View Full Version : Coolant Bleeder Screw
DeeJayy
01-26-2013, 02:04 AM
How do i remove the old one if the nut is off from the top? Do I just unscrew it or do I have to do something else? lol. Kinda don't wanna touch it til I work on my car. Ill post a pic of it tomorrow if needed.
RalphP
01-26-2013, 11:52 AM
Huh. You mean the bleeder valve is out of it, or that there's a plug there instead?
Pics will be nice.
RwP
DeeJayy
01-26-2013, 05:25 PM
This is it, Hence why I have to replace it lol
http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy53/djsolano88/IMG695_zpsb289a401.jpeg
RalphP
01-26-2013, 07:54 PM
Ah.
Dorman #902112 (what I ordered for spares before my Malibu's motor decided to die on me) comes with the OUTER portion also, so you'd just remove it, and replace.
Dunno about the AC Delco part.
RwP
sleepyalero
01-26-2013, 09:04 PM
I heard nothing but negative things on dorman parts.
RalphP
01-26-2013, 10:54 PM
They've had some really good stuff, some really bad stuff. They also make for GM, Ford, and Chrysler ...
The bleeder screw is rather hard to screw up in manufacture.
Besides, guess who does the "Help!" family of parts.
RwP
DeeJayy
01-27-2013, 02:01 PM
Do I just take out this one? Or is there somthing I have to do to take it out lol. (Don't wanna lose my coolant before I replace it).
RalphP
01-27-2013, 04:48 PM
Make sure the car is on level ground.
You'll still lose a small bit, but nothing major.
RwP
DeeJayy
01-27-2013, 06:06 PM
Make sure the car is on level ground.
You'll still lose a small bit, but nothing major.
RwP
Thanks! A big help!
RalphP
01-27-2013, 10:49 PM
Well, consider that, on level ground with the motor cold, you open the bleeder so that air can run to the highest point (the bleeder screw) and vent out ... technically, you should lose maybe 1/4" of everything that's above the manifold it's in.
'Course, now that I say that, you'll have it on enough of a slope it's about 1 gallon down .. *grins* Still, a quick retop with 50/50 premix (or mix your own with distilled water!) and you're good to go.
Or even top off with pure antifreeze - it should NOT push you much past the current mix (if 50/50, maybe 51/49 or even 52/48 ... )
RwP
DeeJayy
01-28-2013, 10:55 PM
Well i'll be replacing it tomorrow when i have no coolant in and then once i'm done ill bleed it.
billytheman1188
01-28-2013, 11:05 PM
Well i'll be replacing it tomorrow when i have no coolant in and then once i'm done ill bleed it.
Do you know how to bleed it properly?
DeeJayy
01-28-2013, 11:07 PM
Yeah, turn heater on full blast and put car in normal operating temp and bleed it.
RalphP
01-29-2013, 12:42 AM
Yeah, turn heater on full blast and put car in normal operating temp and bleed it.
Actually, no.
For the 3.1/3.4, it goes more like:
Refilling
Notice
When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOLâ„¢ coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOLâ„¢ is added to the system, the engine coolant will require change sooner: at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months.
Close the radiator drain cock.
If previously removed, install the engine block drain plugs.
When installing the drain plugs, use pipe sealer GM P/N 12346004.
Important
On vehicles equipped with the 3.1L engine, open the coolant air bleed valve. The coolant air bleed valve is located on the top of the thermostat bypass pipe/heater pipe assembly. Close the valve once a continuous stream of coolant is expelled from the valve.
Fill the surge tank to the base of the filler neck.
Start the engine with the pressure cap off. Run the engine until the upper radiator hose starts to get hot.
If the coolant level in the surge tank is low, add the proper mix of coolant until the level reaches the full cold line.
See the highlighted portions.
Do NOT open it when hot! Unless you just want 200F water spraying all over your hand ... and possible other body parts.
RwP
DeeJayy
01-29-2013, 01:15 AM
Actually, no.
For the 3.1/3.4, it goes more like:
See the highlighted portions.
Do NOT open it when hot! Unless you just want 200F water spraying all over your hand ... and possible other body parts.
RwP
That's weird lol.. Everybody has told me the other way. I just don't simply turn it all the way where it sprays at me.
RalphP
01-30-2013, 07:55 AM
The bleeder screw(s) are at the high point(s) of the cooling system on level ground. All you need to do is to open them up and let the air bleed out while filling the system.
I would HIGHLY recommend the factory method instead. Safer, cleaner, and what's to say there's air there if the system is running at temp?
RwP
vBulletin v3.6.0, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.