View Full Version : Ld9 Rebuild
AnderbrA
04-22-2005, 10:27 AM
Almost complete: ordered pistons today. will be here by next friday.
Heres what I am doing.
Rebuilding with all forged internals.
Wiseco Forged Pistons .020 overbored, 9:1 compression
Eagle Rods
Clevite 77 bearings
2.4 "Secret Cam Swap"
Port and Polish Head
Pistons, rods, crank...balanced.
Then guess whats comin?
psssssssssshhhhhhhtttt
So far here is my spendings list.
475 for Pistons
325 for Rods
150 for Cams
Still Awaiting Labor, but it should be 600 or less.
Total for a motor capable of holding a good 15psi+:
$1550
ptrudel
04-22-2005, 11:01 AM
that is freakin sweet man!!!
where did ya get the cams? i'm lookin to maybe go that way, but don't know if cams alone are really worth it
teebo7
04-22-2005, 11:03 AM
Pictures?
AnderbrA
04-22-2005, 11:28 AM
I got the cams through car-part.com or carparts.com whatever....i found them at a salvage lot in IL.
was gonna order from 2 different salvage lots, but the second one had both cams so i just ordered both there and got combined shipping....
always the bargain shopper
the motor is at the machine shop, I will take pictures when it is done. Although it will look just like a normal motor, since everything that changes is on the inside....lol
AnderbrA
04-22-2005, 11:31 AM
oh, and i forgot, next door to the shop is an exhaust shop.....to prepare for the hairdryer i was thinking of running a new headerback exhaust.....
I was thinking straight 3" back to rear suspension, then fork it to duals on each side2.5"....because 3" would be hard to get over the rear suspension....
fairly inexpensive too....$4 per foot and $3 per bend. :) install would be like 30 bucks.
AnderbrA
04-22-2005, 11:31 AM
actually you can get decent gains from the cams.....depending on mods, you could get up to 15-20 hp.
j-work
04-22-2005, 12:44 PM
Sweet AnderbrA! Post some pictures when you have a chance. So, how much of an hp increase are you looking at without the pssshhhttt? 30 hp?
AnderbrA
04-22-2005, 12:52 PM
Yeah I am hoping for 170-180 hp when its all done....i dont know for sure, but thats what im hopin for.
I know without doing any rebuild i could get 230 with 10psi!! so im hoping for around 250 @ 10psi.
|Rev|
04-22-2005, 02:45 PM
awesome, keep us updated!!
Oldsman
04-22-2005, 07:39 PM
some good choices. good luck
Spilner521
04-23-2005, 03:03 AM
nice build up :thumb: what size turbo are you running and what are you using for fuel management?
Fast Eddie
04-23-2005, 04:48 AM
Nice work be sure to have the cams checked to make sure they are in spec. cams will wear so be sure they are in good shape.
How did you drop compression ratio AND over bore ?? (Stock CR is 9.5:1) did you have the whole assembly balanced or just the inidvidual pieces? if so how fast did they spin the assembly?
If all you are adding, prior to boost, is the serect cams then based on your specs you will probably make ~160-165Hp@ the flywheel. You are dropping compression remember. the internals might be a bit lighter so you might hit 170HP but with just SC swap you are not gonna see 30HP gain, sorry. Remember the compression drop is gonna cost power.
Also what is involved in the PnP, that can make a diff, esp if they do valve work. If you have the time drop me the spec in a PM, you are definatly doing somethings I would like to know more about.
Final-Reality
04-23-2005, 06:00 PM
Please please tell me you're having the head ported...
It's very restrictive with boost you'll see a large bump in power if you get a decent port job done...
Also the stock throttle body is 52mm.. with boost, again, the bigger the better, so look around for a 60 or 62mm one.
n4sir1085
04-24-2005, 04:03 PM
That is going to be very nice. I assume you already have 2.3 intake manifold and TB?
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 10:03 AM
Originally posted by Fast Eddie@Apr 23 2005, 08:48 AM
Nice work be sure to have the cams checked to make sure they are in spec. cams will wear so be sure they are in good shape.
How did you drop compression ratio AND over bore ?? (Stock CR is 9.5:1) did you have the whole assembly balanced or just the inidvidual pieces? if so how fast did they spin the assembly?
If all you are adding, prior to boost, is the serect cams then based on your specs you will probably make ~160-165Hp@ the flywheel. You are dropping compression remember. the internals might be a bit lighter so you might hit 170HP but with just SC swap you are not gonna see 30HP gain, sorry. Remember the compression drop is gonna cost power.
Also what is involved in the PnP, that can make a diff, esp if they do valve work. If you have the time drop me the spec in a PM, you are definatly doing somethings I would like to know more about.
Quoted post
Eddie, thats sounds about right when its all said and done, I was looking at the 170 range. The Wiseco Pistons come in a 9:1 compression Ratio, unless you request otherwise. The balancing im not sure, the crank is getting ground into spec, I dont know if they balance the whole thing or just the individual parts....i will find out.
As far as the head. The shop does a valve job and smooths things out, but the guy who is actually tearin my motor apart does some PNP work, so I am gonna have him do that.
I ordered my pistons from Karo at CarCustoms, and they were shipped today, so I will have them by the end of the week. I am hoping that It will be done in 2 weeks.
Also, as soon as its done, I am going next door to get a full exhaust.....I was thinking 3" from header back to rear suspension and then split it off and run dual 2.5" to each side.
Good Idea or should i stick with 2.5 the whole way?
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 10:10 AM
Originally posted by Spilner521@Apr 23 2005, 07:03 AM
nice build up :thumb: what size turbo are you running and what are you using for fuel management?
Quoted post
T3/T4 Hybrid. probably a .57 trim or Super 60.
Most likely for the time being.... larger injectors and Vortec FMU....as i increase boost, ill have to revisit that. I am still researching it.
any ideas?
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 10:11 AM
Originally posted by n4sir1085@Apr 24 2005, 08:03 PM
That is going to be very nice. I assume you already have 2.3 intake manifold and TB?
Quoted post
no, soon.
n4sir1085
04-25-2005, 11:12 AM
Depending on how much boost you're running, 3" should be good- maybe a little much for everyday driving, but it'll be able to handle it when you crank it up. Sounds like one beast of a LD9. I'm not terribly far from you, I'm just outside of Minneapolis- do you ever head this way?
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 01:22 PM
quite honestly ive been to MN like a handful of times...lol
n4sir1085
04-25-2005, 01:38 PM
Well you should let me know the next time you're in the area, I'd love to see the car.
Oldsman
04-25-2005, 02:48 PM
3" is not necessary. 2.5 mandle bent will work good for up to at least 15 psi.
3" is only really needed for 20 psi or more.
if you plan on running no mor than 15 psi then maybe check out the reflash. far as FMU use a cartech one.
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 04:26 PM
Thats what i was thinking...should i split it at the back suspension, or should i just run a single pipe?
n4sir1085
04-25-2005, 04:33 PM
Oldsman, you are correct. I re-checked what I said earlier, thought about it, looked up some stuff, and I agree- 2.5 will be just fine. My apologies.
Oldsman
04-25-2005, 04:51 PM
i would go with one pipe. reason being that at the point of the Y you will create a turblence and could increase backpressure. by how much not sure. but a turbo setup doesn't want backpressure being this increases turbo lag to a degree.
I have talked to a good friend that has a 10sec GN and has own a few other10-11 sec buicksover 7 years and he has gave me some good info. so this is where i get my info from.
AnderbrA
04-25-2005, 05:47 PM
From what i remember, the stock cat will flow just fine correct?
nguyen187
04-25-2005, 10:40 PM
don't forget to get your crank balance'd and cleaned up and also do the ARP head stud kit! other than that your good to go! Good Luck! oh yeah your labor price should be a whole lot higher! but if you can get it for that then coo.
Fast Eddie
04-26-2005, 01:21 AM
no clevite love or ARP on the bottom end :wtf: ??
BTW unless you specifically request it they do not balance the whole assembley at speed and some shops can't do it at all.
Spilner521
04-26-2005, 01:54 AM
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Apr 25 2005, 09:10 AM
Most likely for the time being.... larger injectors and Vortec FMU....as i increase boost, ill have to revisit that. I am still researching it.
any ideas?
Quoted post
if you can somehow get the reflash, that'd probably be the easiest way. you might have a hard time trying to find a dealer that will do it though. i know i cant find one around here.
other than that there are a few options. what i will be running if i can find a decent priced additional injector controller (AIC), is 4 additional injectors, placed just behind the stock injectors so they squirt right into the valves. car runs like stock with no boost and as soon as you hit boost, extra injectors kick in to deliver more fuel. with most AIC's you can set it to start delivering fuel at a certain rpm as well as a certain boost level, as well as modifing the duty cycle of the injectors, lengthening or shortening the injector pulses to add or subtract fuel where and when you need it.
you could also go the route of bigger injectors, adjustable FPR, cartech adjustable FMU, and the apexi SAFC. there's a bunch of boosted cavaliers running that same setup on j-body.org having great success. just remember when sizing injectors, they go by how much power you want to make, not how much boost you're running. if you're starting out with lower boost, you can get a little bit bigger injectors and pull fuel with the SAFC. then when you decide to crank up the boost later on, you have injectors big enough to support the power gain.
and of course you could always go with a stand alone unit if you've got the funds for it.
be sure to invest in a wideband o2 sensor kit if you havent already. its incredibly difficult to tune the fuel curve without it.
Spilner521
04-26-2005, 02:00 AM
oh yeah...as for the exhaust, bigger is better with a turbo. 2.5" may be sufficient enough at lower boost levels, but you'll benefit more from 3" piping from the turbo back, especially when you're planning on running higher boost in the future. it would be better to remove the cat, but if you want it in there, i'd suggest getting a 3" high flow cat. you want the least restriction you can possibly get. also, like oldsman said, just do a single pipe out the back, otherwise you're causing unnecessary resistance and turbulance with it split to 2 pipes.
AnderbrA
04-26-2005, 09:23 AM
I have the Turbo hardware itself down, but im still learning the whole Fuel System deal. that seems to be the more difficult part.
I dont know if i can use the reflash for an auto. I do have a spare ECU sitting around. But i dont know if they can do it outside the car.
So, the reflash will take place of the FMU and SAFC? I would still need FPR. Am i correct in that assumption?
Fast Eddie
04-26-2005, 10:08 AM
The reflash may do some things beneficial for boost but remember its only for a S/C running 6lbs, not a crazy 20+lb setup. It is also assuming you have the upgraded injectors, 2bar map, and the other things that come in the s/c kit. That is probably why you are having a hard time getting the flash done. If you care here are the calibration numbers I have manual is 88961331, auto is 88961332.
The fuel system is not really that difficult just some math. Basically if you can figure out the duty cycle the ECU is giving to the injectors you can get injectors close to the correct size. then fine tune the system with an AFPR. Ok its more complex than that in reality but its kinda hard to explain. Use a UEGO sensor for tuning for sure tho'
Oldsman
04-26-2005, 10:17 AM
if you build the motor for no more than 15 psi then if you can get the reflash go for it. but you would also need 2bar MAP and 310cc injectors.
Also the ECU can be reflashed without the car. in the instruction for the s/c it states you can either bring in the car or the ECU for the reflash.
far as the cat.....well with a turbo setup i would go with at least the same size as your exhaust so if running 2.5 then go with 2.5 cat. best case is to remove the cat if you can.
AnderbrA
04-26-2005, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by Fast Eddie@Apr 26 2005, 02:08 PM
The reflash may do some things beneficial for boost but remember its only for a S/C running 6lbs, not a crazy 20+lb setup. It is also assuming you have the upgraded injectors, 2bar map, and the other things that come in the s/c kit. That is probably why you are having a hard time getting the flash done. If you care here are the calibration numbers I have manual is 88961331, auto is 88961332.
The fuel system is not really that difficult just some math. Basically if you can figure out the duty cycle the ECU is giving to the injectors you can get injectors close to the correct size. then fine tune the system with an AFPR. Ok its more complex than that in reality but its kinda hard to explain. Use a UEGO sensor for tuning for sure tho'
Quoted post
looks like someone is gonna be helpin with my car when the time comes! :thumb:
AnderbrA
04-26-2005, 11:07 AM
Originally posted by Oldsman@Apr 26 2005, 02:17 PM
if you build the motor for no more than 15 psi then if you can get the reflash go for it. but you would also need 2bar MAP and 310cc injectors.
Quoted post
Some of the Jbods over on JBO are running up to 15 with the reflash with no problems....i dont know which route i want to go yet.
I would like to run a nominal 15psi....but it would be nice to know i could go to 20+ if i wanted.
Spilner521
04-27-2005, 02:45 AM
the reflash will work for the automatic as a few guys here have passed along to me. if you can get it, go for it. the 2bar map and 310cc injectors are easy to find. and if you want to go higher than 15psi, you can always add more to the fuel system down the road like bigger injectors, SAFC, etc. but remember...once you start getting into the 15-20psi range you have to start thinking about your transmission and cv axles and if they can handle the power the engine will produce at those high boost levels.
nguyen187
04-27-2005, 03:19 AM
Trust me when i say this, its not as easy as you guys are making it out to be, it is serious werk to get these things to run right and RELIABLE! oh yeah, patience!
One thing to look into is also the motor/tranny mounts! When i was running around 7psi i managed to tear my rear tranny mount!
Regardless good luck with that! I am also assuming there is an intercooler going somewhere in there & something to tune with? I didn't really read too much! If not see if Karo is still doing the Innovative group buy, i got the LC-1 & XD-1 from him!
Spilner521
04-27-2005, 03:30 AM
i know what you mean! its a lot harder actually getting everything to work together than just talking about it. motor/tranny mounts are actually something i've overlooked. will the motor mounts out of j-bodys work? and nguyen, i assume you replaced your tranny mount that was torn. did you use an aftermarket one or just a stock replacement?
nguyen187
04-27-2005, 03:52 AM
Yeah i replaced my tranny mounts with the ones from the Jbody vehicles but with some modifications, i got them from Karo! THe upper motor mount isn't compatible.
The inserts themselves are the same its just the inner sleeve needs to be bore out a bit, Its the same if you have a stick but i think its different mount if you have the auto!
With the quik drive around the block the other night i would say the tranny mount vibrations aren't all that bad, gotta wait til this weekend to really find out though.
AnderbrA
04-27-2005, 09:41 AM
Tony, I dont know how many times ive asked you and gotten the information, but im gonna ask 1 more time.
can you shoot me a list of the parts youve put into the kit?
Oldsman
04-27-2005, 12:26 PM
with the reflash it will handle up to 14.7psi
it takes some of the guess work out of it.
but for those of us who can't do the reflash then you have a lot of tuning and just trying to get it right. it is a pain.
for the motor mounts if you have the auto you can get the RSM mount for the 3400 and it works on the 2.4 with auto.
nguyen187
04-27-2005, 12:33 PM
Ummm, heres the list from my N-Body site, don't forget theres a lot of little things to do as well, like the oil feed and drain kit i got from, Turbo-Performance.com, and the aluminized mandrel pipings from JC Whitney, hose connectors from Air flow systems, check valves and vacuum hoses from wherever, and a WHOLE LOT OF LUVING! :-)
Oh Yeah my biggest problem when doing this whole thing really was the downpipe!!! NO exhaust shop wanted to even try it b/c it was so tight, but when i did find one they raped me for it (it really wasn't that nice, but it worked! So good luck with that.
Which turbo manifold did you end up going with???
Turbonetics T3/T4E
Chassiscraft Turbo Manifold w/ Jet-Hot 2000 Coating
Tial 35mm Wastegate w/ .3bar Spring
Custom 1" SS Dump Tube
Custom 2.5" SS Mandrel Bent Downpipe with a Flex Section
Eagle H-Beam Forged Connecting Rods w/ ARP Bolts
Wiseco 9:1 Forged Pistons
Mild Port & Polish (2005)
Competition Stainless Steel Valves (2005)
ARP Head Stud Kit (2005)
Customized Tranny Mounts (2005)
Clevite 77 Main Bearings
Clevite 77 Rod Bearings
Custom Crank Work
Spec III Clutch
Fidanza 8lb. Lightened Flywheel
TurboXS Boost Controller
Spearco Bar & Plate Style Front Mount Intercooler
Perma-Cool Oil Cooler
Apexi Blow Off Valve
Apexi Turbo Timer
Innovative LC-1 Wideband Controller w/ the XD-1 Digital Gauge and Datalogging (2005)
Accel Adjustable FPR w/ Autometer Gauge (2005)
Vortech 12:1 FMU
MSD Inline Fuel Pump Booster
Custom Intake piping w/ Arospeed Filter
Rs Akimoto Spiral Flex Piping
AEM Power Pulley Set Blue 6061 T-6 Billet Aluminum w/ a new belt
2.3 HO Intake Manifold w/ Throttle Body (Summer)
Custom Stainless Steel 2.5" Mandrel Bent Exhaust, No Resonator (Summer)
Magnaflow Street Series Chrome 6" Body Muffler w/ 4" Tip
NGK TR6 Plugs
RkSport Spark Plug Boots & Springs
Odyssey Lightweight Gel-Cell Battery PC680MJ
Lots of Heat Sheilding and Header Wrap for the Downpipe :P :P
AnderbrA
04-27-2005, 02:12 PM
I had a guy who was going to sell me a log mani for 100 bucks, but he ended up selling the whole kit to someone.....there are always mainifolds on ebay. $165 bucks.
AnderbrA
04-27-2005, 02:14 PM
Heres something interesting....JBody Performance does ECU reflashes to whatever specs you want.....heres the email that i got back from them.
We can not compleatly get rid of the speed limiter, but can push it to 255KPH...
the reflash is $750CDN, and we can make the pcm safely support 20PSI of boost...
at the moment we are doing basically the same thing for another customer but with a turbo set up...
thank you.
thats expensive, but if it eliminates a lot of hardware, it might be worth it.
AnderbrA
04-27-2005, 02:19 PM
And, Tony, what PSI are you running now....i know you said .3 bar, but i dont want to convert...lol...how is your stock ECU handling it?
Fast Eddie
04-27-2005, 02:23 PM
That's the same company that said it could remove any sensor you wanted, like EGR. Does it seem odd that they can remove any sensor and NOT the VSS?? Also If you need to change anything you need to send the ECU back to them for tweaking. NOt a real effective way to fine tune the car. I Would also ask them how they see so much boost with a 1 bar map sensor.
Best bet is to get the flash, if you can. Other wise MSD and some other piggy back FMU. That will allow you to dial things in between runs, or passes and will not take over a week to see and gains or losses or no starts :blink:
Oldsman why can't you get the flash? no one will do it or something else?
AnderbrA
04-27-2005, 02:29 PM
I heard its just hard to find a dealership that will do it.....Eddie, could you check around there in Omaha, im sure there will be a better chance there, than up here in SF.
nguyen187
04-27-2005, 09:01 PM
Reason i ask which manifold is because i was curious to where exactly they mounted the flange for the turbo, more or less is it closer to the crank pulley side or the flywheel side? That will determine where your turbo is mounted and thus how your pipings will be affected.
Boost i was running around 7psi, once i get the whole fuel thing figured out then i will turn it up but until then, just gonna take it easy!
As for the jbody reflash, not the GM one, i am really not too sure bout it, no one i know has ever had it done and not really sure it really works! If anything i would do the GM reflash for what your doing. I think it was Kane... somthing that ran a 13.1 on the reflash + Emanage!
My stock ecu is perfectly fine, its just that i have to trick it with the check valves, other than that its seems good. again i just need more fuel & timing control!
wy3134
04-27-2005, 09:16 PM
im not sure if you guys have looked into it, but would it be easier to possibly use a stand alone fuel management setup? although i cant say ive looked into that yet, mainly as im not that far along in my research, but the thought seems easier, although setting it up seems like the catch....any thoughts?
nguyen187
04-27-2005, 10:03 PM
the biggest catch is MONEY!!!
stand alones are nice but require a lot of work and tweaking to get it right, but they are simply expensive!
Oldsman
04-27-2005, 10:09 PM
Originally posted by Fast Eddie@Apr 27 2005, 12:23 PM
Oldsman why can't you get the flash? no one will do it or something else?
Quoted post
because the reflash is for 2000+. and i have a 99 they changed a few things between the years so the reflash may not work. but the main thing is the dealer see it is for 2000+ and you have 99 and they say no work.
there is a dealer by me that can do the reflash. Nosweat just had his done for the GM s/c and seems to work good.
Oldsman
04-27-2005, 10:11 PM
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Apr 27 2005, 12:14 PM
Heres something interesting....JBody Performance does ECU reflashes to whatever specs you want.....heres the email that i got back from them.
We can not compleatly get rid of the speed limiter, but can push it to 255KPH...
the reflash is $750CDN, and we can make the pcm safely support 20PSI of boost...
at the moment we are doing basically the same thing for another customer but with a turbo set up...
thank you.
thats expensive, but if it eliminates a lot of hardware, it might be worth it.
Quoted post
i would wait on them til they have a proven ECU's out in the field. but it could be promising.
Fast Eddie
04-28-2005, 12:21 AM
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Apr 27 2005, 12:29 PM
I heard its just hard to find a dealership that will do it.....Eddie, could you check around there in Omaha, im sure there will be a better chance there, than up here in SF.
Quoted post
I will call tommarrow @ work if I get a chance. I can think of one place that I may know a guy in the service dept. so I'll let ya know if I can get it done.
Olds, that sucks forgot about that since I have an '01.
Fast Eddie
04-28-2005, 05:42 PM
well talked to a couple of dealers shops, they know nothing about anything, even the one that is an authorized performance parts dealer (actually three guys who knew nothing there, before getting transfered to a V-mail) :rolleyes:
Finally got a pontiac place right by my house, that said if its just a recalibration with a number, which I have, it should be about 1HR so $80 and they would give it a shot. No guarantees.
Lemme know.
AnderbrA
04-29-2005, 09:21 AM
I know they can reflash the stock ecu....i was gonna have it done once, and it was gonna be 80 bucks....im not sure if that is going to be the S/C reflash or stock reflash, did they tell you?
Fast Eddie
04-29-2005, 10:05 AM
said they would try and pull the calibration number I have, which is the one for the S/C. Otherwise I would tell em its not worth it..........grab the ECU and run like hell......I ain't gonna pay for them doing nothing http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/blackeye/kaching.gif
AnderbrA
05-03-2005, 12:04 PM
Dropped the pistons off yesterday!!!! should have it done in a week or so!! i hope.
AnderbrA
05-27-2005, 12:56 PM
YAY it will be done next week!!
Spilner521
05-29-2005, 04:40 AM
sounds good :thumb: is the whole turbo project going to be finished with the engine, or are you just building up the internals to prepare?
Final-Reality
05-29-2005, 10:38 PM
255KPH? Sounds to me like it's a simple hex edit, then. As long as you know where the value is, obviously. A hexidecimal value of FF = 255 in decimal... I wonder if they set it to 00 if it will simply disregard the speed limiter? I really doubt you can set a speed limiter to 0KPH, but who knows :P
Fast Eddie
05-31-2005, 12:51 AM
/\/\ kinda out of nowhere but yes it is a simple hex edit, not sure if its a constant or in a table but most tuning is just modification of hex values in the PCM. Yes it is possible to set the speed limiter to 0. A guy on another board was going to set his 16 YO son's to 40 to keep him from getting another speeding ticket :eek:
you best post some pics when this is done foo ;)
AnderbrA
06-24-2005, 09:15 AM
yay its done.....picked it up last night and got it dropped in...only think left is to bolt up the front tranny mount, intake, and all wiring and hoses.... so about 2 hrs left. I will do that this afternoon....should be runnin by dark!!!
sooooo excited to have it back and running...
this is only the buildup...turbo isnt there yet....that is still to come...i want to get this thing broke in a bit before i throw a hairdryer on it....although I am going to start accumulating the parts.
teebo7
06-24-2005, 09:26 AM
Pictures!
AnderbrA
06-24-2005, 09:35 AM
looks like a stock motor...lol....everything that was done, was done on the inside.
Forged pistons...bored .020 over
Eagle Rods
Balanced rotating assembly
valve job
ported head
ld9 secret cam swap.
grand total so far.... approx $1,850
natedawg9640
06-24-2005, 03:36 PM
wow i have a friend that just ordered most of the same stuff for his Z24 cavi. he's plannin on 17psi... he just bought a new engine to do it to though.
AlbinoMonkeyRat
06-24-2005, 03:38 PM
dyno numbers!!!!
-Alero-
06-24-2005, 04:26 PM
nice and expensive!, maybe now yo ucan pwn some Oldsman ass lol! :lol:
Oldsman
06-24-2005, 09:21 PM
Originally posted by -Alero-@Jun 24 2005, 02:26 PM
nice and expensive!, maybe now yo ucan pwn some Oldsman ass lol! :lol:
Quoted post
na, we'll both own you..........................lol
Oldsman
06-24-2005, 09:23 PM
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Jun 24 2005, 07:35 AM
looks like a stock motor...lol....everything that was done, was done on the inside.
Forged pistons...bored .020 over
Eagle Rods
Balanced rotating assembly
valve job
ported head
ld9 secret cam swap.
grand total so far.... approx $1,850
Quoted post
did you keep the balance shafts? did you put in larger valves? did you use ARP studs?
-Alero-
06-24-2005, 10:22 PM
Originally posted by Oldsman+Jun 24 2005, 09:21 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Oldsman @ Jun 24 2005, 09:21 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin--Alero-@Jun 24 2005, 02:26 PM
nice and expensive!, maybe now yo ucan pwn some Oldsman ass lol!Â;-) :lol:
Quoted post
na, we'll both own you..........................lol
Quoted post
[/b][/quote]
lol i hope so, my car is in the shop :punch:
AnderbrA
06-27-2005, 10:00 AM
Originally posted by Oldsman+Jun 25 2005, 01:23 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Oldsman @ Jun 25 2005, 01:23 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-AnderbrA@Jun 24 2005, 07:35 AM
looks like a stock motor...lol....everything that was done, was done on the inside.
Forged pistons...bored .020 over
Eagle Rods
Balanced rotating assembly
valve job
ported head
ld9 secret cam swap.
grand total so far.... approx $1,850
Quoted post
did you keep the balance shafts? did you put in larger valves? did you use ARP studs?
Quoted post
[/b][/quote]
yes i kept the balance shafts...valves were reground(polished) and no ARP yet.
I do have one issue though....the thing vibrates and rattles everything....any idea what it would be? seems to run fine, but just vibrates the hell out of everything, I dont know if that is because of the cams or what...what do you think?
Final-Reality
06-27-2005, 08:46 PM
The cams arnet that aggressive so they shouldnt cause much more engine shake. Is it definately a shake that increases as the engine RPM does? IE is it definately the rotating assembly causing it to shake? Have you checked all engine and tranny mounts? Maybe bring it to the shop to see if they can tell what it is? IE maybe they made a mistake and didnt balance everything properly? Is everything bolted up tightly to the engine?
Oldsman
06-28-2005, 12:38 AM
if all the mounts are installed and tight and it shakes a lot.
pull it and pull the pan off and check rod and main bolts. if nothing you can see then take it back and have them rebalance it.
oh one last thing..........hows the timing? maybe your timing is off a little.
Oldsman
06-28-2005, 12:40 AM
so you didn't go really all out. just a mild build up. thats cool.
AnderbrA
06-29-2005, 09:16 AM
Yeah, not going to wild with it.....ok heres an update, it still vibrates pretty bad.....everything is bolted up fine, the thing that does concern me is the breather tube coming up that circulates the exhaust back through the intake smokes.....a lot more than usual. Could it be a timing issue? I thought the timing was adjusted by the computer itself?
Oldsman
06-29-2005, 12:14 PM
timing is set with the cam dowel pins.
as long as you have the cams timed correctly then the computer will adjust.
AnderbrA
06-29-2005, 01:35 PM
How am I going to know if the cams are timed correctly? Would that cause it to shake and smoke through the breather tube
Oldsman
06-29-2005, 11:22 PM
if the cam timing is off it could cause a shake and screw with the engine.
to check cam timing, remove timing chain cover, belt, pulley, mount. by hand rotate the crank around til the timing mark on the chain gear on the crank and the mark on the timing chain housing line up (@ 12 o'clock) then you should be able to slip dowel pins into the timing holes on cam gears. they should slide in and out easily.
that is just one place i would start.
AnderbrA
06-30-2005, 10:15 AM
damn.....you want to do it for my Scott?
Oldsman
06-30-2005, 01:51 PM
lol................sure bring it on out.
AnderbrA
06-30-2005, 04:51 PM
im just tired of fkin with this....lol it just should work
Oldsman
06-30-2005, 05:35 PM
Originally posted by AnderbrA@Jun 30 2005, 02:51 PM
im just tired of fkin with this....lol it just should work
Quoted post
it's an Olds it never just works. you have to keep screwing with it til you get it to where it wants to be. which isn't always where it should be.
ptrudel
07-05-2005, 12:16 PM
Originally posted by Oldsman+Jun 30 2005, 05:35 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Oldsman @ Jun 30 2005, 05:35 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-AnderbrA@Jun 30 2005, 02:51 PM
im just tired of fkin with this....lol it just should work
Quoted post
it's an Olds it never just works. you have to keep screwing with it til you get it to where it wants to be. which isn't always where it should be.
Quoted post
[/b][/quote]
truer words have never been spoken...
then again, thats what makes workin on Olds interesting
Oldsman
07-05-2005, 04:44 PM
Originally posted by 2000_olds_alero+Jul 5 2005, 10:16 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(2000_olds_alero @ Jul 5 2005, 10:16 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Originally posted by Oldsman@Jun 30 2005, 05:35 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-AnderbrA@Jun 30 2005, 02:51 PM
im just tired of fkin with this....lol it just should work
Quoted post
it's an Olds it never just works. you have to keep screwing with it til you get it to where it wants to be. which isn't always where it should be.
Quoted post
truer words have never been spoken...
then again, thats what makes workin on Olds interesting
Quoted post
[/b][/quote]
thank you.
Interesting is not what always comes to mind in those situations............LOL
vBulletin v3.6.0, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.