Custom Boxes

Sup guys, Will here attempting His FIRST ever box build. I have 2 12" Kicker Comps and a 10" Kicker Comp...I want to make a wood box that will have the 12's on the two and curved out a bit with the 10 in the middle....and have the top of the box at angle around the whole thing facing the trunk door...this way on both ends I can mount my 2 800Watt amps and in the middle a capcitor. SO basically what i need is a good link to a site that has dimensions, wood, supplys, and things listed for a box for those sizes of subs...any Links?

i forget exactly what it is called right now, but theres a real expensive material (like $25-$30 a sheet) that works a lot better than MDF and is more resistant to water...if anyone could refresh my memory on this i appreciate it.....as far as dimensions, your best bet is to individually build the boxes and then connect them, and i bet your subs came with a small user guide that includes a recommendation in cubic feet. basically from that just kind of play with some numbers and go from there. theres really no set designs, its all based on those dimensions and all that they recommend for the sub

thanks for the reply and yes I would like to hear more about this new material...Im still in school, and where Im from, its all about either your look or your speed, and right with alero...Im going for look before speed so this upgrade will definetly boost my aleros apperance.

its not a new material, i just cant think what its called....but its definetely better than MDF....if your able to search through everything i remember somewhere there was talk about it in a thread but i cant remember where

[mikegett]

Possibly Millamine. It is chip board with a laminated surface to give added strengh and water protection. I would suggest staying away from it for a sub box. The laminated surface takes a special glue to bond. I would seriously doubt that a flexing box would be easy to keep air tight. You might try a decent chip board or high grade plywood (my favorite). MDF is nothing more than sheets of paper glued togeather. Tip. Most high end cabinets are made of plywood.

I used what was called a "marine grade plywood" for the sub enclosure I built. It worked very well. I got it at a local hardware supply store.

thanks jsmith, thats exactly what i was thinking of, its about $25-$30 a sheet if im not mistaken, and a lot better material. on a side note, hopefully ill have my subs and amp tomorrow, but unless they give me a sub box for temporary use, wont be able to use em till i get a box built

Taking this in a different direction...

I don't think its a good idea to have 12's and a 10, something about phasing and having subs that are different sizes if I recall correctly.

[jamcllw]

Your going to get tons of cancellations running a 10 and two 12s. Your better off just using the two 12s.

exactly are cancellations...My friends neighbor is the guy helping me buy all the parts and components....he says he can wire it up so that the 10 and 12's will have different ampage according to the apprpriate size, he also says that hooking these sizes up will give me a better variation of decibals of bass allowing a wider range of sound, I dont know how to wire any of this up but it sounds liek instead of having 2 amps I should have 3?? Im not sure, they are 800 watts a piece so I dunno, Also Ive ditched the box biuld, I found a place that will doa custom fiberglass enclosure painted white like the outside of the car for about 250$ :-D

[alerored04]

that is a damn good deal for custom fiberglass, deffinately go for that.

[jamcllw]

The attenuation that occurs when two waveforms of equal frequency and opposite polarity are combined. The attenuation may be total when the waveforms are also of equal amplitude.

Basically stating that sound is produced in waves. When wave 1 smacks into wave 2 they need to be in phase with each other otherwise they cancel each other out. It's kinda hard to explain. Take water for example drop something on 1 side and then drop something on the other side of equal size shape and weight. When the waves produced hits each other they pretty much dissipate. Same thing happens with sound waves.

[mikegett]

Your friend is right that you can get a much better sound stage with 12's and a ten. You just need to have seperate crossover points for them. The only way a frequency can cancell out is with the same exact frequency. This isn't a problem with just different sized speakers but more multiple speakers. The more subs you add in a confined area the more likely you will have some cancellation. The other choice you have is switching the phaze of one sub or doing a slight time shift on one. Shifting the phaze will gain the cancelled frequencies but cn result in loosing efficiency in others. A time shift is the best alternative. DSP's simply delay the signal to one sub or speaker for a fraction of a second.

very Cool, thank you for the reply, My complete system should be done by the end of next month...its a paycheck by paychek deal.

mike - how much better of a soundstage is it with the 12's and 10?

Everything you talked about sounds like a lot of work and tuning, especially for someone who isn't a pro, so I wonder if just the 12's would be good enough or if that 10 will make a huge difference.

I guess another possibility would be another 12 instead of the 10 if he really wanted 3 subs, but hes already got some of the stuff.

[BLK03GXS]

the 10, and 12's wont be too differant... but like right now i have a 15, a good 10 or a 12 would make it sound SOOOO much better

the sizes i want to try to include in my next system is 15inch, 12, 8, and then mids... that would be nice...

[jamcllw]

If you get a good sub you don't there's no need to get all those others. I know plenty of good 15" subs that have low midbass yet can handle the high frequencys like an 8.

Originally posted by jiffy@Apr 28 2005, 11:53 PM
mike - how much better of a soundstage is it with the 12's and 10?

Everything you talked about sounds like a lot of work and tuning, especially for someone who isn't a pro, so I wonder if just the 12's would be good enough or if that 10 will make a huge difference.

I guess another possibility would be another 12 instead of the 10 if he really wanted 3 subs, but hes already got some of the stuff.

Quoted post

I dont really wnat 3 subs...but the box I have is made for 2 12's and since I already have a 12 and a 10 I figured that Ill just buy another one and wire it...it does sound like it will be hard to wire...but Imma have some help from someone so Ill just follow along and learn as I go.

[mikegett]

It deepends on how critical you are. Sound preferances will vary with each individual. If loud bass is the priority to your system then there will be no gain. If you find yourself criticing the reproduction accuracy, then multi systems would be a very good idea. The problem with one sub size is that it becomes very difficult for the driver to reproduce all of the frequencies with accuracy. It can be debated over and over, but no 15 inch sub will ever produce 60 htz with the accuracy of a good ten or eight inch driver. The same is true for a set of components. A 6.5 inch driver just cannot reproduce the low ranges with the same accuracy. I probably wouldn't say that a 12 and ten would be a huge improvement. More like a ten and a fifteen. As for difficulty, there is not much. Tuning all deepends on the type of enclosures. A sealed box has no tuning. It is more about finding the most efficient box size. Not hard if you use the manufacturers specs. The problem comes when multi staging in the front. Mids are much more difficult. Moving a midrange four inches could make a drastic difference in the sound. Primarily due to the smaller diameter of the sound wave.

Originally posted by jiffy@Apr 29 2005, 04:53 AM
mike - how much better of a soundstage is it with the 12's and 10?

Everything you talked about sounds like a lot of work and tuning, especially for someone who isn't a pro, so I wonder if just the 12's would be good enough or if that 10 will make a huge difference.

I guess another possibility would be another 12 instead of the 10 if he really wanted 3 subs, but hes already got some of the stuff.

Quoted post

[BLK03GXS]

Originally posted by mikegett+Apr 29 2005, 11:37 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mikegett @ Apr 29 2005, 11:37 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>It deepends on how critical you are. Sound preferances will vary with each individual. If loud bass is the priority to your system then there will be no gain. If you find yourself criticing the reproduction accuracy, then multi systems would be a very good idea. The problem with one sub size is that it becomes very difficult for the driver to reproduce all of the frequencies with accuracy. It can be debated over and over, but no 15 inch sub will ever produce 60 htz with the accuracy of a good ten or eight inch driver. The same is true for a set of components. A 6.5 inch driver just cannot reproduce the low ranges with the same accuracy. I probably wouldn't say that a 12 and ten would be a huge improvement. More like a ten and a fifteen. As for difficulty, there is not much. Tuning all deepends on the type of enclosures. A sealed box has no tuning. It is more about finding the most efficient box size. Not hard if you use the manufacturers specs. The problem comes when multi staging in the front. Mids are much more difficult. Moving a midrange four inches could make a drastic difference in the sound. Primarily due to the smaller diameter of the sound wave.

<!--QuoteBegin-jiffy@Apr 29 2005, 04:53 AM
mikeÂ;-) - how much better of a soundstage is it with the 12's and 10?Â;-)

Everything you talked about sounds like a lot of work and tuning, especially for someone who isn't a pro, so I wonder if just the 12's would be good enough or if that 10 will make a huge difference.

I guess another possibility would be another 12 instead of the 10 if he really wanted 3 subs, but hes already got some of the stuff.

Quoted post

Quoted post

[/b][/quote]
this is the reason im selling my 15 to get a 10/12