Fyi

BLK03GXS · 06-05-2005, 12:55 AM

Well i dont know about anyone else, but i remember reading that the 4banger aleros came with like 95amp alternators...
I have a 03 base coupe with the eco, and just FYI it has a 105 amp alternator... thats quite big for stock...

That is all .

jackal2000 · 06-05-2005, 12:55 AM

how did you find that out?

BLK03GXS · 06-05-2005, 12:58 AM

1:checked on the back of my alternator where it states accually 14v 102 amps.
2: checked the acdelco replacement for my car and its listed as a 105 amp.

Real neat eh? lol

I guess after i get some yellow tops and a cap, and isolator, i WONT be getting bigger alternator.

06-05-2005, 01:02 AM

nice find!

06-05-2005, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BLK03GXS@Jun 4 2005, 07:58 PM
1:checked on the back of my alternator where it states accually 14v 102 amps.
2: checked the acdelco replacement for my car and its listed as a 105 amp.

Real neat eh? lol

I guess after i get some yellow tops and a cap, and isolator, i WONT be getting bigger alternator.

Quoted post

sorry dude but those 10 extra amps you already had, still arent really enough........what kind of system are you running.........and theres a difference between a really nice battery and what an alternator can do........the yellow top will just allow you to play your music longer without your battery dying, the alternator is going to keep enough current going to your battery/amps to keep the car and system running optimal........

mikegett · 06-05-2005, 07:11 PM

Not so. 105 amps is a pretty good sized altenator. I have stated it before and I will state it now. Too many people assume that they need a larger altenator. When it comes down to it, every individual will be different. It deepends on a variety of factors. What size and quantity of amps. What sub or speaker and how it is wired. What enclosure or efficiency your speaker/sub has. What car and most important, how you listen to your music. Never, should a individual be told that they will need to purchase a new alt until after the system is installed and tested. The other issue to concider is how old the car and electrical system is. Dimming lights or loss of bass could be caused due to a failing altenator, old battery, or a poor grounding wire. I have seen on several occassions that dirty terminals and loose ground wires from the bat and alt have been to blame.

turtles_ride · 06-05-2005, 10:41 PM

kind of along the same lines, i wanted to get larger wire for ground, power, and alternator wires. I bought SmokinAMDs powder coated blue delphi 160amp alternator, and picked up another 2 batteries(i was gonna get a yellow top but i got these 2 for free so i'm gonna use em) and i think with all that power kickin around i'd feel safer going with 4guage of 2 guage wires. question is does anyone know the lengths of the wires i need to get and could anyone recommend a good brand?

06-06-2005, 12:59 AM

The only thing I would be worried about with the altenator, is if I got a yellow top is if the altenator is sending enough watts(after all the dirt, wires, and loss of power due to electrical trips) back to the battery to charge it fully...theres no point in spending a extra 70$ for a battery that isnt getting enough power back to it.

06-06-2005, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mikegett@Jun 5 2005, 02:11 PM
Not so. 105 amps is a pretty good sized altenator. I have stated it before and I will state it now. Too many people assume that they need a larger altenator. When it comes down to it, every individual will be different. It deepends on a variety of factors. What size and quantity of amps. What sub or speaker and how it is wired. What enclosure or efficiency your speaker/sub has. What car and most important, how you listen to your music. Never, should a individual be told that they will need to purchase a new alt until after the system is installed and tested. The other issue to concider is how old the car and electrical system is. Dimming lights or loss of bass could be caused due to a failing altenator, old battery, or a poor grounding wire. I have seen on several occassions that dirty terminals and loose ground wires from the bat and alt have been to blame.

Quoted post

and i get that, thats why i asked what kind of system he was running, i just assumed if that he was considering a new alternator that maybe he had a decent sized one........i plan on getting an 800 watt rms sub amp, and upgrading to a 300 watt rms 4 channel amp, running 1100 watts im definately going to want to upgrade, i already get dimming lights........

but i agree, get everything installed and see how it handles......

BLK03GXS · 06-06-2005, 08:06 PM

Well if you get 2 batterys... there are certin things you need to do...

The setup that IM going to go with is yellowtops, and an isolation relay, so that the front battery is for the car, and the rear is for the amps.
With the isolation relay, the rear system will not draw curent from the system untill the system in front is fully charged, then the alternator will be able to charge the rear battery.

This setup along with a 1.5-3 farad cap should be all that i need. 105 amps is MORE then enuff to keep a system in that type fully charged given enuff idle time. (idle time being with the system not on, or at low levels)

The system i have now is alpine cda-9835, alpine speakers, alpine R15 sub powered by alpine MRD-m605 amp.
The wires are all stinger 4awg

I will be going with a set of componants up front, prolly 6.5 inch rtype componants, with better 6x9's in rear. powered by frv-f345.

I will also be adding larger battery to ground, block and 4 guage from battery to alt, and from batt to fuse block.

With that system or even if i add a differant woofer setup and annother mrd-m605 there should still be plenty of juice.

mike2002 · 06-07-2005, 07:37 AM

95 or 105, either way its probably putting out about....40-45 at idle. i have a 5channel thats somthing like 60x4, and the sub portion is 400watts at 2ohms, so its probably running 50x4+275 TOPS since no one cranks there gains all the way.

that small of a amp still dims the poop out of my headlights at idle, and a little when im driving. thats with no fog lights on, and no other aftermarket wiring/lighting besides halo gauges.

DansGen1Alero · 07-04-2005, 11:48 PM

would there be such a thing as too many amps from an alternator.
like 200?
car ac cut off today and head unit turned off cause not enough power, not untill I revved to 2 grand. (was in a parade today) stock alt now, pushing 1000 watts 2 3 12s, adding another 525 for highs that thats wht iam asking, also have a red top.

mikegett · 07-05-2005, 01:03 AM

No. The altenator won't automaticaly displace 200 amps. If there is not enough pull from the battery, it may only put out 45 to 50. 200 is the number that the alt can produce. Before purchasing a new one, you should concider upgrading your battery to altenator power and ground wire. Do a search for the big three. Even if you need the added altenator, you won't get the benefit without doing this. Your current wiring will bottleneck the current going to the battery and could cause more harm to the new altenator. It is the same thing as your power and ground wire to the amp. Your system will always pull 12 to 14 volts but if the wire or ground connection is poor the amps will go up. Your new altenator may pull more amps (and die sooner) than what it would with new wires. This is a fairly cheap thing to do. Have a autoplace test your current amp draw on your car. Do the big three and then have it tested again. You may be suprised and find out that you lowered your amperage pull and won't need the new altenator. The other thing to check is that your ground posts (on the battery and on the amp ground) are as large as possible. You may have a 4 gauge ground but if your posts are too small the system will pull excessive amperage. I use a distribution block for my ground that is two inches square to ensure full contact with the metal. If you have done all of this and your car still tests high on the amperage pull (have it tested, don't go by assuming rms or max system wattage) then upgrade your altenator. The last thing you want to do is pay for something you don't need. By the way. I have had my share of large systems. Never have I owned a car that needed a altenator upgrade beyond 105 amps. Your system wires, grounds, battery life, and altenator lifespan have a much larger impact than the max amperage your alt can produce.
You stated that your car is " stock alt now, pushing 1000 watts 2 3 12s, adding another 525 ". Are you going by max or rms watts? Neither one mean anything to your cars altenator. It is easy to hear that a individual has two 1000 watt rms subs with a amp to match it. This does not mean that the system is seeing 200 watts continuously. The amp rms is the max wattage that the amp can produce continuously without clipping. This is only seen when the amp input has achieved its max input value. Look on the gain setting. You will see something like .2 to 8 volts or whatever its spec is. Only at the max value will the amp produce a continuous rms wattage. On a properly set up system that will be at your max volume that you listen to. If you setup the gains too high so that the amp sees the max input at half volume, then it will begin to clip continuously. You won't get added usable wattage. ONLY wattage that contains distortion and kills speakers and amps. I appologize if this seems confusing. There are alot of factors that contribute to your cars final wattage. You will hear from many people that they have systems pushing 1000 to 2000 watts continuously. In reality, most of those systems have the potential but only reach it at peak volumes. The only way to know how much you continuously draw in watts or amps is to place a meter on it.

turtles_ride · 07-05-2005, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mike2002@Jun 7 2005, 06:37 AM
95 or 105, either way its probably putting out about....40-45 at idle. i have a 5channel thats somthing like 60x4, and the sub portion is 400watts at 2ohms, so its probably running 50x4+275 TOPS since no one cranks there gains all the way.

that small of a amp still dims the poop out of my headlights at idle, and a little when im driving. thats with no fog lights on, and no other aftermarket wiring/lighting besides halo gauges.

Quoted post

You didn't mention if you had a cap or not. If you don't then the draw from pretty much any amp and speakers has the potential to dim your lights.

DansGen1Alero · 07-05-2005, 06:41 PM

I have no cap right know, I do not believe in them since they have not done poop for me in past.
I have just put O gauge all through car and from ground, I have not upgraded wireing from alt since it is stock, I just replaced all terminals on my red top, 1000 is rms the 525 though might be max
version 1 JL Audio W-6s are meant to run in threes the amp I have is technically giving 300 a piece. The gain is not turn all the way up so in actuallity i am running about 900 give or take. it was not untill I upgraded all my wires did i have this problem. Not to mention i was at idle most of time(parade). I do feel I need more idle amps, and as long as no damage can be done by throwing 200 to 220 I'll be allright.
I will def be running another wire from alt to bat, once i get upgraded one.