View Full Version : 3.4 Pacesetter Headers
XanderWiFi
03-16-2011, 08:23 PM
I ordered a brand spankin' new set of ceramic coated headers, gaskets and locking bolts from WOT-TECH and I am excited to see how they look/feel/sound. As far as I know, no one else has installed a set so I will play the guinea pig for this. As much as I would like to wait for the WOT-TECH brand, I lack the skills and equipment to keep my car running indefinitely. So I would like to see what can had with what is available.
With the CAI, headers, high flow cat, pacesetter exhaust and upcoming billet mount I am looking into some dyno tuning as well. Probably cheaper to buy a tuner but I cannot risk damaging my daily driver.
More to follow.
hok666
03-16-2011, 08:39 PM
must have install pics or thread useless................... . . . . . . .. .. .. . .
XanderWiFi
03-16-2011, 08:40 PM
Hence the "more to follow." Have to get it first.
sleepyalero
03-16-2011, 10:11 PM
I want a vid to see how the pacesetter exhaust sounds. Cause as it is now I love how it sounds. Been wondering what it will sound Like with headers.
XanderWiFi
03-17-2011, 11:42 AM
Will do. They have youtube vids with only the exhaust and how it sounds. If you look up the "exhaust" thread I made people have posted examples.
I just want to build up the anticipation. But I think it will be a couple weeks before it comes in, then the install time.
kwhauck
03-17-2011, 11:48 AM
You should do a before and after dyno results.
Shiwnath
03-17-2011, 12:06 PM
Hope they turn out to be good.
sleepyalero
03-17-2011, 12:19 PM
Will do. They have youtube vids with only the exhaust and how it sounds. If you look up the "exhaust" thread I made people have posted examples.
I just want to build up the anticipation. But I think it will be a couple weeks before it comes in, then the install time.
Oh okay ill look later. I looked on youtube couldn't find a 3.4 with headers and pacesetter exhaust.
You should do a before and after dyno results.
X2
XanderWiFi
03-17-2011, 01:14 PM
Not a bad idea. I will have to figure out how to post videos though...
I was not able to find any videos with the pacesetter headers AND exhaust. But they do have videos of just the exhaust. I am pleased with how mine sounds and looks.
sleepyalero
03-17-2011, 01:17 PM
Yeah I have the exhaust on my car and love how it sounds. Just wonder how it will sound with pacesetter headers.
XanderWiFi
03-19-2011, 11:06 PM
Here's the first look at them. I plan to have them installed on Monday. Does someone know how to upload video? I could shoot a short one, e-mail it to them, and they could upload it.
Here is a question though: I purchased separate gaskets from Ben that are individual to cover each port. Pacesetter sent gaskets that cover three ports at a time. You can see them as the blue single ones, and the two black ones. I am unsure of which ones to use or which would make a better seal.
Also, the bag of bolts has locking bolts to seal the parts together to the engine better. This is the ceramic coated version of the pacesetter. I thought about sending it out to have it coated, but Ben had told me that pacesetter's ceramic coating worked very well (175 extra) so the saving of shipping costs and money to have it aftermarket coated seemed like it would be a lot more.
More to follow.
Cliff8928
03-20-2011, 12:18 AM
Conceptually, their downpipe setup looks better than the other options that used to be available.
XanderWiFi
03-20-2011, 02:16 PM
How so?
Cliff8928
03-20-2011, 11:29 PM
Well, look at the S&S...
http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/MMGT1/CarUpgrades031.jpg
or TOG...
http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt329/GAInstinkt/togheaders.jpg
It just looks like the way the pacesetters come together at the 3 collectors would promote some better flow.... Now just if there was someone who could actually test it.
sleepyalero
03-21-2011, 12:09 AM
looks good, cant wait to see it. i would say whichever gasket you use is really up to you. im not sure which is better, but Ben wouldn't give gaskets that wouldnt work or seal correctly.
XanderWiFi
03-21-2011, 12:13 AM
I'm pretty excited. Either going to put them in tomorrow or Tuesday. Depends on how long my guy says it takes to do the job. Anyone have an approximation of time from previous install? It comes with a list of to-do's for installation and if the list is accurate, seems like a longer job.
How would something like this be tested? I would imagine that pacesetter would have done that prior to putting something out. Otherwise, why not just sell the stock tubes?
sleepyalero
03-21-2011, 12:29 AM
well my buddy put headers on his gfs tiburon gt. i was there the whole time, it was a little over 6 hours. lol
also you could just put the video on youtube, and just leave us all the link to get to it.
kwhauck
03-21-2011, 08:43 AM
You need to dyno, before you put the headers on, and then after too.....
kwhauck
03-21-2011, 08:45 AM
Well, look at the S&S...
http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/MMGT1/CarUpgrades031.jpg
or TOG...
http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt329/GAInstinkt/togheaders.jpg
It just looks like the way the pacesetters come together at the 3 collectors would promote some better flow.... Now just if there was someone who could actually test it.
With designs so similar, it's funny how on most of the dynos i've seen the s&s made a couple more peak HP, but TOG had a more linear curve....
XanderWiFi
03-21-2011, 11:37 AM
Unfortunately, I won't have a before and after dyno per installation. I messaged a company here about their rates but I have not heard anything back. I am not even sure if El Paso has a place with dyno tuning. Which is surprising...considering how many ricers run around here.
Unfortunately they don't make s&s or TOG anymore so I can't get too bent out of shape for which is better until Ben puts his product out. Until then, this is the best thing out there for our 3.4s.
kwhauck
03-21-2011, 12:09 PM
It is usually $50-$100 for 3 pulls
AleroB888
03-21-2011, 02:47 PM
......................... Until then, this is the best thing out there for our 3.4s.
I think I would go with them too, if I needed headers right away. The location for the oxygen sensor actually looks better in the Pacesetters than the other two, and that is important. I'm not seeing where the EGR is going to hook up, though.......
kwhauck
03-21-2011, 02:57 PM
who needs EGR?
AleroB888
03-21-2011, 03:27 PM
who needs EGR?
Somebody without tuning capability, or in some states where you just gotta have it to pass smog tests.
kwhauck
03-21-2011, 05:55 PM
You don't need EGR to pass smog test, I passed in Colorado with the charger with no problems......
XanderWiFi
03-21-2011, 05:55 PM
Yeah, it's my daily driver so I need it legit. I'll let the mechs figure that one out though. I couldn't tell you where each thing goes anyway because I've never examined it that far or closely.
Cliff8928
03-22-2011, 02:10 AM
I'm not seeing where the EGR is going to hook up, though.......
It's hangin' off the one primary like a wart. The rear header is upside down in the pics.
kwhauck
03-22-2011, 08:30 AM
Good eye cliff! I didn't look very closely at the pacesetter pics....
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 11:33 AM
It's hangin' off the one primary like a wart. The rear header is upside down in the pics.
Lol my bad. Just kind of did a mish mash piece together. It is at the shop now and hopefully complete in a few hours. As long as someone doesn't break into my car and steal them out the back...which is possible for this kind of neighborhood.
kwhauck
03-22-2011, 11:34 AM
lol.......right, cuz everybody is running around looking for alero headers to steal out of somebodies car........lol
cherrington17
03-22-2011, 11:43 AM
most thieves don't care what it is or where it goes, as long as its worth money....
Cliff8928
03-22-2011, 01:29 PM
Probably just has to be shiny, not even worth money.
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 02:35 PM
Probably just has to be shiny, not even worth money.
Indeed. Someone send me their e-mail who has a youtube account. I'll send a video and they can upload. Can't figure out my old youtube password.
Ttop191
03-22-2011, 02:55 PM
^ ttop191@gmail.com i'll throw it on YT for you
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 04:18 PM
Much appreciated. I'll get it to you asap.
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 08:52 PM
I got them back and...not sure how I feel. Sound hasn't changed that much, no difference in feeling, just a lot of engine surging when I am idling, and of course: now I have a check engine light. Anyone know what that is about?
sending the video now.
mfuller
03-22-2011, 09:15 PM
You have chaged the airflow dramatically, and so now you probably need a tune. Any leaks would explain the surging, and may be the source of the CEL.
Can you pull the code for the CEL?
AleroB888
03-22-2011, 09:19 PM
I got them back and...not sure how I feel. Sound hasn't changed that much, no difference in feeling, just a lot of engine surging when I am idling, and of course: now I have a check engine light. Anyone know what that is about?
sending the video now.
You may have a vacuum leak or a sensor not plugged back in.
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 09:46 PM
Vacuum leaks around the headers? Or other? And how the heck do I find them? I do not have a scanner to pull a code and I work 12s the next two days so I won't even be able to get it near a shop. CEL?
It only has that one sensor right? I saw that it was plugged in. However, with these headers you do have to extend the electrical line to have the sensor reach-which they did.
I also have nice puddle of radiator fluid that is coming from the passenger side somewhere and not the water pump. Somewhere lower.
Overall, I am pretty fucking pissed. I am uploading the video now so hopefully you can get a better look.
mfuller
03-22-2011, 10:02 PM
Check
Engine
Light
You could have a leaky header gasket.....you could have a leak around one of the joints, a leak at the EGR tube, a leak at the O2 sensor (did they use a proper harness to extend the wires???). Also, Pacesetter headers are notorious for leaking at the Y-pipe.
The coolant could be coming from the water tower, or the heater bypass hose that is press-fit into the LIM.....
AleroB888
03-22-2011, 10:08 PM
Vacuum leaks around the headers? Or other? And how the heck do I find them?
No, vacuum leaks can be anywhere after the MAF sensor. Just make sure the air hose clamps at the MAF and throttle body are not loose, and that the tubes normally attached to the intake manifold are connected. Then confirm that the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, MAP sensor, EGR valve, TP Sensor, Idle Air Control are all plugged in.
................I also have nice puddle of radiator fluid that is coming from the passenger side somewhere and not the water pump. Somewhere lower.
Check hoses going to the heater core, and anything near the headers that could have been disturbed during the installation.
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 10:21 PM
Sounds like I will be going back to the shop to demand an inspection...
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 10:23 PM
Until then: I'm not going to blow up am I?
whiterider00
03-22-2011, 11:04 PM
did they use a proper harness to extend the wires???
probly not. thats most likely where the cel is coming from. if they just cut and spliced in more wire, youre gonna get a code. youre also gonna need a new sensor and the proper harness extension.
XanderWiFi
03-22-2011, 11:42 PM
Pacesetter just sent out extension wiring. Where can you get a harness?
Here is the video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STy3EgDDv9o
Lemme know what your guys' thoughts are.
Mike The Canadian
03-22-2011, 11:53 PM
Clean Alero and nice sound. The idle is very odd though, does the car perform normally otherwise? (You said you didn't feel any gains?).
Dude where the hell can I go to be wearing shorts right now? Snow is in the forecast tomorrow!
Keep us up to day on what the problem is
Shiwnath
03-22-2011, 11:58 PM
Not bad. Wish my alero was a clean as yours lol. I wonder if the PCM just needs to adjust to the change, but then again if it did, your car wouldnt be surging like that I would assume...just a hiccup here and there at most.
Cliff8928
03-23-2011, 01:30 AM
Pacesetter just sent out extension wiring. Where can you get a harness?
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1159
I think that's the one you'd need.
Lucalare
03-23-2011, 01:42 AM
Almost sounds like it has a miss, try doing a power balance test. If you search for those exact words I think I've explained it all on here before.
edit: This is where I talked about it, not a super great explanation but if you're mechanically inclined you should be able to figure it out
http://www.aleromod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33074&highlight=power+balance+test
whiterider00
03-23-2011, 01:55 AM
anyone else notice the taillights dimming when the engine surged? no idea if its related or not, but probly not a good thing.
Lucalare
03-23-2011, 01:57 AM
It's because when the engine slows down it doesn't make as much power off the alternator. With a stock spec alternator your lights get a little dimmer even at idle, so really that's nothing bad.
Ttop191
03-23-2011, 09:33 AM
^ that exactly
whiterider00
03-23-2011, 12:00 PM
thats what i was thinking, but i didnt realize it cud be that noticable.
Lucalare
03-23-2011, 02:42 PM
Normally it wouldn't be but that engine is slowing down a lot more than it should.
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 02:55 PM
Clean Alero and nice sound. The idle is very odd though, does the car perform normally otherwise? (You said you didn't feel any gains?).
Dude where the hell can I go to be wearing shorts right now? Snow is in the forecast tomorrow!
Keep us up to day on what the problem is
Hell Paso, TX. Welcome to sun city and the desert. I hate it here.
The car runs-as far as performing normally. But I cannot tell you because something is out of whack with it right now.
If it needed an extension harness wouldn't pacesetter have given a warning? Why would splicing in more wire throw a code? So long as it gets the proper wattage shouldn't it just function?
I thought that the PCM would need to adjust but this surging is pretty troublesome-and it should have corrected by now. Does it at idling or when I come to a stop. If that O2 sensor is malfunctioning, could that throw off the idle as well? A sensor issue seems much easier to fix than finding a leak...
Temps seem to run normal to lower at times, with higher spikes...worried about the radiator leak. Could the headers opening up the airway keep the engine temps cooler though?
Ttop191
03-23-2011, 03:09 PM
if you alter the sensor wiring you change the resistance of the it's output wiring therefore throwing off the signal voltage it is sending to the PCM, sounds to me like there is a loose connection in that splicing they did, so the signal is constantly changing and the pcm is trying to adjust fuel levels based off the incorrect signals it is receiving
datwonguy
03-23-2011, 03:26 PM
well isnt that sweet!!
Ttop191
03-23-2011, 03:29 PM
^ how long ago did you buy them, when pacesetter first released these they were having the tranny clearance issues, but they have since fixed that. Also, i know a few people on GAGT forums just shaved off some of the tranny housing to fit in the first batch of pacesetters, as far as i know, none of them have had issues yet and it's been a few years
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 03:34 PM
That makes sense regarding the wiring. It would be awesome if that were the remedy to this medly of problems. I just bought them last week, the version that corrected the clearance issue.
However, it does sound like that knock around like hell. Sounds like my engine is falling out. Any solutions to that?
Appreciate the compliments thus far though. Believe it or not, my car is uber dirty right now too. Was almost ashamed to post the video about it. I will post something much nicer once I get everything in line. My wife told me last night: "Can't you please just leave Angel alone? I worry the next mod you do may put her in an early grave. She is eight years old..." I said: "Um...I'll see honey." Lol.
Ttop191
03-23-2011, 03:48 PM
just listened to the video again didn't sound like a knock at all, more like a rattling heat shield
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 04:16 PM
Which I had before with only the exhaust, but I guess it is worse now with the larger pipes and fiercer airflow.
I'll check it out Luca, but i don't think this is an instance of a miss.
Ttop191
03-23-2011, 04:20 PM
definitely not missing, engine still sounds smooth, i would bet on heat shields
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 05:10 PM
Here's a question: If they cut and spliced the wire to the O2 sensor, will un-splicing it, reconnecting it, attaching a harness illeviate that problem? I didn't see it, but sounds to me that if resistance is an issue, it is simply ruined now.
In essence: how the heck do I reverse this?
mfuller
03-23-2011, 06:23 PM
Where did they make the splice? If it was between the O2 sensor and it's weatherpack connector, you can just get the harness extension from Casper's Electronics and a new O2 sensor. Install and you should be good.
If they cut the O2 weatherpack connector off the main harness, you're kinda SOL.
I'll bet dollars to donuts if you fix the O2 sensor the surging goes away. If the PCM can't get a good reading from the O2, it kinda goes into limp mode a bit....almost like it would when unplugging the MAF sensor (unless you have done a good VE tune).
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 06:33 PM
I concur. But I am unfamiliar with what you mean by the wiring. Weatherpack connectors and such...I would know: male/female ends and the wire in between lol.
The coolant leak is a matter of tightening things back up. OR in a perfect world, a lot of it pooled around my engine compartment and didn't spill until I stopped in my garage and not at all my other stops in between...hmm...I am thinking a leak lol.
XanderWiFi
03-23-2011, 10:08 PM
So I overheated on the way home and had to be towed. Fucking happy days. So now that it looks like this leak has drained my radiator reserve dry, what do I have to look forward to in making sure that the cooling system functions properly? Because if it has run out, then I am sure it is full of air.
Mike The Canadian
03-24-2011, 01:18 AM
Crap, that sounds awful. As for bleeding the system of air. There's a brass valve that needs to be opened (It's on the top of that black thing that goes across the engine, it connects to the coolant reservoir and engine). Hopefully someone can chime in with a pic; however be careful with the brass valve as it's easy to snap (brass is really soft).
The real concern with this however is how hot did you get? These engines use aluminum heads which can warp very easily if the car overheats. I'd be worried about head gaskets more than anything at this point. Hopefully all is well though, gotta track down that leak. Take the car back to the shop because it seems like they screwed you.
Cliff8928
03-24-2011, 01:27 AM
I concur. But I am unfamiliar with what you mean by the wiring. Weatherpack connectors and such...I would know: male/female ends and the wire in between lol.
The coolant leak is a matter of tightening things back up. OR in a perfect world, a lot of it pooled around my engine compartment and didn't spill until I stopped in my garage and not at all my other stops in between...hmm...I am thinking a leak lol.
Well, by weatherpack (it's actually a MicroPack 150) he means the connector to the oxygen sensor. Did they splice on the sensor side of the harness or the engine side of the harness?
It's not actually that hard to repair it if it was on the engine side of the harness, you just need the right tools and parts.
XanderWiFi
03-24-2011, 12:41 PM
It didn't go into the red type of overheating. I had been keeping a close eye on it and set the limit at the 3/4 mark. Once it started to touch above that point I shut it down and called for a tow since I have roadside assistance.
I asked him about the cable and he said it would be easy to reverse since they just spliced more wire into the existing wire. I am thinking that they will be paying for the new O2 sensor, harness and anything in between for this bullcrap. I paid $320 for the installation and labor and they didn't even put in the shiny aftermarket bolts that I bought from Ben because the guy said that he pulled an executive decision and thinks the stock bolts will be better.
I am trying not to blow my lid, but i am getting close with it.
I will say this though: with the headers, you can hear the increase airflow getting sucked through the CAI much more. That aspect is pretty cool.
JLw7123
03-24-2011, 01:02 PM
sounds like that garage did something to your car. Did the mechanic give you a reason why he used the stock bolts. Was the coolant reservoir full when you took the car to the garage. because it should not empty that fast unless you have a leak somewere. you should not have to pay for them to fix it because they are the ones who messed it up.
Mike The Canadian
03-24-2011, 01:03 PM
It didn't go into the red type of overheating. I had been keeping a close eye on it and set the limit at the 3/4 mark. Once it started to touch above that point I shut it down and called for a tow since I have roadside assistance.
I asked him about the cable and he said it would be easy to reverse since they just spliced more wire into the existing wire. I am thinking that they will be paying for the new O2 sensor, harness and anything in between for this bullcrap. I paid $320 for the installation and labor and they didn't even put in the shiny aftermarket bolts that I bought from Ben because the guy said that he pulled an executive decision and thinks the stock bolts will be better.
I am trying not to blow my lid, but i am getting close with it.
I will say this though: with the headers, you can hear the increase airflow getting sucked through the CAI much more. That aspect is pretty cool.
Good call on not letting her overheat! I understand your frustration; sucks on them not putting on Ben's bolts. If Ben recommends it, it's very likely that its a smart choice. Hopefully the shop gives a crap about their reputation and takes care of your car
XanderWiFi
03-25-2011, 12:17 PM
So far it looks like the u2 sensor cord melted on the manifold. There was too much air in the coolant system and it may have broke the release valve. I asked about why they didn't use bens bolts and they told me that the bolts they put on are made of a stronger material. That's the news so far.
AleroB888
03-25-2011, 12:50 PM
So far it looks like the u2 sensor cord melted on the manifold. There was too much air in the coolant system and it may have broke the release valve. I asked about why they didn't use bens bolts and they told me that the bolts they put on are made of a stronger material. That's the news so far.
Reminder: Also make sure the power steering hoses are insulated and not touching any header pipes. If one of those leaks you'll have a hell of a mess, it happened to one of mine.
XanderWiFi
03-25-2011, 03:56 PM
Thanks. I bought header wrap to wrap those. I will throw up pictures later to show the spots I wrapped so others can refer to them. Header wrap will work for insulating those right?
Everything seems to be cool now, and I do enjoy having them. I stopped at a place that does tuning but apparently I have to buy an hptuners kit to get dyno tuned-bummer.
The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. Is there any other way to correct that other than a tune? I know if you run lean for too long you will burn the valves out and whatnot.
Looks like I have to convince the wife for some more money...
Lucalare
03-25-2011, 04:04 PM
Thanks. I bought header wrap to wrap those. I will throw up pictures later to show the spots I wrapped so others can refer to them. Header wrap will work for insulating those right?
Everything seems to be cool now, and I do enjoy having them. I stopped at a place that does tuning but apparently I have to buy an hptuners kit to get dyno tuned-bummer.
The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. Is there any other way to correct that other than a tune? I know if you run lean for too long you will burn the valves out and whatnot.
Looks like I have to convince the wife for some more money...
You could put the stock air box back on, or in some way restrict air flow into or out of the engine until you get a tune. Yes it defeats the purpose of having headers but you definitely don't want to run lean and have to rebuild/replace your heads.
XanderWiFi
03-25-2011, 04:57 PM
Unfortunately, I don't have the stock box anymore and I doubt I would take the time to run that all over the place again lol. I spoke to ben who said the lean code could be a leak that is letting outside air in. Anyone know a quick and easy way to diagnose a leak?
When I saw a lean code I told the guy that I can't have that because of burning up the engine components. He was surprised that I was so knowledgeable about the inter-workings of things. I can thank you guys for helping me out with this and everything else.
In any case, I plan to get that tuner and get a tune and then go back and look for exhaust leaks. Another $500 out the window...
AleroB888
03-25-2011, 05:11 PM
.........The only bad part is that my SES light remains on because I am running lean now. ...
Did that surging of the idle up and down get corrected?
What particular code is it reading now? Does the code take some time to reappear if the code is reset by the scanner?
XanderWiFi
03-25-2011, 08:08 PM
Here are the two locations I have found that could use protective heat wrap due to their proximity to the new headers. There is a line in the back of the engine (a real pita to wrap...) that I believe is a steering pump line. The other is obvious in the front. Look for the gray wrapped tubes-can't believe a layer or two of that will keep them from burning...comments welcome.
XanderWiFi
03-25-2011, 08:16 PM
Here is the problem with the SES light: because of my overlay, I can't see it unless I am in dim lighting. And since I live in the sun city, I was only in a dimly lit area when I pulled into my garage at home-done with the daily activities.
Right now I do not know what code it is throwing. Before it was throwing a radiator code (needed to be bled off), an o2 sensor code (because the line at gotten burned on the header, and a lean code. The first two issue have been corrected though it still does surge a little bit here and there but overall, idles decently. So I believe it to be the lean code.
Now what really sucks is I work forever and don't have any days off to investigate further...so I just have to hope I am not too lean or there isn't a huge issue.
AleroB888
03-25-2011, 11:24 PM
Here is the problem with the SES light: because of my overlay, I can't see it unless I am in dim lighting. And since I live in the sun city, I was only in a dimly lit area when I pulled into my garage at home-done with the daily activities.
Right now I do not know what code it is throwing. Before it was throwing a radiator code (needed to be bled off), an o2 sensor code (because the line at gotten burned on the header, and a lean code. The first two issue have been corrected though it still does surge a little bit here and there but overall, idles decently. So I believe it to be the lean code.
Now what really sucks is I work forever and don't have any days off to investigate further...so I just have to hope I am not too lean or there isn't a huge issue.
The setup looks good, a lot better than my TOGs at this point. What you have wrapped looks adequate, but the steering hose I mean is accessible from under the car. It already comes with some heat wrap on it stock, but I would put some more on it anyway. It may be OK as it is, but you should raise the car and inspect it.
Here is a list of the O2 sensor codes and Rich/Lean codes. Sometimes they will pop up one time, then when cleared, not reappear after the PCM corrects for it. Some codes need 2 successive failures to trip:
http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Gflash01/DTCscreen.jpg?t=1301108675
You still may have an O2 "heater circuit" or "slow response" code, which can happen when changing exhausts.
XanderWiFi
03-26-2011, 12:22 PM
I will have to check the attachment later, work will not display it right now. I am going to call summit racing and have them send out a new O2 sensor with a harness to lengthen it. By the way, if you put these headers in, you will need approximately 28" of extension for the O2 sensor relocation. The sensor and line seem easy to get to so I will put that in myself and hopefully it will take care of it.
You can clear the computer by disconnecting the battery cable and tying the +/- ends together for 15 minutes right? Maybe I will do a couple clears to see if that works...but clearing will clear the PCM settings too so things will just cancel out I bet.
I am buying the hptuners pro from ben. That will hopefully put an end to everything.
XanderWiFi
03-26-2011, 02:55 PM
Will this fit on the sensor? Does the sensor itself have a plug to plug into?
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=11_36&products_id=1162
As for the sound of the headers, I was hoping for a little more. It isn't ricey with the "raaaaaaan" sound; it isn't the deeper power "brum-brum-brum-brum" but more of a "br-br-br-br." This is when driving or revving.
AleroB888
03-26-2011, 05:21 PM
Will this fit on the sensor? Does the sensor itself have a plug to plug into?
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=11_36&products_id=1162
..........
This is one with the factory harness end next to it, your plugs may be light gray instead of black:
http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Gflash01/001-14.jpg?t=1301174135
XanderWiFi
03-26-2011, 10:06 PM
I think I saw the steering line. Does it run perpendicular to the pipes at the back of the engine?
It looks like that extension would fit our plugs...
Cliff8928
03-27-2011, 09:52 PM
This is one with the factory harness end next to it, your plugs may be light gray instead of black
Yeah, and the gray plug (Planar style sensor) is not the same as the black plug (thimble style sensor). While they *basically* work the same, the plugs are not interchangeable.
99-00 should be black, 01-04 should be grey.
XanderWiFi
03-27-2011, 11:31 PM
I purchased this sensor: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-21516/
And this extension: http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=11_36&products_id=1160
That extension is under the pontiac grand am and is listed as the gray wire so I hope it works. Hopefully, the combination of these will alleviate any sensor code issues.
Cliff8928
03-29-2011, 01:04 AM
Yeah, that should work just fine... I have that exact style MP150 connector on my desk, it's the right one for the '01+
XanderWiFi
03-29-2011, 11:18 AM
Thanks Cliff. Any word on that specific line B888?
AleroB888
03-29-2011, 03:48 PM
Thanks Cliff. Any word on that specific line B888?
It runs along close above the back subframe beam and also under the downpipe (perpendicular to the downpipe)
XanderWiFi
03-30-2011, 07:35 PM
I traced all lines coming out of the power steering pump, the nearest rubber section is at least 6 inches away. The part that runs underneath and near the down pipe are metal. Looks like it has enough clearance to not have any issue.
a.graham52
04-13-2011, 10:20 PM
hate to bring up old news but how did you make out? did the idle smooth out?
XanderWiFi
04-14-2011, 11:35 PM
I will do a final write up when I get all the SES lights off. I bought the items I listed above from the site recommended on this same thread, installed them, cleared the computer and started up with no SES lights and a smooth idle.
However, when I took it for a drive, shut it down, then turned it back on the SES light had returned. I imagine this is because it is still running lean as it was coded for such in a prior scan.
The idle is smooth now though and the sound is really growing on me. I am waiting on Ben to get a tuner in stock and send it to me so I can get it tuned and hopefully make that lean code disappear...
When I get everything wrapped up I will make a new video and write up for you guys.
Shiwnath
04-14-2011, 11:50 PM
I'm glad the pacesetters worked out for you in the end man, you deserve it after all the BS u had to go through lol.
XanderWiFi
04-15-2011, 12:45 AM
Yeah, it was just a crappy install that made everything go poorly. Everything after has been gravy for the most part. Just a little heater wrap, a little calibration...nothing too terrible for a mod that supposedly gets a solid 15+ hp.
However, a fan blade guard occasionally bumps it and melts some plastic off. Anyone know about some slimmer fans that fit the 3400?
a.graham52
04-15-2011, 07:27 AM
if its just the guard then trim it
sleepyalero
04-18-2011, 05:18 AM
good to hear it all worked out in the end.. im thinking about getting some ceramic pacesetter headers here soon idk yet.. found a set for 407$.
bshatney
04-21-2011, 03:01 PM
i just got my 99 alero coupe 3.4 the other day. i've been looking around but i cant find anything other than cheap ebay intakes. im wanting to do the basic upgrades such as intake, headers, and exhaust but what is a good performance upgrade to start with, and where the heck can i find parts for it? lol i just signed up on here so im new to it. i really appreciate any help with this and i cant wait to get some money into it and make it a heck of a sleeper!
sleepyalero
04-21-2011, 03:12 PM
Most people on here have either ebay or another intake for a car.. really an intake is an intake. Just if you get the ebay one put a different filter on it. I've got the ebay one... as for exhaust you can google it.. there's pacesetter and flow master. You can youtube those to see which you like better. Or magnaflow but pacesetter was my choice
As for parts... WOT-TECH.com or milzymotorsports has parts for our car.. I think I have one other website bookmarked on my comp but im on my cell typing this so I can't remember off hand.
I have a 3.4 too. Got a high flow cat, pacesetter exhaust, intake, ngk plugs. Painted the upper intake. Added hids.. new 18 in rims.. spark pplug wires... painted the headlights on the inside and cleared the corners... I love the look of these cars.. check out the site some more it will be helpful.
And welcome to the site.
XanderWiFi
04-21-2011, 03:38 PM
Go thread jack somewhere else noob. Try searching too.
sleepyalero
04-21-2011, 05:14 PM
I agree I was just trying to be nice lol. ;)
He should have posted the question in the new member section. But I just said what the hell and answered it.
spc2125
04-21-2011, 05:18 PM
it says the youtube video has been removed. any chance you could update that when you get a chance. i really like to see you it came it.
good work nonetheless, must have been so aggravating
XanderWiFi
04-21-2011, 05:57 PM
I agree I was just trying to be nice lol. ;)
He should have posted the question in the new member section. But I just said what the hell and answered it.
I know. Mostly it's a playful tone, but since I am the first i know of to get these headers it would be good to keep the thread pure until I could get the final write up completed.
I removed the youtube video because it was taken when i had all the issues. tomorrow I get the engine tune and I will post a new one with (hopefully) all ailments alleviated and it will be freaking awesome. And...I think I sound like a queerball so I want one up where I am not talking lol.
update tomorrow.
sleepyalero
04-21-2011, 07:32 PM
Hahaha yeah and I wanna get those headers but idk I don't want em rusting. But I hear those rust too so idk lol my buddy has black long tube pacesetters on his TA they are a little rusty...
XanderWiFi
05-18-2011, 07:49 PM
no more engine codes. tune and new video to follow soon.
Hahaha yeah and I wanna get those headers but idk I don't want em rusting. But I hear those rust too so idk lol my buddy has black long tube pacesetters on his TA they are a little rusty...
every thing is going to rust with time
sleepyalero
05-18-2011, 08:53 PM
good to hear
sleepyalero
05-18-2011, 08:54 PM
every thing is going to rust with time
true..
xXManwhoreXx
06-03-2011, 07:56 PM
if you downt want rust buy a powdercoat gun spray on some powder coat mixed with zinc phosphate and toss in the oven.
Than heat wrap it
eat mustangs
Profit ???
XanderWiFi
06-19-2011, 01:04 PM
Here is a little update on the 3.4 pacesetter headers install: I went to a different brake and muffler shop and asked if they could do anything about the pipe vibrating the heat shield like crazy and making that sound like crap. They succeeded in heating up and bending the pipe and no more shield vibration which is good.
There is always a black lining though in my stories...
Wife and I were cruising a bit and I gunned it to pass a car and..."foomp..brrrraaaathththththt." The fucking headers popped off in the rear or the damn exhaust detached from headers. I hope it is the latter.
Bullshit. FML.
XanderWiFi
06-19-2011, 01:08 PM
Good news! The exhaust just detached from the headers!
sleepyalero
06-19-2011, 01:54 PM
Not very good news :(
JLw7123
06-19-2011, 02:16 PM
how the hell did that happen.
XanderWiFi
06-19-2011, 11:39 PM
I'm assuming that when they heated and bent the pipe, they forgot to tighten that particular bracket down. It's better than the headers actually coming off. The force of me gunning it just shot the tubing out-but it is all still hanging in there. Just need to nurse it for a couple miles to the shop where the assholes are going to fix it.
Can't wait to be out of this town...
sleepyalero
06-20-2011, 12:41 AM
Damn man. Sorry to hear about all this crap your going through with them...
xXManwhoreXx
06-21-2011, 10:02 AM
Soo.. Fixed and video???
XanderWiFi
09-20-2011, 03:40 PM
After today, maybe. Just found out the original shop stripped a couple bolts on the front headers=leak=burnt gaskets=re-do!! Get it back today-should be a lot different than before I hope.
Update: headers are properly sealed now and where the front used to roar, it is more along the lines of a purr now. I can actually hear my exhaust again, which sounds much nicer. I am inspired once again.
XanderWiFi
01-14-2012, 06:12 PM
Here's the vids. Keep in mind that I have a 2.25" catback with these vids and not the 2.5 that comes with pacesetters.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeEpPYQSVPQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHDL8QPqI1U
alerogls001
01-18-2012, 03:52 PM
I think it sounds nice. Didn't know headers made that big of a difference. I had the Pacesetter exhaust which I liked but never got to the headers. In fact, I think they weren't available at the time anyway.
XanderWiFi
01-18-2012, 07:35 PM
It doesn't have the true pacesetter exhaust though. These videos were taken with a 2.25" catback, not the 2.5" that comes on the pacesetter exhaust. New videos to come when the exhaust is re-done.
XanderWiFi
01-27-2012, 11:26 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAh9t9mPW28
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