 psi by removing the restrictor in the boost control solenoid. In the nipple that is perpendicular to the body of the solenoid, you can insert a screw or a drill bit, and then pull out the restrictor. Make SURE not to drill into the body!!!


Step 12: Check Base Timing
Buy or borrow a timing light. Hook it up as per the instructions. Ground the black timing connector on the firewall behind the battery, and if you have a logger UNPLUG IT. Check to see that the base timing (crank pulley) is set at 5 degrees of advance. If not, loosen and rotate the crank angle sensor until it is.
(An Example)
(Another Example)


Step 13: Valve Cover Vent Breather
Replace the hose from the valve cover breather (left side of the valve cover) to the intake pipe with a simple breather filter and cap the intake pipe nipple. You can also use a catch can if you like. This keeps oil out of the intake pipes and the intercooler. If you want to do this even better, check out:
(An Example)


Step 14: Unplug Clutch Switch
Under the dash on the clutch pedal assembly, there is a switch that will only allow the car to be turned on if the clutch is pushed in. Just unplug this so that you can start the car without touching the clutch, it's better for the thrust bearing. The plug is on the front side of the clutch pedal assembly, so that it is only pressed when the clutch is all the way in.


Step 15: Pressure Test the Intake
This is one of the MOST CRUCIAL things you can do to make sure your car is runing properly! Does your car ever sputter, misfire, fuel cut, bog, idle badly, or smoke (black)under boost? It could be a boost leak! You need to build a pressure tester that will clamp onto the turbo and lt you use a bike pump or an air compressor to send pressure into the IC pipes and the manifold. ANY and ALL leaks should be fixed! The only thing I know of that should leak is the manual boost controller.
(An Example)


That is for a 90-94 turbo talon or eclipse (my second car)..Bought for 300 and to get it running it took 50

[jackal2000]

Originally posted by Redog@Feb 9 2006, 10:44 PM
Cat back exhaust $500 plus installation

Quoted post

more like $250 - $300 for a custom set-up

[Wild Country]

$15'll get you some hydro-electric shifting

[natedawg9640]

a lot of the stuff on that list is just stupid... engineers wouldn't put it there if it wasn't "good" for the car... doing that stuff just seems like a good way to lose gas mileage and screw with your car... not what i would call "modding"

Originally posted by natedawg9640@Feb 13 2006, 10:42 AM
a lot of the stuff on that list is just stupid... engineers wouldn't put it there if it wasn't "good" for the car... doing that stuff just seems like a good way to lose gas mileage and screw with your car... not what i would call "modding"

Quoted post

I WOULD HAVE TO AGREE, EVEN IF HE IS FROM WISCONSIN, HEY HOW IS FEZ?

[BlackJack]

not relating to anything specific on that list, but in general, I have to disagree. Engineers put most of those little features on there to increase longevity or economy, not performance.

For example, I've looked at the line pressure settings in a factory PCM and have come to the conclusion that under performance driving, the low fact. pressure will do more harm with than by upping the pressures a bit. Shifting will be a little more crisp, but shouldn't go "clunk" when you put it in drive.

Factory also sets the fuel map more for economy. There is plenty of room to add more timing and fuel from the factory settings.

I agree that engineers try to improve the everyday average driving, but modding is more to squeeze the performance potential out of the vehicle that is suppressed in leu of economy.

[Fast Eddie]

which engine?

removing vacuum lines will not help performance only hurt emissions. The 00' up 2.4's have no EGR and no 2.4s have MAFs. Grinding intake parts and cleaning them up is risky and usually pointless on the TB or tubing. The rest is pretty specific to having an intercooled turbo, which, obviously, you do not have on the alero so its not applicable.

For ~$15 you can get 1/2 tank of gas, but not much else, maybe a couple of cans of seafoam.