Fiberglassing Dash

[ptrudel]

I'm gonna be fiberglassin the mazda's dash soon...just wondering if there's something i should know before i start...

my main concern is, how do i prep the dash? what steps should be taken to ensure a good quality finish can be achieved?

any links or tips will be greatly appreciated

oh, one more question...i'm gonna want a one piece dash, console, and sub enclosure in the back...is it hard to glass everything together once its in the car, or is this a bad idea?

[smlzalero]

I can't offer any help on this, but I'm curious as to what you're doing exactly. Are you remaking a dash from fiberglass or are you coating the existing dash in fiberglass? I've been thinking about starting to mess with fiberglass, so I'll be watching this thread.

[ptrudel]

i'd lke to keep most of the stock dash look, cuz it goes with the outside shape...mind you, i'll be adding in alot too, screen, dvd player, gauges right in the console, turbo timer, and boost controller...its a big center part, so it'll be fairly easy to put everything in, and by fiberglassing, i'll be able to make it more or less how i want it to be :)

[AftermathAlero]

you sure u want to get into it? My alero dash wasn't too bad cuz I shaved everything off of it. (i.e. igntion key hole, air bag, coin pocket, 2nd cig lighter, vents, etc). I hope u like sanding major.

First off peel off vinyl, then use an air grinder with like 24.36 or 40 grit disc and grind off foam and grind the plastic . This is scuffing it up for fiberglass to stick to. Then in the spots the grinder can't fit, get some 36 grit sandpaper and hand sand those areas. Then next thing is to drill alot of hole. The major important step. NORMALLY FIBERGLASS DONT STICK TO PLASTIC, but the holes acts like a grip. Add a min of 2 layers of glass, but no more than 3.. if more.. might be overkill and dash might not fit into place. Then when it hardens, Grind down all the high spots in the fiberglass, after that sand the fiberglass with 36 grit (preferrbly with a DA sander; Your gonna regret sanding fiberglass by hand). Then go back and hand sand it with 36 grit because fiberglass isn't smooth and the DA sander only hits flat top spots, so by doing this, you'll get all the low spots too ... inhencing (sp) bodyfiller adhesion more. Then bodyfiller away to shape.

Then the fun part. Make the bodywork straight. Primer it (with the good stuff not no rattle can; use out of spray gun). Then after dry, use 150 grit on a block and block sand. you're gonna need to re-primer and block sand until dash it perfectly smooth .. no wavey lines or anything.

When i did my dash, I had to reprimer and block and it 5 times, my door panels i did it 6 times. My buddy who does professional bodywork, when he did fiberglass stereo install, he blocked sanded in the trunk 15 times before it was perfect. Yes i said in the trunk, cuz he built it in the trunk and its not removable. LOL


Heres my pics to you get the point.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbc...album?.dir=20b2 (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=20b2)

[ptrudel]

yeah i'm sure....i'm not gonna dye a "potential show car" 's dash...i wanna do it right..i'll be shaving a ton of stuff, and i already dont have to worry about airbags and such...didn't have 'em then...and the dash is mostly square..not too bad...

questions:
1. what does DA stand for?
2. what size holes should i drill?
3. is a one piece final assembled dash a bad idea?


thanks for the help man, appreciate it

[AftermathAlero]

1.) DA means Dual Action sander.
2.) size = big like like 1/2" holes
3.) 1 piece as in what you were talking bout in console, dash, etc. No. no recommend. Cuz u you ever need to access 1 part like the center console. You focked. Then you need to cut away into the console to get it back out again. You can do it if u really want to, but not recommend.

Oh yea I lefted out. When your putting layers of fiberglass on. If it add 1 coat of fiberglass, then let it dry. You need to re-sand the surface down for it to stick again for the next layer. Cuz when it starts drying, it'll have a glossy smooth surface. And nothing sticks to smooth surfaces.

heres pic of making custom door panels for my buddy. The FUN use of expandable foam! woot!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbc...album?.dir=6729 (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=6729)

then custom accord door panels.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbc...album?.dir=d189 (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/richwong@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=d189)

[ptrudel]

ok cool...thanks for the recommendation...i had a plan B anyways, cuz i had kinda thought about if something goes for a poop and i gotta take the dash out...

thanks for the pics...you do great work man...really appreciate the tips :)

[sound_xtreme]

it's a BITCH. i still havent got around to finishing mine. so much sanding.

[Oldsmopimp]

yes, anything shinney=BAD. lol, make sure to scuff everything. It sounds intimidating....but its just time consuming...the more time u spend, the better off it will look finished. Unless u really have NO clue what ur doin, lol. Good luck man!

[Oldsmopimp]

oh, and if u dont have access to a good air compressor, and like stated above a DA, or hogger, and grinders.......just abort the project.

[ptrudel]

i have an industrial compressor...its good, don't worry about that...it sounds intimidating, but a buddy of mine fiberglasses for a living...he'll be helpin me out if i need it...i dunno, sounds like a lot of work, but if i'm gonna be makin the outside look good, the inside's gotta match if you ask me...and nothin better then custom interior for that

[Oldsmopimp]

agreed. If u have the tools, I say go for it. Glass is cool, cuz if u mess something up and grind out a crater or somethin, just lay a few more strips of glass there and start over. And take COLD showers afterwards.