Last Ditch Effort... i really need alero help.

[TheEdgeofSanity]

ok guys, i'm in need here and I'm hoping I can get some answers because i'm losing hope in my dying alero.

i'm gonna break it down into sections of issues. here I go.

mechanical problems:

Problem 1:

code P0442: definition: BBEVAP (evaporative emission system) small leak/ no flow condition

code P0440: definition: BBEVAP (evaporative emission system) small leak/ no flow condition


**I know these aren't serious but they keep my "SES" light on, and i don't know if something serious is actually happening, so i would like it to be fixed. I have already replaced the gas cap with no luck.

Problem 2:

When the car is cold, it accelerates fine. I suspect i need a new thermostat because the car always stays at or slightly above the 1/4 mark and rarely gets over the 1/2 mark. So, when the car gets close to the 1/2 mark, it begins accelerating terribly. After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms go nuts where they increase, stay constant, increase, stay constant, ect. this all happens with the gas pedal held constant for any somewhat-quick acceleration. the car accelerates in a jerky manner and is feels as if its bogging down. I've been told it could be the following: bad TPS sensor, bad MAF sensor, clogged cat, or a bad torque convertor. any ideas?

**this is the single worst problem I am experiencing with the car right now.

problem 3

when running, car emmits a higher-pitched metal grinding/chattering sound. I cannot figure out what it is but it sounds bad.

problem 4

after car is warmed up, power steering does not work right. fluid at correct level is somehow overflowing the resivor and it is very difficult to turn the steering wheel when car is warm.

problem 5

coolant light comes on when car is cold and shuts off on its own. fluid level is correct and no loss of fluid is apparent

problem 6

my rear brakes squeal when i apply them in moderate breaking situations. also, when it rains, my brakes feel very very unresponsive and take awhile to "grab". if i hit the brakes as hard as i can, they still don't grab and my ABS will engage but makes the situation even worse. they never did this before (p.s. the pads and rotors were replaced early last summer and are not worn out)


structural problems:

my car has some suspension-related problems

problem 1:

last winter I slid off the road into a ditch and a tow truck pulled me out. I remember him hooking the tow strap to a metal arm going from the center of the back of the car to the driver side back tire. i think this is a control arm? anyway, during a recent tire rotation, i noticed that the bar is completely collapsed and I am wondering if this is why the rear of my car has been difficult to handle in rainy/snowy conditions due to misalignment. what is this part and how do I replace it?

problem 2:

car has a terrible creaking noise when I turn corners

appearance problems:

problem 1:

my car is rusting. badly. its on the inside bottom of all my doors and around inside trim of my hood and trunk. why is it doing this and how can i stop it?

problem 2:

my car was crashed before I bought it and the rear bumper that replaced the original seems to be rubbing on the metal it meets, causing a no paint situation and rust. My trunk latch hook is also rusting off. how do I remove the rear bumper to repair these problems?



I'd like to thank everyone in advance. If you have any insight to the problems I am describing, please give all available info!

I guess i've fallen out of love with my alero and it just may be time to say goodbye if it proves to be expensive problems. Its a great car, just mine is simply tired out.

[Atmosphere]

I'm experiencing an evap leak as well, I suspected it might have been the fuel cap as the light usually came on after getting gas. Replaced the cap with no luck. As far as the rust goes you can try putting a bit of oil on it, that will stop oxygen from reaching it and making it worse.

[Redog]

code P0442: definition: BBEVAP (evaporative emission system) small leak/ no flow condition


Usually mean the gas cap is not seated right, might need a new one, 440 code, don't know, Google it

When the car is cold, it accelerates fine. I suspect i need a new thermostat because the car always stays at or slightly above the 1/4 mark and rarely gets over the 1/2 mark. So, when the car gets close to the 1/2 mark, it begins accelerating terribly. After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms go nuts where they increase, stay constant, increase, stay constant, ect. this all happens with the gas pedal held constant for any somewhat-quick acceleration. the car accelerates in a jerky manner and is feels as if its bogging down. I've been told it could be the following: bad TPS sensor, bad MAF sensor, clogged cat, or a bad torque convertor. any ideas?


Sounds like a bad MAF to me. Had the same problems, replaced the MAF, but damn the car didn't like it at first

[Cliff8928]

DTC P0440 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System

System Description

The control module tests the evaporative emission (EVAP) system for a large leak. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. When the conditions for running are met, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge valve OPEN and the EVAP vent valve CLOSED . This allows engine vacuum to enter the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge valve closed, sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. If the system is unable to achieve the calibrated vacuum level, or the vacuum level decreases too rapidly, this DTC sets.

I'd check for leaks or a break in the EVAP lines.

[TheEdgeofSanity]

I'd check for leaks or a break in the EVAP lines.

how do I do this? what does the EVAP system look like?

[[ion] C2]

Problem 2
Torque converter clutch.
problem 3
A/C clutch.
problem 5
Sensor.
problem 6
Low fluid.

[cherrington17]

sell nate your car for an epic gain... buy new. too many problems to be worth it. :lol:

[TheEdgeofSanity]

sell nate your car for an epic gain... buy new. too many problems to be worth it. :lol:

lol, funny thing is that he WANTS my car. i don't even know how i'm going to sell this thing without putting money into it to get a decent amount back...

[TheEdgeofSanity]

i think since i'm now on summer vacation, i'll take it to a mechanic for the hesitation problem. i'm really hoping it isn't the torque convertor because that sounds super expensive to fix. i don't understand why it only happens when the car is hot because everything i've read about torque convertor failure says its worse when cold or at all operating temperatures. car runs fine when cold.

grr....

[cherrington17]

if your on summer vaca.. its the best time to learn how to fix it yourself.

lots of free time!

[TheEdgeofSanity]

i don't have the tools or know-how on how to remove a transmission. i want to take it for a diagnosis so i have a professional opinion of what is wrong before I go replacing everything with no results.

[Nate's Alero]

replace MAF to fix transmission problem

[[ion] C2]

i'm really hoping it isn't the torque convertor because that sounds super expensive to fix.

Torque converter CLUTCH. CLUTCH! Not the torque converter! This is just a tiny solenoid that locks the torque converter to the engine so it's directly connected like a manual. Small fix.

[Nate's Alero]

C2;465320']Torque converter CLUTCH. CLUTCH! Not the torque converter! This is just a tiny solenoid that locks the torque converter to the engine so it's directly connected like a manual. Small fix.

hahah, MAF and the clutch


fix and be happy

[Cliff8928]

C2;465320']Torque converter CLUTCH. CLUTCH! Not the torque converter! This is just a tiny solenoid that locks the torque converter to the engine so it's directly connected like a manual. Small fix.

The torque converter clutch is inside the torque converter. What you're referring to is the torque converter clutch solenoid.

[TheEdgeofSanity]

so... bottom line, do I have to take apart my transmission? i really dont want to have to do that. also, how do I get the MAF out of my car? i'm afraid to go pulling on it because that usually results in more things breaking.

[cherrington17]

MAF is cake.

Where your air intake comes in, there is a big square piece w/ some wires connected to it. Unplug the harness, remove the 4 hex screws. MAF pulls right out. Spray with carb cleaner, reinstall.

[Nate's Alero]

i will post a tutorial....

[Gr1m]

eh im bored ill help out:

When the car is cold, it accelerates fine. I suspect i need a new thermostat because the car always stays at or slightly above the 1/4 mark and rarely gets over the 1/2 mark. So, when the car gets close to the 1/2 mark, it begins accelerating terribly. After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms go nuts where they increase, stay constant, increase, stay constant, ect. this all happens with the gas pedal held constant for any somewhat-quick acceleration. the car accelerates in a jerky manner and is feels as if its bogging down. I've been told it could be the following: bad TPS sensor, bad MAF sensor, clogged cat, or a bad torque convertor. any ideas?
you can throw IAT into the mix aswell, its really hit or miss with these sensors.


when running, car emmits a higher-pitched metal grinding/chattering sound. I cannot figure out what it is but it sounds bad.

bad wheel hub/axle/cv joint or maybe something more simpler, maybe your wheel hub metal piece is rubbing against your rotor causing the annoying noise.


coolant light comes on when car is cold and shuts off on its own. fluid level is correct and no loss of fluid is apparent

bad coolant level sensor/short in the wire, i would see if you can get the actual plug that goes to the sensor and replace the sensor itself and splice in a new connector to it.

last winter I slid off the road into a ditch and a tow truck pulled me out. I remember him hooking the tow strap to a metal arm going from the center of the back of the car to the driver side back tire. i think this is a control arm? anyway, during a recent tire rotation, i noticed that the bar is completely collapsed and I am wondering if this is why the rear of my car has been difficult to handle in rainy/snowy conditions due to misalignment. what is this part and how do I replace it?

your trailing arm is probably bent and your rear wheels are not correctly positioned (one is more towards the front of the car then the other)

car has a terrible creaking noise when I turn corners

this could be from your upper strut mounts, if they are shot it will only make the noise at very low speeds. (ex. backing out of your driveway or making a 3 point turn)


my car is rusting. badly. its on the inside bottom of all my doors and around inside trim of my hood and trunk. why is it doing this and how can i stop it?

this is caused from shitty car washes, when you wash your car you should be cleaning inside your door jams and not letting that water sit in there because it will rust away at the car, the only thing you can do is spray it with 415 and this will stop the rust in its tracks and prevent it from getting worse

[Nate's Alero]

Let's See,

NEW: MAP, IAT,

Clean: MAF

there is your tranny problem

[cherrington17]

because it will rust away at the car, the only thing you can do is spray it with 415 and this will stop the rust in its tracks and prevent it from getting worse

whats 415? i've never heard that recommeded...

[Nate's Alero]

whats 415? i've never heard that recommeded...

i think its that paint over rust stuff, it can be matched to the car's factory paintjob, and it has a rust inhibitor in it, search POR 15 in google

[[ion] C2]

LMAO

It's Por-15.. not 415... and it's AWESOME!

[[ion] C2]

you can throw IAT into the mix aswell, its really hit or miss with these sensors.
I drove with him logging data, IAT functioned fine.

Were no DTCs at the time. Everything looked good (not sure how to read MAF lb/min numbers or what's normal though) besides the coolant temp took forever to rise, and never got to normal operating temp (195ish). He called me right after he left Speed Industry and said the coolant temp jumped to norm. op. temp. and the car started acting up. Of course I couldn't datalog it by then.

I couldn't find anything wrong before that, but I did find it odd the 3400s run like 40 some degrees of spark advance and that he can cruise at 45 with only 2-3% throttle lol.

[Nate's Alero]

C2;465834']I drove with him logging data, IAT functioned fine.

Were no DTCs at the time. Everything looked good (not sure how to read MAF lb/min numbers or what's normal though) besides the coolant temp took forever to rise, and never got to normal operating temp (195ish). He called me right after he left Speed Industry and said the coolant temp jumped to norm. op. temp. and the car started acting up. Of course I couldn't datalog it by then.

I couldn't find anything wrong before that, but I did find it odd the 3400s run like 40 some degrees of spark advance and that he can cruise at 45 with only 2-3% throttle lol.

i can cruise with 2-3% throttle, its great and i love it, probably what is responsible for the good gas mileage with a V6

what im saying is, his MAF and MAP and IAT need to be changed, i had the EXACT same problem, and i did those things and its a nice smooth shifting 4T45E again...

(he wont listen to a word i say)

[TheEdgeofSanity]

hmm....so, this clutch solenoid....do they go out often? would a transmission shop be able to diagnose it?

also, 2 new problems:

radio ticks.....only when engine is running. gets louder and quicker with more throttle

2. when I shut the car off, i hear gurgling water and don't know what it is

[Nate's Alero]

hmm....so, this clutch solenoid....do they go out often? would a transmission shop be able to diagnose it?

also, 2 new problems:

radio ticks.....only when engine is running. gets louder and quicker with more throttle

2. when I shut the car off, i hear gurgling water and don't know what it is

gurgling water is normal, mine does it also, its the heater core relieving pressure, and the ticking sounds like a ground loop

[misslindseysue]

It'll cost you at least $200 to get all of that professionally diagnosed if you don't commit to getting it repaired. A shop will usually take that off your bill if you get a lot of work done, but you're looking at well over $1k to get it running good.

Stop eating out, don't buy any new clothes, DVDs, music on iTunes, whatever... save up for a new car.

Don't drive very far and screw around for a while with the sales guy before they appraise your car if it drives best when it's cold. Chances are they won't even drive it, but you want to be sure it presents itself the best it can. Appearance is everything, so stop at Autozone on your way there and get codes cleared and make sure the inside and outside are spotless - that keeps them from looking too hard at anything else because it appears like you take good care of it.

[Gr1m]

C2;465833']LMAO

It's Por-15.. not 415... and it's AWESOME!
haha my bad was hittin the booze

[Nate's Alero]

any updates rich?

[TheEdgeofSanity]

update: i've not been driving the car. I'm graduating and the last two weeks have been very busy. I'm driving my dad's pontiac vibe and the alero is sitting in the driveway.

p.s., i washed it to get the window paint off it and noticed that my drivers window isn't seating right. i think one of the regulators broke because the back side of the window is sagging in. i'm afraid to open it.

[Nate's Alero]

update: i've not been driving the car. I'm graduating and the last two weeks have been very busy. I'm driving my dad's pontiac vibe and the alero is sitting in the driveway.

p.s., i washed it to get the window paint off it and noticed that my drivers window isn't seating right. i think one of the regulators broke because the back side of the window is sagging in. i'm afraid to open it.

dont. one of the clips broke..... verrrry common