View Full Version : Optima Batterys
alero_ecotec
03-10-2005, 05:19 PM
So I have a descent sized stereo system in my alero. I've always been thinking about doing one of 2 things, either getting an optima yellow top, or a capacitor. Now i've looked into both, and im good with electronics, so i dont need to be educated on capacitors or anything. But i could use some help on the battery part b/c im sort of left in the dark. So i was comparing the Optima Red Top and Yellow top......(note this is for the shorter side terminal battery so it will fit without modification) ... for the red top the tech. specs. from the optima website it says .... 720 cold cranking amps at 0 farenheit and 910 CCR at 32 farenheit......now the spec's for the yellow top... 650 CCR at 0 F ....and 810 CCR at 30 F......................now, i know im missing something here, but shouldnt more cold cranking amps be better, my guess would be yes, so if the yellow top is made for cars w/ sound systems, what's the deal with it having less CCA, can someone explain this to me.
Check it out for yourself. (2nd column on both)
Red - Red Top (http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/starter/technical_specs.html)
Yellow - Yellow Top (http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive/deep_cycle/technical_specs.html)
alero_ecotec
03-10-2005, 05:20 PM
and maybe this should be in Audio, Video form, but for some reason general performance was my 1st thought.
flalero
03-10-2005, 06:19 PM
I would go with the red top, it has higher CCA. I've had this in my car since I put my system in and had no problems. I've played music at full volume for atleast three hours and the car still cranked like a champ. It's not really the CCA amps that is the good thing about the optimas. They are a deep cycle battery. Meaning, you can run them way down and they will still provide excellent starting power.
i know a guy with a yellow top in an accord and the thing was nice...I would still like to get a red tho
BLK03GXS
03-10-2005, 08:26 PM
You awnsered your own question... the yellow has more WARM amps because your system is usually on when the car is allready started.. and warm...not when its off....
AftermathAlero
03-10-2005, 08:32 PM
for normal starting (no system or anything) get the red top.
For system (no matter big or small) get the yellow top or blue top. I got a blue top on my car. Its the same thing as the yellow but it has marine posts.
HAZED
03-10-2005, 08:50 PM
i was always told to get the red top for audio
alero_ecotec
03-10-2005, 09:34 PM
haha, so basically im getting 2 different anwsers
BLK03GXS
03-10-2005, 10:38 PM
Basicly...
Its real simple... Yellow top is designed for systems because it has a higher rating when hot, to provide power while the car is runing, like when you are poundin out the tunes, but you sacrifice some CCA's not a really big issue, unless your car is hard starting or if you live somewhere where its cold for a part of the year...
if you have or want to get a big system, get a yellow top.
Schimmel03
03-11-2005, 12:15 AM
I have a Yellow Top in my car and it works great for my system. Before I put it in my lights dimmed and I had troubles starting the car on cold days, put the yellow top in and it works like a champ.
*EDIT*
This comes straight from the optima batteries website...
"If your battery is used in vehicles that demand extra reliability and performance, or if you just take pride in getting the best performance out of your vehicle, OPTIMA RedTop batteries deliver the performance you demand."
"If your vehicle has a lot of accessories like running lights, high-performance stereo/AV system, winches, or hydraulics, your vehicle demands more from its battery. OPTIMA YellowTOP batteries provide the extra performance and deep cycling capability that your vehicle demands."
alero_ecotec
03-11-2005, 12:53 AM
ok, looks like i'll just go yellow top unless it crazy expensive....and im sure it must fit eventhough the dont say they have a battery to fit the alero
Schimmel03
03-11-2005, 01:04 AM
They say that, but I believe the only yellow top they make is a top and side post. so it works.
HAZED
03-13-2005, 11:50 PM
man that suck i ask the same thing on here they all said to get the red top $@####@! o well i hope i can still make a quick change
HAZED
03-13-2005, 11:52 PM
Originally posted by AftermathAlero@Mar 10 2005, 08:32 PM
for normal starting (no system or anything) get the red top.
For system (no matter big or small) get the yellow top or blue top. I got a blue top on my car. Its the same thing as the yellow but it has marine posts.
...... :eek: u going swimming?
So what model number yellow top do we get?
Schimmel03
03-14-2005, 12:16 AM
I believe its 34/72. I may be wrong on that number, but i'm pretty sure thats what it was. They only make one yellow top too if I remember correctly.
msualero
05-01-2005, 02:11 PM
im running the factory battery to start my car...and i have an optima yellow top and 1 farad cap in the trunk..my total system is running about 3,000 watts rms...or 7,000 watts max power..on the stock alternator and havin no problems
UnoWHO
05-01-2005, 11:02 PM
I work at Advance Auto Parts, and we have some stupid TV guide/AAP show on ALL day so I ear about sutff while im bored and one thing it talks about is the optima batteries. What the Optima Batteries in general are for, are those poeple who use their electronic accessories in excess(EX: playing subs and sounds while car off, Running neons and sound while car running, anything to do with electronics that exceeds the normal stock vehicle). Now greater detail
The yellow top is for those who have Non_Stock parts in their vehicle(this includes sound systems neons performance alternator anything electronic that didnt originally come on the vehicle). This battery is designed to last a very longs time while providing stability in the electrical system with all those extra parts. It can be recharged alot of times(im not sur ehte exact # but its high).
The red top is for a vehicle with stock parts but that are used ALL the Time. It ives the actual start up and running of everyday items efficient.
Now the Blue I have no idea but I know for sound systems and aftermarket electrical parts, the yellow top is the way to go, thats at leats what I remember from the optima commercial at work(it said something about yellow top being for sound but i cant remember exactly what so I wont repeat what i dont know.
jlenko
05-02-2005, 11:19 PM
I have a yellow top. I run the stereo (and it's a good sized one) at shows for 5+ hours with the car off.. and it sucks the thing right dry.. then I use my jump pack to start it when it's time to roll out. It recharges fully, with no bad memory effect.
Red top is not recommended for that use...
02Alero
12-10-2007, 10:32 PM
i have a very small system (300 watt amp) and i can get a red top for like $75 from a friend would this battery work alot better than the battery i have now that is bad (i think)
rustyballs_69
12-10-2007, 10:49 PM
Hell for 75 bucks you should buy it even if your battery isn't bad.
pawzbear
12-10-2007, 10:54 PM
I'm having starting problems with my yellow top. Its not saying the battery is low; rather showing that its fully charged but really lags in cranking. Can sometimes take 3 or more times to crank >=(
wtfff???
pawzbear
12-10-2007, 11:32 PM
problem started the minute i installed the battery. no starting problems before.
racin4JC
12-10-2007, 11:42 PM
Cold Cranking Amps aren't affected when the car is running it is for obviously cold starts when your oil is severely heavy (I'm from ND trust me it is -10F right now I know what I am talking about). So you can't judge the battery by that when considering stereo stuff.
cherrington17
12-11-2007, 12:53 AM
geeze... you guys and thread ressurections...
and just to clarity, red top batteries are NOT deep cycle. Only the yellows and blue are.
Vinman
12-11-2007, 07:42 AM
hey with the ressurections, it makes it easier to search for things...
I wouldn't mind getting an optima, I'm probably not going to be running a system so i'd get the red top. I'm still running on an unkown battery, most likely a never start or something like that. I'll worry about the battery when I replace the H/U or vice versa
if you want to get a good deep cycle dry cell, im running 2 stinger SP1000's in my car and they work great, its just a little expensive for them
Redog
12-11-2007, 02:57 PM
I have the red in the Alero, and Yellow in the Delta
Both are great
OrionAlero
12-21-2007, 11:40 PM
I have 2 yellow tops in my car to control all the neons, audio, and video and i can leave my all my equipment on running stereo full blast for 6 hours and still be able to crank my car right up without hesitation, I have done it several times at different car shows. Yellow tops give you more power and allow you to run your equip. longer.
lol i highly doubt that you can play your system for 6 hours and it will start up after that, either your system sucks or your full of it. i have 2 stinger sp1000's with a 2.0 cap and if i leave my headlights on for 6 hours the battery is dead, stinger > yellowtop imo aswell.
cherrington17
12-22-2007, 07:54 AM
a yellow top is like 700A... which means your headlights are pulling more then 100A/h? your wiring is jacked somewhere grim...
OrionAlero
12-22-2007, 01:26 PM
You know you talk a lot of crap for not knowing much, and if your headlights make your battery die, then obviously whoever wired your car has no clue what there doing, or you just have crap in your car like you have in your mouth.
yea because i dont have 10000k HIDS?
and btw when you have your headlights on its more then just your headlights on, gauges on, all of your brake lights, your signal lights, so its more then just HIDs pulling power, but you would have known that if your so great with wiring
cherrington17
12-22-2007, 07:19 PM
even still... ~100A/h is a rediculous amount of energy. thats like running a small generator. there is NO WAY your headlights get anywhere near that. and don't even tell me your gauges/brake lights are getting close to that. thats b.s
brake lights are like what? 20w...each? interior lights maybe 20W....total?
OrionAlero
12-22-2007, 10:12 PM
Exactly what cherrington17 said! I have to say gr1m your comments give me a good laugh. You really have no clue at all.
Cliff8928
12-22-2007, 11:17 PM
even still... ~100A/h is a rediculous amount of energy. thats like running a small generator. there is NO WAY your headlights get anywhere near that. and don't even tell me your gauges/brake lights are getting close to that. thats b.s
brake lights are like what? 20w...each? interior lights maybe 20W....total?
Headlights are 55w each for the low beams, fogs are 27.5W each if i remember right. The tail lights and front signals are 8w for the low filament, 27W for the high filament. The sidemarkers, license plate light, etc.. are 3.78W each.
alright so i guess i was lying when i had to use a coat hanger to get into my car since my batteries were dead and my door poppers were useless
cherrington17
12-23-2007, 08:11 AM
i'm not saying you were lying about your car being dead, i'm saying either your batteries aren't what they say they are, OR, you have some bad wiring somewhere that drained them quicker then they should have.
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