View Full Version : Just replaced my brake pads
TdotAlero
12-05-2009, 09:36 PM
I just replaced my front pads in the Alero (first time doing it myself). Anyway I did everything properly with proper tools, with help of a guy who has been doing brakes for a while now. Now after the process I pumped the brakes and was going to test drive it on the way home (40 kms on the highway). I noticed that now it takes a lot morefor me to press the pedal for the car to start braking. Also I noticed a lack of braking power. I 'flored' the pedal and the car slowed down gently without as much force as it used to before. Also throughout the drive I could smell quite a strong smell of brake dust coming from the front. Is there anything I did wrong ? I know the pads have to sort of 'brake in', but it just isn't as good as I expect the change to be. I switched to ceramic pads btw.
Chris2000
12-05-2009, 09:44 PM
1. Check your brake fluid level.
2. If you haven't replaced your calipers, take them into auto zone and they will give you a new one for your old one + 35$. So you could get 2 new ones for 70+tax instead of 200+ from a dealer.
jayson_waltz
12-05-2009, 09:45 PM
well just stomping on the brakes isn't the right way to break them in btw. but htat doesn't have anything to do with your problem. You didn't take the brake lines off did you? You obviously didn't need to, but if you did you need to bleed the front brakes and check your fluid level for starters.
TdotAlero
12-05-2009, 09:48 PM
I admit I forgot to check the fluid level after the job was done. As for the lines, I didn't touch them at all. All I did was remove the old pads, press the caliper, put new pads in and finished. So calipers are a must when you replace pads ? Sorry for being a total noob, just never done brakes in my life.
Chris2000
12-05-2009, 09:49 PM
well just stomping on the brakes isn't the right way to break them in btw. but htat doesn't have anything to do with your problem. You didn't take the brake lines off did you? You obviously didn't need to, but if you did you need to bleed the front brakes and check your fluid level for starters.
Meant to add the part about taking off the lines but i couldn't get my thoughts organized.
If you did take them off, bleed them like he said and then top off your fluid. if the problem persists then use my caliper solution.
No calipers aren't a must, but they wear out after years and years. and they get dried out after constant weather changes.
jayson_waltz
12-05-2009, 11:11 PM
if you didn't take the lines off, you should have enough fluid. and you shouldn't need to bleed then either unless you pushed the piston too far back into the caliper, but doubt that happened. If you had brakes fine before the pads i find it hard to believe you caliper is out, unless you did have weak brakes before also.
whiteliquid
12-05-2009, 11:25 PM
Mine did the same thing when i changed the pads a while back.
I bled the brakes, changed calipers, changed rotors, even tried new pads... all led to a little more mushy brake then was before.
SO all in all dont waste ur money on trying out new parts to diagnose ur problem. I think its just a wear and tear type of thing on ur lines and all other parts invloved with ur braking system.
If you stop safely, dont worry about it.
cherrington17
12-06-2009, 10:09 AM
mine did this. come to find out, the same time i did my front brakes, one of my rear brakes decided to have a caliper hose bushing start to leak.
:glare: PITA. i've never seen a car with so many brake problems as mine does.
Anytime you put on brake pads you need to keep it soft braking for at least 500miles ( not sure in km)... Did you turn your rotors? IF not you need to so that the new pads have some fresh metal to bond with.
Breaking is to drive at 50mph and slow to 15mph then goto 60 mph then brake to 10 mph... doing that will seat the pad to the rotors...
[ion] C2
12-06-2009, 12:45 PM
Time to put up the tools when you replace brake pads and your car brakes worse, :lol:
TdotAlero
12-06-2009, 01:28 PM
I just found out that the 'burning' smell that I thought was the brake dust was in fact my frying alternator..... yeah I know, fail. So I have some homework to do today... thanks Alero for a great bday present..
AndyT3
12-06-2009, 01:41 PM
I just found out that the 'burning' smell that I thought was the brake dust was in fact my frying alternator..... yeah I know, fail. So I have some homework to do today... thanks Alero for a great bday present..
You're lucky, she must really love you. :p
Nate's Alero
12-06-2009, 02:42 PM
yep, she loves you
TdotAlero
12-06-2009, 03:09 PM
Yeah only when she needs money ;) :D
Anyway just found out that on top of the alternator, the power steering pulley has cracked and snapped meaning my belt can't spin... flat-bedding it to work tomorrow and see what mechanics can do to save her.
Blown 346
12-06-2009, 04:45 PM
Unless the calipers piston (which you pushed in to get the new pads in) are frozen or the seal is leaking, you dont need to replace them.
Anytime you press the piston in you will raise the level of the brake fluid in the resovoir, and it could overflow causing low brake fluid. I would check the level, if the fluid looks black or dark brown, I would bleed the entire system, front and rears until clear fluid comes out on all ends. You do have to start at the passenger rear, then driver rear,then Pass front, then driver front.
a.graham52
12-09-2009, 09:52 AM
did the brake pads fit tightly into the bracket? you want them loose but not loose enough they rattle. a lot of the times i replace pads i have to remove some metal from the pads so they will slide free. otherwise they bind up and cause the symptoms you described.
paul ron
12-10-2009, 07:34 PM
Did you also do the rear pads? When I did just my fronts n rotor, I had the same weierdness happen to me. I then got rear pads n a new rotor for the rear and all is well again. It seems the rears were very worn to the nub and not braking at all. My rotors were rotted to the bone as well.
BTW I noticed the hat is rusting already after only a month on the car. I'm looking at other cars on the street, it seems their hats don't have any rust on em. WHY?
I got my rotors from Autozone, duralast gold 3 yr warantee.
mbeals
12-12-2009, 10:48 PM
Anytime you put on brake pads you need to keep it soft braking for at least 500miles ( not sure in km)... Did you turn your rotors? IF not you need to so that the new pads have some fresh metal to bond with.
Breaking is to drive at 50mph and slow to 15mph then goto 60 mph then brake to 10 mph... doing that will seat the pad to the rotors...
I've always broken in pads doing several hard near-stops from 20, 40, 50, then 60. Key is to NEVER come to a full stop and brake hard enough to heat up the rotors. When you heat up the brakes, some brake pad material bonds to the rotor. The friction between the pad and the transfered material is higher then between the pad and raw metal.
I agree, If your old rotors were glazed over from your old pads (especially if they were't ceramic), that may be a large part of the issue.
a.graham52
12-13-2009, 11:27 PM
I've always broken in pads doing several hard near-stops from 20, 40, 50, then 60. Key is to NEVER come to a full stop and brake hard enough to heat up the rotors. When you heat up the brakes, some brake pad material bonds to the rotor. The friction between the pad and the transfered material is higher then between the pad and raw metal.
I agree, If your old rotors were glazed over from your old pads (especially if they were't ceramic), that may be a large part of the issue.
according to the General... our only supposed to machine rotors if they are scored, rusted or have too much thickness veration. but not when repalcing pads. so if a car came into the shop and needed new pads... if the rotors looked good your only supposed to put new pads on and ship it out. but i do preffer a new rotor surface everytime you install new pads.
heres some info concerning brake "burnishing" right from GM's SI. Doc #317696 (99 olds alero)
"Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing
After replacing the brake pads and/or refinishing the rotors, burnish the new braking surface. Make 20 stops at the speed of 30 mph in order to burnish new braking surfaces. Use firm pedal pressure and stop at least every 15 seconds. Do not over heat the brakes."
mbeals
12-14-2009, 08:05 AM
I've never read GM's FSM. That was the procedure a buddy of mine who raced cross used and it has worked well for me....and yea, don't overheat them, but you have to get them up to temperature.
according to the General... our only supposed to machine rotors if they are scored, rusted or have too much thickness veration. but not when repalcing pads. so if a car came into the shop and needed new pads... if the rotors looked good your only supposed to put new pads on and ship it out. but i do preffer a new rotor surface everytime you install new pads.
heres some info concerning brake "burnishing" right from GM's SI. Doc #317696 (99 olds alero)
"Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing
After replacing the brake pads and/or refinishing the rotors, burnish the new braking surface. Make 20 stops at the speed of 30 mph in order to burnish new braking surfaces. Use firm pedal pressure and stop at least every 15 seconds. Do not over heat the brakes."
Don't you think that procedure will overheat the brakes anyway? I mean really, 20 stops? I used a similar procedure on a '89 camaro and the pads lasted 5,000 miles. I'll never do that again.
a.graham52
12-17-2009, 01:50 AM
Don't you think that procedure will overheat the brakes anyway? I mean really, 20 stops? I used a similar procedure on a '89 camaro and the pads lasted 5,000 miles. I'll never do that again.
its not written in that document obviously. but you are supposed to come to a near stop, drive at normal speed for half a mile, then stop again, do this 20 times. yes the brakes get hot but not hot enough to do damage (assuming all aspects of the brakes are functioning properly). that half amile between stops at like 50 should be enough to cool the brakes down enough. i have never had any problems with this and its what i do to all the vehicles that i work on.
its not written in that document obviously. but you are supposed to come to a near stop, drive at normal speed for half a mile, then stop again, do this 20 times. yes the brakes get hot but not hot enough to do damage (assuming all aspects of the brakes are functioning properly). that half amile between stops at like 50 should be enough to cool the brakes down enough. i have never had any problems with this and its what i do to all the vehicles that i work on.
Half a mile in 15 seconds? That's an average speed of 120 MPH.
a.graham52
12-17-2009, 02:15 AM
Half a mile in 15 seconds? That's an average speed of 120 MPH.
where do you get 15 secounds out of that?
according to the General... our only supposed to machine rotors if they are scored, rusted or have too much thickness veration. but not when repalcing pads. so if a car came into the shop and needed new pads... if the rotors looked good your only supposed to put new pads on and ship it out. but i do preffer a new rotor surface everytime you install new pads.
heres some info concerning brake "burnishing" right from GM's SI. Doc #317696 (99 olds alero)
"Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing
After replacing the brake pads and/or refinishing the rotors, burnish the new braking surface. Make 20 stops at the speed of 30 mph in order to burnish new braking surfaces. Use firm pedal pressure and stop at least every 15 seconds. Do not over heat the brakes."
From here. Did you post up the GM document on what not to do, or what?:huh:
No matter, I'll never try that nonsense again.
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