Ball Joints???

[Silver SLP]

Okay, so I've done a lot of research and I think I may have narrowed my "popping" noise down. Just wondering what you guys think...

The popping noise happens when hitting the brakes (load shifting to front of car) and when turning the wheels to the left and going in reverse, especially when accelerating, (taking the load off of the drivers side front wheel) although the popping sound is NOT rotational. From my research, this sounds like the symptoms of a shifting ball joint.

All bushings are good, no abs lights or anything like that. No vibrations at all either. I have tried moving the tire at 12-6 and 9-3 but I can't feel any movement. Tire wear is even.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[theirishpope]

Okay, so I've done a lot of research and I think I may have narrowed my "popping" noise down. Just wondering what you guys think...

The popping noise happens when hitting the brakes (load shifting to front of car) and when turning the wheels to the left and going in reverse, especially when accelerating, (taking the load off of the drivers side front wheel) although the popping sound is NOT rotational. From my research, this sounds like the symptoms of a shifting ball joint.

All bushings are good, no abs lights or anything like that. No vibrations at all either. I have tried moving the tire at 12-6 and 9-3 but I can't feel any movement. Tire wear is even.

Thanks in advance for the help.

03glgold has a popping noise on his as well, his is due to his suspension having issues if i recall correctly.

[03glgold]

I am fairly certain my issue is the strut mounts

[MMGT1]

I would guess the strut mounts or the rear bushing on control arms, closest to firewall. Check those before you go further

[Silver SLP]

Thanks for the replies.

I forgot to mention that I have brand new struts and strut mounts. I was told by GM that the popping was the result of a bad strut mount. It is not.

[Silver SLP]

I would guess the strut mounts or the rear bushing on control arms, closest to firewall. Check those before you go further

How should I check the rear bushing on the control arm? Just look for signs of wear?

Thanks.

[MMGT1]

When jacked up you can look for visual signs of wear. Another thing to do is this... Jack it up and get wheel off, do the usual safety stuff like jack stands not just jack holding the car, and chalk the tires so she's not going anywhere. You need a long 2x4, 6' plus if possible. Place one end under the control arm as close to the rotor as you can get it, I'm balzy and would just go under the rotor...lol You lift the 2x4 taking the control arm and strut assembly through as much of the range as you can muster. Put the 2x4 on end, face to suspension you can break it pretty easy. You should hear your noise this way and be able to pin point its location

[Silver SLP]

When jacked up you can look for visual signs of wear. Another thing to do is this... Jack it up and get wheel off, do the usual safety stuff like jack stands not just jack holding the car, and chalk the tires so she's not going anywhere. You need a long 2x4, 6' plus if possible. Place one end under the control arm as close to the rotor as you can get it, I'm balzy and would just go under the rotor...lol You lift the 2x4 taking the control arm and strut assembly through as much of the range as you can muster. Put the 2x4 on end, face to suspension you can break it pretty easy. You should hear your noise this way and be able to pin point its location

Ok thanks, I'll give that a try. One thing I noticed when I am jacking the car up, I hear a popping noise similar to what I mentioned. This is definitely not the jack because I tried it on the other side and it will not replicate the sound. But it will every time I jack up the drivers side wheel.

[MMGT1]

Then do as I suggested on the left side. Once you have that 2x4 working the suspension up and down sounds like its going to be easy to find

[Silver SLP]

So just to clarify, do as you suggested on the right (passenger) side and have someone listen on the drivers side?

Thanks.

[MMGT1]

wow, I'm stupid...lol Left side man, drivers side like you said. I'd still check both to make sure it's only one side making the noise though

[Silver SLP]

No, it's all good man, I just wanted to clarify. I appreciate your help!

[Silver SLP]

Well today I got a chance to take the wheel off again. I put the 2x4 where you said and I could get a little bit of noise. I also noticed a couple indentations/scratches on the sway bar right in front of the rear sway bar bushing. I'm thinking this is a result of the bad bushing?

This is not an actual picture of my car, but I drew where the indentations are. I also checked the sway bar bushings and those look good.

[billytheman1188]

The scratches on the sway bar are probably from when it was installed. Mine got scratched up too.

[Silver SLP]

I guess that's possible. But it is original, not aftermarket. I thought it might be from hitting something repetitively when stopping or turning because the bushing is bad.

[billytheman1188]

I guess that's possible. But it is original, not aftermarket. I thought it might be from hitting something repetitively when stopping or turning because the bushing is bad.

Ahhh ok....shoot, i thought it was aftermarket. oops.

[MMGT1]

Check the hold down bracket its self, they crack over time where they attach to the car. If it's OK, you've blown the bushing. Either way, cheap fix man

[Silver SLP]

Check the hold down bracket its self, they crack over time where they attach to the car. If it's OK, you've blown the bushing. Either way, cheap fix man

You're talking about the metal sleeve, correct? Thanks for the help man!

[MMGT1]

yes, exactly

[Silver SLP]

Well I ordered a new Moog bushing last night. I'm hoping I can replace it without completely removing the control arm. I'm going to purchase an air hammer/chisel from harbor freight to push the old one out. Hopefully a C-clamp and some luck will get the new one in.

For anyone interested, I also found this. http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_107_En.pdf

[Silver SLP]

Here's what mine looks like. I don't see anything wrong?

Today for whatever reason when I was jacking the car up, the popping sound would only happen if the wheel was on the hub. I took the wheel off and raised and lowered the car again and it would not make the sound. I used a huge crow bar and moved everything I could in the suspension and I could not hear the popping sound. Then as soon as I went for a ride again and hit the brakes, I could hear it again.

The dark spot on the bushing towards the left on the second picture is just where some dirt got rubbed off.

[MMGT1]

Your looking at the wrong thing bud. Sway bar bushing/bracket is were you would be getting scratches from on the sway bar its self. Inspect the sway bar bracket on that side, it is in the pic on the left, above the a arm and a little further in

[Silver SLP]

Yeah, the pic above is of the control arm bushing. I figured if it was bad it could cause the arm to move and hit the sway bar? And there seems to be 3 distinct scratches/indentations on the sway bar where the paint is gone. Probably 6 or so inches away from the sway bar bracket and bushing.

So you're saying it's the sway bar itself that is moving? The bracket and bushing looks good on that too.

Sorry for the confusion and all the questions, I'd just really like to finally figure this out.

[MMGT1]

Yea man, from what you are describing I think the issue is the sway bar in some fashion

[Silver SLP]

Okay awesome man. I know it's hard to diagnose without actually looking at the car, but after going to 5 different shops without any help, it's great to at least have something narrowed down!

Edit :
I just noticed that there are the same scratches/indentations on the sway bar on the passenger side. I put a wrench on the sway bar end link and it would turn without any effort. Then I also put a wrench on the opposite end and tried tightening it and it actually seemed quite tight. There is a plastic spacer in there where a rubber one is usually used, so I think I'll order the Moog one which uses all rubber pieces.

I read that if you disconnect the sway bar end links, your sway bar is virtually useless, and that can help eliminate a possibility.