You were correct in that one external relay would be needed for the amp. I had forgotten that the reciever was running off of a unswitched 12 volt source.
The timed relay mentioned a few posts earlier would be required in the event that the reciever is used on a motor or anything that could not sustain direct current for a indefinate amount of time. Once again, this is not a operation that I would suggest for anyone with little experience.
RoninKouga,
There are two possibilities. The reciever could be switching 12 volts constant or to ground. Most likely it is switching the ground. Without knowing where the reciever is, your best choice is to trace the wires coming from the alarm horn. A quick way without using a meter would be disconnecting the horns ground. Run a temporary ground from the chasis or battery to the horn. If the remote does not trigger the alarm then you know the reciever is using the ground. Both of my othe vehicles triggered off of 12 volts positive. I believe this was to allow the fuse block to pass through it. I simply found the wire located in the fuse box and relocated it to a new source. What you want to be carefull of how many amps you will be pulling on the circuit. Check to see how much the horn is rated for. If your new source requires more amps you must use the signal to turn on higher rated relay. Otherwise, the reciever will quickly burn up its internal relay. I would suggest to be safe only use it as a turn on signal for the new relay.
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2003 Maroon Alero GLS Sedan. (Purchased new in 2003 with 18 miles, and sold in 2006)
2004 Toyota Corolla LE (Purchased new in 2003 with 87 original miles)
2007 Toyota Camry LE (12 original miles)
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