View Full Version : Bleeding Coolant
[ion] C2
05-15-2009, 05:50 PM
We don't have a bleeder screw, so what's the best method to bleed the coolant? I have a crapload of air in the lines from an o-ring leak that I fixed yesterday. Temps still like to stick around the 203-210 range (with heater/fans on max)instead of the normal operating temp of 194-196 with heater/fans on 2nd setting.
I've run the car with the coolant cap off idling, raising RPMs a bit, etc. Seems when I go wide open while driving it helps to push the air out of the system, my temps go down to the normal desired temperatures but then go back up. Do I just need to keep driving hard until the temps stay where they should be?
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cherrington17
05-15-2009, 06:08 PM
i know on the 3400, there is a post w/ a tiny bolt in the top. you have the car running, loosen the bolt, till coolant leaks out, then tighten.
2.4, has to have something similar... i have no idea where though.
CactusWill
05-15-2009, 06:10 PM
Its been along time since I've looked at a 2.4, like at least 5 years, but enough heat cycles should take care of it. If you just took the air pockets on yesterday, adding coolant as necessary from a cold start over the course of the next week or so should work all the bubbles out.
[ion] C2
05-15-2009, 06:16 PM
Ya, figured it'd just take driving under different conditions to get it down. That's what happened when we put the built engine in..
CactusWill
05-15-2009, 06:30 PM
I dunno man, common sense would just tell me that elevation is the key, look for the highest point in the system, and if nothing is higher than the coolant reservoir cap, than all excess air will find its way there eventually. If there is a higher point in the coolant system than the radiator cap, than I'm sure it can be found, but I am pretty sure there isn't one on the 2.4.
DOHC_tuner
05-15-2009, 10:34 PM
Did you try to get it flushed yet?
Redog
05-15-2009, 11:47 PM
I dunno man, common sense would just tell me that elevation is the key, look for the highest point in the system, and if nothing is higher than the coolant reservoir cap, than all excess air will find its way there eventually. If there is a higher point in the coolant system than the radiator cap, than I'm sure it can be found, but I am pretty sure there isn't one on the 2.4.
This is exactly what I was thinking.
With the cap off, doesn't bubbles or coolant come out?
Vic28
05-16-2009, 12:04 AM
...........
the system will automatically get rid of the air in the system, it does this when the system pressurizes and will take a day or two of driving to complete.
worknprog.99
05-16-2009, 12:57 AM
i know on the 3400, there is a post w/ a tiny bolt in the top. you have the car running, loosen the bolt, till coolant leaks out, then tighten.
2.4, has to have something similar... i have no idea where though.
would that be the little bolt on top of the coolent by pass line on the waterpump side?
because mine constantly runs hot and i wander if its alot of air pockets due to the many times coolent gets drained and put back in
cherrington17
05-16-2009, 07:53 AM
would that be the little bolt on top of the coolent by pass line on the waterpump side?
because mine constantly runs hot and i wander if its alot of air pockets due to the many times coolent gets drained and put back in
yes. from where it says 3400, from the 3, go toward the front bumper and to the left slightly. The straight black post w/ a little bolt head on top. Thats the ticket.
[ion] C2
05-16-2009, 08:51 AM
the system will automatically get rid of the air in the system, it does this when the system pressurizes and will take a day or two of driving to complete.
I don't feel like waiting that long.
I found out the many-member approved method on JBO. That metal coolant line that was giving me troubles with the o-ring leaking is actually the main bleeding line. I have to make sure it's clear for flow (not bent like it is now) and run the car and squeeze the radiator inlet hose coming off the overflow tank, trying to push the fluid through the system and once coolant comes shooting out of that hose, it should be bled.
worknprog.99
05-16-2009, 02:39 PM
yes. from where it says 3400, from the 3, go toward the front bumper and to the left slightly. The straight black post w/ a little bolt head on top. Thats the ticket.
leave it to gm to do that lol
my subaru had an automatic realese valve
If you let it run witht the cap off to let the air bubbles find it way out is about the best way , but it will take sometime.. or you can drive with the A/C on and let it works it way out while driving...
hope this helps.
worknprog.99
05-16-2009, 04:57 PM
this is my last idea to figure out why it runs constantly over half
if you have air in your coolant lines an air pocket could be sitting near the tstat and would make the car's temp read higher then normal
jayson_waltz
05-18-2009, 12:07 AM
warm er up, fill with coolant, warm er up, fill with coolant,...
about all you can do is enough heat cycles as far as i know
[ion] C2
05-18-2009, 02:18 PM
So how should I flush it? Just open the draincock and fill it up with new coolant as the old drains out and then after a while close the draincock?
Because this stupid thing just won't bleed.
[ion] C2
05-25-2009, 08:04 PM
Fucking ridiculous. I cable tied the coolant hoses that are near/on the downpipe away from it, and wrapped them in heat shield material. And the coolant temps still end up getting up there (201-210 with all fans and heater on max).
And when I went WOT on the highway and let off, the temps go back down to 190-192, and then creep back up as I cruise. It's so retarded.
I mean I fixed my coolant/air leak, I wrapped the coolant lines around the turbo, and it still likes to run hotter than it should.
Bad99Olds
05-25-2009, 08:30 PM
C2;465526']effing ridiculous. I cable tied the coolant hoses that are near/on the downpipe away from it, and wrapped them in heat shield material. And the coolant temps still end up getting up there (201-210 with all fans and heater on max).
And when I went WOT on the highway and let off, the temps go back down to 190-192, and then creep back up as I cruise. It's so retarded.
I mean I fixed my coolant/air leak, I wrapped the coolant lines around the turbo, and it still likes to run hotter than it should.
welcome to the wonderful world of boost
[ion] C2
05-25-2009, 09:43 PM
Ya found another (or the same) oil leak, it's coming out of my oil feed gasket, gotta tighten that down.
Blew off another coupler while tuning too.
Stupid thing runs 192-215ish depending on what's going on. Meh. Not important.
C2;465526']effing ridiculous. I cable tied the coolant hoses that are near/on the downpipe away from it, and wrapped them in heat shield material. And the coolant temps still end up getting up there (201-210 with all fans and heater on max).
And when I went WOT on the highway and let off, the temps go back down to 190-192, and then creep back up as I cruise. It's so retarded.
I mean I fixed my coolant/air leak, I wrapped the coolant lines around the turbo, and it still likes to run hotter than it should.
Did you get a cooler running Stat?? also are you using the dex-coolant?
if you using the dex coolant dont it will clog up the system. also wrap the exhaust pipe that will help to keep the engine bay cooler...
and installing a 3rd fan on the front of the rad will help alot...
if you need more help Pm me ..
[ion] C2
05-25-2009, 10:30 PM
No, I have a stock thermostat. A "cooler" thermostat merely opens the coolant flow from the radiator earlier (at a lower coolant temperature), making it take far longer to reach normal operating temperature. Having the thermostat open earlier isn't going to cool down my temperatures.
Yes I use Dex-Cool, no it won't clog up the system. That's why it's been running perfectly fine for the past 9 years on it, and everything I've disassembled looks clean.
The downpipe has some wrap on it, and I'm getting a turbo blanket soon. Fans cool things down minimally. I should do a CO2 sprayer for my radiator, ha. Spray it whenever the temps get high.
EDIT: ANSWER
In case anyone was wondering, replacing the thermostat solved the problem. It coincidentally failed during the turbo install.
well isnt that what you want to run cooler when driving on city streets...
IMO i dont like dex coolant due to how it clogs and breaks Down gaskets...
i like to use prestone all makes ...
also you might want to use royal purple it will helps to protect and cool alot .
agree a CO2 system will give the induction a denser charge and more HP...
good luck.
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