turbo progress

[worknprog.99]

well today we bought a turbo, an intercooler a piping kit, a battery relocate kit and the flanges we will weld onto the custom exhaust manifold...

i will get pictures up whenever things start coming together here in about a week or two.....

anhy thoughts on fuel injecters?

[mfuller]

Depends on the size of your turbo and how much boost you are trying to run.
Richie supposedly had 42#ers with his 250whp setup (6psi on a Garrett T3 60-1 turbo; AR trim .63), and some others have made do with 28# injectors from a Trailblazer (again, about 250whp from 8psi on a Garrett T3/T04B V Trim .63 AR).

[mfuller]

Some inspirational pictures......

[kwhauck]

whose is that? nice looking manifold, better than the ususal birdshit welded logs you see......

[worknprog.99]

whose is that? nice looking manifold, better than the ususal birdshit welded logs you see......

i second that i wish i could find that manifold, it would look better than the custom pipes we are making now...

and as for the boost i will be running at around 8psi...
but with the boost controler i will be keeping it in between 6-8

are wastegates able to be adjusted to the desired psi within their range?

because mine is set at 8psi spring according to its specs

[Nate's Alero]

i second that i wish i could find that manifold, it would look better than the custom pipes we are making now...

and as for the boost i will be running at around 8psi...
but with the boost controler i will be keeping it in between 6-8

are wastegates able to be adjusted to the desired psi within their range?

because mine is set at 8psi spring according to its specs

you running this on a stock 3400?

[worknprog.99]

things will be upgraded durring the process why?

my buddy has one that he had turboed two years ago and to this day he is still running stock at 12 psi only difference is is his is a grand am.

[guiguilandry]

I got a set of injectors from my 3800 engine freshly cleaned before I removed them... if you're interested 100$ shipped to you...

[Nate's Alero]

things will be upgraded durring the process why?

my buddy has one that he had turboed two years ago and to this day he is still running stock at 12 psi only difference is is his is a grand am.

well, i know that the internals of a 3400 are forged, so i would not worry

[worknprog.99]

well, i know that the internals of a 3400 are forged, so i would not worry

what you mean not worry lol?
is your opinion that it wont work or you think it will ? ;)

[[ion] C2]

are wastegates able to be adjusted to the desired psi within their range?

because mine is set at 8psi spring according to its specs
yes, called boost controller... it limits the amount of boost the wastegate sees so it doesn't open until your desired boost level is set

and nate's talking about the engine handling the extra power. the 3400 has forged rods stock.

[worknprog.99]

C2;455943']yes, called boost controller... it limits the amount of boost the wastegate sees so it doesn't open until your desired boost level is set

and nate's talking about the engine handling the extra power. the 3400 has forged rods stock.

yeah the majority of people that i have talked to have said i will be ok with this setup the only ones that say otherwise dont see the point anyways lol.

and thats what i thought about the boost controler.

i will get pics of stuff when i get farther into the progress

[kwhauck]

well, i know that the internals of a 3400 are forged, so i would not worry

wrong.....


but yes, at 8psi, assuming you have a good tune, your motor will be fine....

[worknprog.99]

wrong.....


but yes, at 8psi, assuming you have a good tune, your motor will be fine....

thats what my friend and myself figure,,,,

you sure its not forged i had someone else say it is too

[[ion] C2]

Well what are you describing with "it's"? Every component in the engine? The connecting rods are forged. That's it.

[kwhauck]

usually the only worry at higher psi, is the pistons, rods are usually fine, and so it the crank, but if you want SBC rods will work if you narrow down the big ends, and the 3500 has a forged crank which can be used if you turn it down, or custom rods, and then you also will need the TCE external crank trigger.....even though i bent my last crank, i opted for the stock 3400 crank and SBC rods with custom forged pistons in my built motor....

[worknprog.99]

usually the only worry at higher psi, is the pistons, rods are usually fine, and so it the crank, but if you want SBC rods will work if you narrow down the big ends, and the 3500 has a forged crank which can be used if you turn it down, or custom rods, and then you also will need the TCE external crank trigger.....even though i bent my last crank, i opted for the stock 3400 crank and SBC rods with custom forged pistons in my built motor....

well the good thing here is that im not going that high on psi im starting at low;)

[Spilner521]

and as for the boost i will be running at around 8psi...
but with the boost controler i will be keeping it in between 6-8

are wastegates able to be adjusted to the desired psi within their range?

because mine is set at 8psi spring according to its specs
If your wastegate is set for 8psi, you cannot lower it below 8psi, you can only raise it. A boost controller can only raise the boost pressure from what the wastegate is set at. The only way to lower it is to get a different wastegate actuator (internal gate) or a different spring (external gate).

[worknprog.99]

If your wastegate is set for 8psi, you cannot lower it below 8psi, you can only raise it. A boost controller can only raise the boost pressure from what the wastegate is set at. The only way to lower it is to get a different wastegate actuator (internal gate) or a different spring (external gate).

i know. i was planning on getting a spring for 6 psi

[Spilner521]

OK then you can run 6psi minimum and raise it to whatever you want :thumb:

[worknprog.99]

so we go to relocate the battery to the trunk.....get it all done wire ran under the car and everything, for some reason we forgot to fasten it at the bottom where it came u to the positive terminal on the fuse box. so with the slack it fell down and scrapped the road exposing about two feet of wire (50$ ruined) and started hitting the frame and sparking... now its at my girlfriends house awaiting me to go back and lay in the road to fix it.

on a side note; my car runs hot would switching to regular coolent help this?

[Spilner521]

Regular coolant? What do you run now?

[worknprog.99]

dex cool. everyone at my work says they would NEVER keep dex cool in the car. and it probably is partly why my car heats up so fast and i should switch to the green stuff

[Gr1m]

you cant just switch from dexcool to regular coolant, i would wait til you rebuild your motor and actually tear into the gaskets and then while you have the engine apart flush your coolant and replace all of your gaskets at the same time while switching to new coolant.

[worknprog.99]

you cant just switch from dexcool to regular coolant, i would wait til you rebuild your motor and actually tear into the gaskets and then while you have the engine apart flush your coolant and replace all of your gaskets at the same time while switching to new coolant.

everyone told me that i could just get a full coolent flush and switch to the green

[cherrington17]

hes saying to wait till you have to flush for a different reason.... rather then simply to change coolant types....

[[ion] C2]

Those guys only hate dex cool because of GM's shitty V6 gaskets that have given Dex a bad name.

I love Dex-Cool. Been in the car since the beginning. No issues with overheating or high temps whatsoever. It's always in the region it should be.

[worknprog.99]

hmmmm. i wish i could say the same. they claim its why it gets so hot.

im going with an hks bov for the turbo anyone else have one?

[meadus101]

Buddy of mine has an Apex on his MR2. Works great.

[Nate's Alero]

where does the car run for heat? like on the gauge?

[worknprog.99]

where does the car run for heat? like on the gauge?

well i let the car idle it heats up real fast to about 3/4 hot the fans never kick on.(however they work with the air conditioner)... then as i drive it goes down a little but the car is almost constantly inbetween half and 3/4.... and after short drives the motor will be extremely hot just from an across town drive... i have had the coolent flushed about 6 months ago and since then had the LIMG replaced and the water pump. it was recently preasure tested and no leaks... maybe a clog? the coolent?
and why dont the fans come on auto matically? very frustrating lol

posibbly bad pcm? if so it will be changed when tuning time comes around either way.

[Nate's Alero]

well i let the car idle it heats up real fast to about 3/4 hot the fans never kick on.(however they work with the air conditioner)... then as i drive it goes down a little but the car is almost constantly inbetween half and 3/4.... and after short drives the motor will be extremely hot just from an across town drive... i have had the coolent flushed about 6 months ago and since then had the LIMG replaced and the water pump. it was recently preasure tested and no leaks... maybe a clog? the coolent?
and why dont the fans come on auto matically? very frustrating lol

posibbly bad pcm? if so it will be changed when tuning time comes around either way.

jeez, dying water pump?

[[ion] C2]

the fan on temp is 223 F

[Nate's Alero]

C2;456910']the fan on temp is 223 F

WHAT? HOLYSHIT!!! where on the gauge is that?

[[ion] C2]

We have 2.4L Twin Cams also. Who knows if your tune is set differently.

[worknprog.99]

jeez, dying water pump?

brand new water pump.... i have absolutely no idea why it does this. im beginning to wonder if the gauge just misreads. so the fans dont come on cause it never actually gets that hot. thats why i think maybe confused pcm. my gas gauge doesnt work either . it picks how much gas it wants to read lol

but yeah its getting frustrating especially since thats the only thing wrong with it at the moment and the turbo setup is on the way so i want it fixed!!!;)

[Caboose73]

buy a coolant temp gauge and see if your stock gauge doesn't work

[worknprog.99]

buy a coolant temp gauge and see if your stock gauge doesn't work

i think its going to come to that unfortunatly. how much would one cost?

[Caboose73]

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue-digital-water-temperature-gauge.aspx

I got mine for $50

[worknprog.99]

does the electronic sender go where the stock coolent sensor is?

[Caboose73]

no you can put it any were i just T off of the big coolant line

[worknprog.99]

gottcha.
if its not the gauge any ideas?

[Caboose73]

it might have to do with your fans not kicking on cause you said it cools down a little when driving it.Did you check your thermostat yet?

[worknprog.99]

it might have to do with your fans not kicking on cause you said it cools down a little when driving it.Did you check your thermostat yet?

it gets weirder now that you mention the therma. i replaced the thermastat last week and it drives a little hotter than it did before. and still idles hot and the fans dont turn on... but if you turn the car on and the ac is on the fans will keep it from going over half until i drive it... but after it heats up it wont cool off until you idle then for some reason it cools a little and so on....

[Caboose73]

hmm thats weird well after you get that gauge you will be able to tell if its just your gauge messing with you or if its a real problem. and if you get the gauge and it reads hot then the only other thing i can think of is you got a clog some were

[worknprog.99]

hmm thats weird well after you get that gauge you will be able to tell if its just your gauge messing with you or if its a real problem. and if you get the gauge and it reads hot then the only other thing i can think of is you got a clog some were

a clog is what i was thinking, i was going to flush and go to green anyways soon so mabye if a clog is the problem it will go away...

[Nate's Alero]

a clog is what i was thinking, i was going to flush and go to green anyways soon so mabye if a clog is the problem it will go away...

lolclog.....how many miles?

[worknprog.99]

lolclog.....how many miles?

73500

[Spilner521]

im going with an hks bov for the turbo anyone else have one?
Yep, that's what I have. One of the better valves since it's impossible for it to leak boost. I like how it sounds when it dumps full boost pressure (25psi), but if you don't like the whistle when it dumps at part throttle, you can always take out the fin.

[worknprog.99]

i have seen multiple fin inserts for the hks that sound cool... do you have any video clips of yours?? im going to get one here soon but im interested to hear one on another alero;)

[[ion] C2]

All of his video clips are HORRENDOUS quality, unfortunately. :( Can't hear anything good whatsoever.

[worknprog.99]

C2;457400']All of his video clips are HORRENDOUS quality, unfortunately. :( Can't hear anything good whatsoever.

i will youtube some then lol
i will make sure my videos are good quality ;)

[[ion] C2]

Same, the day my setup goes on (Friday hopefully) I'll be getting video after tuning.

[worknprog.99]

C2;457448']Same, the day my setup goes on (Friday hopefully) I'll be getting video after tuning.

i wish mine would get done fast like that lol.

[[ion] C2]

I just decided to turbo a week ago too. :lol:

[jrim]

C2;457450']I just decided to turbo a week ago too. :lol:

Who's doing your install?

[worknprog.99]

C2;457450']I just decided to turbo a week ago too. :lol:

its probably easier on a 4 cylinder though lol.

[[ion] C2]

Who's doing your install?
Uhm, me.

[jrim]

C2;457468']Uhm, me.

Oh, your post implied it was being done by someone else. Hopefully it will pull the times out of your car that it's capable of because I know you've spent a hell of a lot of money on it.

[[ion] C2]

Friday's the day I have tentatively scheduled with Speed Industry to let me use their tools/lift and they'll be fabricating the downpipe.

[xXManwhoreXx]

get the mms downpipe, its a 2.5, and just extend it since the turbo will be in back of the engine just have a little extention welded in

[worknprog.99]

get the mms downpipe, its a 2.5, and just extend it since the turbo will be in back of the engine just have a little extention welded in

the turbo will be sitting where the battery used to be.... im awaiting two flanges and my welder friend to be ready lol

[guiguilandry]

Here they are.... Hope it's all good for you...

[worknprog.99]

sending you another pm....

[BlackJack]

ok, I know this is probably a dumb question, but have you changed the sending unit for your coolant temp?

Also, if you go aftermarket temp guage, don't replace the stock one with the aftermarket sender. The computer needs input on your temp (via the stock sender) to calculate advanced modifiers on many things, to name a few: Fueling, transmission shift points/pressure, fan on/off times, etc.

Welcome to the land of the boosted, and good luck.

Also, I will confirm that the stock internals are not forged. The pistons and crank are both cast, and the rods are merely shot-peened, and even the cam is cast core. However, I've run as much as 18psi intermittently on completely stock internals, and finally blew a piston due to fuel starvation in an altitude change.

If you want forged, like the others said, go 3500 crank (~2,500 new, and will require retooling for crank position sensor), SBC 5.700" small journal forged rods (side clearanced) ~$300-400 w/2 extras, and a custom set of forged pistons (~$600-800 per set).

Sky's the limit (or your wallet, which ever empties first).

[worknprog.99]

ok, I know this is probably a dumb question, but have you changed the sending unit for your coolant temp?

Also, if you go aftermarket temp guage, don't replace the stock one with the aftermarket sender. The computer needs input on your temp (via the stock sender) to calculate advanced modifiers on many things, to name a few: Fueling, transmission shift points/pressure, fan on/off times, etc.

Welcome to the land of the boosted, and good luck.

Also, I will confirm that the stock internals are not forged. The pistons and crank are both cast, and the rods are merely shot-peened, and even the cam is cast core. However, I've run as much as 18psi intermittently on completely stock internals, and finally blew a piston due to fuel starvation in an altitude change.

If you want forged, like the others said, go 3500 crank (~2,500 new, and will require retooling for crank position sensor), SBC 5.700" small journal forged rods (side clearanced) ~$300-400 w/2 extras, and a custom set of forged pistons (~$600-800 per set).

Sky's the limit (or your wallet, which ever empties first).

well i never checked that (head smack) but its at the shop now getting the coolent flushed and they would check why they dont work, i know the guy there, so hopefull i dont have to mess with that part anymore....

i dont plan on rebuilding the internals at the moment, seeing as im running low psi to start i should be ok, however come this weekend when we start to install things it will be very tempting to keeo buying things and putting them in.... this project should be done middle of may and waiting for tuning. reason it will take so long is i work alot and have college so limited time:cool:

[kwhauck]

well i never checked that (head smack) but its at the shop now getting the coolent flushed and they would check why they dont work, i know the guy there, so hopefull i dont have to mess with that part anymore....

i dont plan on rebuilding the internals at the moment, seeing as im running low psi to start i should be ok, however come this weekend when we start to install things it will be very tempting to keeo buying things and putting them in.... this project should be done middle of may and waiting for tuning. reason it will take so long is i work alot and have college so limited time:cool:

i have a forged 3500 crank, i will sell you for $350 shipped......rollover car 4500miles on the motor when rolled.....

[worknprog.99]

i have a forged 3500 crank, i will sell you for $350 shipped......rollover car 4500miles on the motor when rolled.....

i may look into that in a few weeks;)
unless you sell it before then

[kwhauck]

i've had it for 6 months......

[BlackJack]

i've had it for 6 months......

PM sent

[Spilner521]

i have seen multiple fin inserts for the hks that sound cool... do you have any video clips of yours?? im going to get one here soon but im interested to hear one on another alero;)
The HKS isn't on the Alero :thumb: I'll see if I can get a video.

I had a couple short video clips of the Alero years ago, but Ion's right, they were pretty terrible quality, taken with a point and shoot digital camera on video mode.

[worknprog.99]

pic of the cooler and the turbocharger;)

[[ion] C2]

Why did you get such a tiny odd shaped intercooler?

And what brand turbocharger is that?

[worknprog.99]

C2;457912']Why did you get such a tiny odd shaped intercooler?

And what brand turbocharger is that?

the cooler looks strange in the pic it is 18in long it actually has n=more surface area than the 22 in i was going to get and the turbo is a t3 .63 trim 8 psi wastegate

[[ion] C2]

Ya, what brand turbochager?

[worknprog.99]

nothin special just something to get me going ibought it off a buddy i would have to go look. he lives near columbus ohio and gets alot of stuff new and used this is new. i think they sell it on ebay from cxracing or something like that... hopefully if all works out i can get the garret,

reason i didnt get it first was because i got this one at avery good price and didnt wanna spend 1400 and have it not work lol

[[ion] C2]

Ummmm.... eBay turbos tend to be unreliable. Meaning when that compressor wheels self destructs, all of those metal pieces get to go in your engine.

I picked up my Garrett freshly rebuilt and ported for $180.

[worknprog.99]

C2;457924']Ummmm.... eBay turbos tend to be unreliable. Meaning when that compressor wheels self destructs, all of those metal pieces get to go in your engine.

I picked up my Garrett freshly rebuilt and ported for $180.

where the hell did you find that?:ninja:

[[ion] C2]

You can find them all over for that price. It's a .48/.42 T3. It can only support around 300whp. But hell I know someone selling a GT3076R for $650.

NEVER use an eBay turbo unless it's on an engine you don't mind rebuilding when that turbo blows.

[Caboose73]

Or you can get a turbo from Hahn over at j-body

[worknprog.99]

i guess it all depends on the one you get cause he has been running the same one as this at 19 psi for two years no problem... but i hear what your saying

[[ion] C2]

Yep it's a gamble, some explode and destroy the engine the day it's run, some last for a couple years.

[worknprog.99]

C2;457930']Yep it's a gamble, some explode and destroy the engine the day it's run, some last for a couple years.

whats the main difference because i compared it side by side to a garret today(buddy has one on a mazda) and they look identicle

[[ion] C2]

Materials quality... build quality... It's not like you're going to notice a massive problem just by looking at it... :huh:

[worknprog.99]

C2;457934']Materials quality... build quality... It's not like you're going to notice a massive problem just by looking at it...

true....

[worknprog.99]

not to defend them 100 percent but they have good reviews and decent videos of there turbos

[jrim]

not to defend them 100 percent but they have good reviews and decent videos of there turbos

KKK has a fan club too. My point is that you will find good reviews and cool videos about a lot of things that are less than stellar.. for example, that 'hurricane' turbo intake or whatever it was.. you know, the thing with the fan on the end.

[worknprog.99]

KKK has a fan club too. My point is that you will find good reviews and cool videos about a lot of things that are less than stellar.. for example, that 'hurricane' turbo intake or whatever it was.. you know, the thing with the fan on the end.

yeah thats true..... my friends is doing good tho,.. i would think even if the internal propeller fins blew out they would get blown through the exhaust not the engine?

if i could get my hands on a garret that cheap like ion i would buy it in a heartbeat

[[ion] C2]

http://www.scmturbo.com/images/turbo-parts.gif

There's 2 impellers in a turbocharger..

[BlackJack]

C2;458007']

There's 2 impellers in a turbocharger..

And note that one side feeds INTO the engine. Thanks for pointing that out C2.

All it takes is 2nd rate workmanship, bad bearings, or oil coking or starvation, and the resulting bearing wear will create enough shaft play that the turbine and compressor wheel can (and probably will) both hit the insides of the housings. Bad ju-ju.

Wait, what am I talking about.....I have an ebay turbo....LOL.

It's been replaced once, for that very reason. So don't chance it, do it right.

[kwhauck]

you want a garret turbo, there are two here locally........i would be willing to get them and ship to you if you are interested....

Garret T3/T04E 50 trim with .50 AR and .68 exhaust, this thing is pretty much brand spanking new! It has just seen idles, no driving. I'm looking for $350

Then a no-name turbo that has been rebuilt by Blaast Performance with garret internals, it's a T3/T04E .57 trim with .50AR and .63 exhaust
looking for $150

[worknprog.99]

you want a garret turbo, there are two here locally........i would be willing to get them and ship to you if you are interested....

Garret T3/T04E 50 trim with .50 AR and .68 exhaust, this thing is pretty much brand spanking new! It has just seen idles, no driving. I'm looking for $350

Then a no-name turbo that has been rebuilt by Blaast Performance with garret internals, it's a T3/T04E .57 trim with .50AR and .63 exhaust
looking for $150

i wouldnt mind the 150 one if you can get it....i need 2.5 in inner cooler outlet though is that what it has? cause my piping is 2.5in. and also is the wastegat already on ? because i dont know how to hook one on if it doesnt..

[worknprog.99]

i completely understand all of what you guys are saying and yes i want to do it right the first time.. but i got to thinkin even if it did have the impellars go bad and blow to peices wouldnt they either go out the exhaust and the other wouldnt make it into the motor because there is a screen on the intake before the throttle body on the stretch with the MAFS....so i dont see it getting into the engine itself ...please correct me if im wrong tho guys im here to learn so i can do this project right lol

[[ion] C2]

Dude.... research.

It doesn't matter what the outlet size on the compressor is. You use silicone adapters. You're custom making the manifold, why can't you simply use an external wastegate? If it doesn't have an internal "already on" just go external, it's much better...

Sure there's a screen but you'll get bits making it through.

[worknprog.99]

C2;458057']Dude.... research.

It doesn't matter what the outlet size on the compressor is. You use silicone adapters. You're custom making the manifold, why can't you simply use an external wastegate? If it doesn't have an internal "already on" just go external, it's much better...

Sure there's a screen but you'll get bits making it through.

thats what i mean is the external wastegate.. how does one get attached? i suppose i could go home and look at the one on this turbo tho to find out....

so you would go with the 150 dollar rebuilt with garret internals?
and how hard would putting on waste gate be if it doesnt already have one?

[worknprog.99]

http://www.cxracing.com/

here is the website my buddy gets his stuff from. he assures me it will be ok especially at 8 psi... anyone ever heard of them? they seem to sell alot of stuff

[[ion] C2]

That's the company that makes the intercooler I bought.

Turbos, I wouldn't trust them too much. Any < $200 new turbo is risky. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the setup...

You need to quit having people buy things for you or having "your buddy" do everything for you. Research for yourself and figure out what's best.

[worknprog.99]

C2;458100']That's the company that makes the intercooler I bought.

Turbos, I wouldn't trust them too much. Any < $200 new turbo is risky. Don't cheap out on the most important part of the setup...

You need to quit having people buy things for you or having "your buddy" do everything for you. Research for yourself and figure out what's best.

he got the turbo for 265 i got it less. because he buys in bulk....

upon doing research just now no reported problems have been reported with this turbo well taken car of and low psi.... engine ruining would be hard from the impellers going out according to our mechanics at my work... some online rports of blowing impellers apart only a small handfull harmed the car, this brand specifically was rated very high for off brand turbos, i mean its no garret or something like that but its also not some plastic "turbo any car " deal either lol..

i brought it to them to look at and evreything, and he said if an impeller blew you would notice and just stop the car but as far as anything sizeable enough to get into the motor would be very unlikely, our master technician had an off brand twin turbo setup blew one to peices running 22psi and his motor was unharmed.... not trying to be an aragant dick or anything im just showing my research findings.;)

[BlackJack]

If I were doing this all over again, I'd by kwhauk's garrett he listed up there for $350. Without a doubt.

[worknprog.99]

If I were doing this all over again, I'd by kwhauk's garrett he listed up there for $350. Without a doubt.

if i had 350 i would.... i can always upgrade later

[[ion] C2]

If I had $650 I'd get spyhunter's GT3076R.

[worknprog.99]

not to be arragant but i think comparing this turbo to say a garret is no different than say a honda to a chevy.... mixed opinions, one may be beter than the other in some cases others not,. all in how you treat it. since ion told me to do some research i spent time looking at the two online and varies other names and escept for minor things the main difference is origin of make and brand name... so like anything else moreless its popularity and manufacture name.... and how you treat it....

(not being a smat ass by researching it ion i just got curious about the differences of the two) lol

[Spilner521]

I'm not so thrilled with the turbo, but it's not my car, so good luck with it. Why did you get such a small intercooler? It's too tall. There's only going to be air flowing over the bottom 6" of the core. You should've got something shorter and wider.

Garret T3/T04E 50 trim with .50 AR and .68 exhaust, this thing is pretty much brand spanking new! It has just seen idles, no driving. I'm looking for $350

Then a no-name turbo that has been rebuilt by Blaast Performance with garret internals, it's a T3/T04E .57 trim with .50AR and .63 exhaust
looking for $150
Ion, sell yours get one of these! Good prices for good turbos :thumb:

[Nate's Alero]

I'm not so thrilled with the turbo, but it's not my car, so good luck with it. Why did you get such a small intercooler? It's too tall. There's only going to be air flowing over the bottom 6" of the core. You should've got something shorter and wider.

Ion, sell yours get one of these! Good prices for good turbos :thumb:

are you turbo'ing a 2.4 or a 3400?

[Spilner521]

are you turbo'ing a 2.4 or a 3400?
Um, I'm not...

My Alero has the 2.4 and it's been turbo'd for almost 4 years.

[worknprog.99]

I'm not so thrilled with the turbo, but it's not my car, so good luck with it. Why did you get such a small intercooler? It's too tall. There's only going to be air flowing over the bottom 6" of the core. You should've got something shorter and wider.

Ion, sell yours get one of these! Good prices for good turbos :thumb:

i was given the inter cooler lol im going to try and make it work ...

and nate's alero im turboing the 3400

[Spilner521]

i was given the inter cooler lol im going to try and make it work ...
While it's always cool to get free parts, you're better off selling that intercooler and getting one that will be more effective.

[worknprog.99]

While it's always cool to get free parts, you're better off selling that intercooler and getting one that will be more effective.

i dont think it will fit anywhere anyways lol.... however surface area to air is not as a big of deal as it may seem... now if none of the surface is showing thats not good, but if you have half or more hitting moving air the difference between a fully exposed cooler surface and partially exposed is not that noticabley different unless your trying to get the maximum everything and run strictly as a performer stand point...;)

but yeah i dont think its gunna even fit so using it to sell for another was already posibly in the plan lol

[Spilner521]

The surface area exposed to oncoming air is more of a big deal than you think. The part that isn't exposed isn't cooling the charge. If you have half the face showing on an already small intercooler, you effectively cut that intercooler in half, which makes it tiny. You'll want something that fills the bumper and exposes the whole core to oncoming air.

I don't know who you've been talking to...

[worknprog.99]

The surface area exposed to oncoming air is more of a big deal than you think. The part that isn't exposed isn't cooling the charge. If you have half the face showing on an already small intercooler, you effectively cut that intercooler in half, which makes it tiny. You'll want something that fills the bumper and exposes the whole core to oncoming air.

I don't know who you've been talking to...

....like i said it probably wont fit anyways/.

[xXManwhoreXx]

i was given the inter cooler lol im going to try and make it work ...

and nate's alero im turboing the 3400

get an intercooler from a MK3 Supra, they are proven to be some of the best OEM intercoolers ever made.

[Bad99Olds]

or just buy one that fits. whatever floats your boat.

[xXManwhoreXx]

and as he said above you can compare chevy to honda, my CRX Si would toast the majority of the stock v8's

[worknprog.99]

or just buy one that fits. whatever floats your boat.

thats the plan. lol. this one will work i just went out and place fitted it and the amount of cubic inches exposed is barely less than the 22x5.5x2.5 one...due to amount that actually is exposed due to its thickness and width....however the longer one would look better probably but this one if i decide to use it the effectiveness will be darn close... this is backed up by measurements and math lol:p

[worknprog.99]

and as he said above you can compare chevy to honda, my CRX Si would toast the majority of the stock v8's

lo:haha:

[kwhauck]

stats and timeslips of crx si, or :bs:

[worknprog.99]

stats and timeslips of crx si, or :bs:

lol ..... there is a guy on my street that always races up and down the road in a crx and it sounds like he cut off the muffler and attached a folgers can to it lol

[Spilner521]

stats and timeslips of crx si, or :bs:
Yeah seriously....

[[ion] C2]

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs037.snc1/3301_186215505081_501660081_6619513_3954685_n.jpg

[kwhauck]

ummmm.......

[worknprog.99]

C2;458445']http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs037.snc1/3301_186215505081_501660081_6619513_3954685_n.jpg

whos is that? yours?

[[ion] C2]

Uh no, xXMahanXcorEXx's, the CRX everyone's been posting about. :lol:

[kwhauck]

that pic does absolutely no good, a side shot, yeah that shows how badass of a car it is....

[[ion] C2]

K, here's his engine bay:

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs037.snc1/3301_186215475081_501660081_6619507_1587910_n.jpg

Exhaust:
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs037.snc1/3301_186215490081_501660081_6619510_5069642_n.jpg

[Gr1m]

that car looks so badass its a FWD car but can get the front wheels off the ground

[xXManwhoreXx]

Wow way to get the pics of the car when I bought it like 3 months ago haha it looks nothing liek that now when I get my cam back from my friend next week ill take new pics, the car weighs like 1800 lbs and has a vtec head swap with a cower cam ecu and intake and exhaust, it stick has 135 hp on the stock engine without cam intake exhaust or chip.

[worknprog.99]

i have heard that the crx can be fixed up to be one of the faster cars of its kind out there...

[kwhauck]

still see nothing special that can beat most v8s, 13 second timeslip or bullshit......

[xXManwhoreXx]

i have heard that the crx can be fixed up to be one of the faster cars of its kind out there...

I have seen a CRX smoke a Corvette z06 in person so yea.

[xXManwhoreXx]

still see nothing special that can beat most v8s, 13 second timeslip or bullshit......

I need to get tuned and my timing fixed cause of the head swap. but I just got the car like 2 months ago, I've bearly been able to drive it. but this summer I'll get to the track.

[BlackJack]

ok, we all know a majority of Aleromod doesn't like Honda's. However, when I was in High School (yes, that was a long time ago) a kid had a new stock '85 honda CRX and used to smoke the living crap out of stock V8's ALL DAY LONG.

It's a simple matter of HP/Weight ratio and good engineering from torque band to gearing.

I dont like em at all, but the freaking little things are admittedly fast as hell with little work done to em.

I raced one not too long ago, probably about stage2 N/A I believe if I had to put a label on his mods, and he was pretty quick. We finally got a crow-bar to get his car pried out of my intake and I talked to the guy about it, and he told me about what little he'd done to it to get it to that point. Wasn't too bad if I had to throw together something cheap and quick.

[AleroB888]

It's a simple matter of HP/Weight ratio and good engineering from torque band to gearing..


Motorcycles are fast, too. :)

[Spilner521]

I have seen a CRX smoke a Corvette z06 in person so yea.
Yeah a CRX, not your CRX.

What do you consider "the majority of the stock v8's" that you would toast?
stage2 N/A
I don't know what that means...

[Nate's Alero]

fail, braggin about a honda on an american forum......

i want pics, naow

[xXManwhoreXx]

I got my ho too!

[JLw7123]

Depends on the size of your turbo and how much boost you are trying to run.
Richie supposedly had 42#ers with his 250whp setup (6psi on a Garrett T3 60-1 turbo; AR trim .63), and some others have made do with 28# injectors from a Trailblazer (again, about 250whp from 8psi on a Garrett T3/T04B V Trim .63 AR).

is the car a v6

[worknprog.99]

is the car a v6

yes where have you been ?? this is even posted in the 3400 catagory

[worknprog.99]

for those who have mounted an intercooler im getting rid of the free one i was given and buying one with the demensions of like 22x5.5x3 .. my question is how did you mount it? did you have to cut alot of the plastic off behind the bumper? because i had the bumper off today and that is the only way i see to do it.... any insight?

[jrim]

for those who have mounted an intercooler im getting rid of the free one i was given and buying one with the demensions of like 22x5.5x3 .. my question is how did you mount it? did you have to cut alot of the plastic off behind the bumper? because i had the bumper off today and that is the only way i see to do it.... any insight?

I saw a full turbo install with pics on another forum and he/she had to cut it to make the intercooler fit.

[worknprog.99]

I saw a full turbo install with pics on another forum and he/she had to cut it to make the intercooler fit.

do you have the link to it ?? it would be very helpful.... when i had the bumper off today i figured that some fab cutting would be needed....

[[ion] C2]

I'ma make a how to soon as my shit's done.

[worknprog.99]

C2;459617']I'ma make a how to soon as my shit's done.

that would be amazing... what does you cooler look like? i was thinkin about getting one with the inlet and outlets on the same side

[Spilner521]

for those who have mounted an intercooler im getting rid of the free one i was given and buying one with the demensions of like 22x5.5x3 .. my question is how did you mount it? did you have to cut alot of the plastic off behind the bumper? because i had the bumper off today and that is the only way i see to do it.... any insight?
On my car, I mounted the intercooler to the metal crash beam behind the plastic bumper support. My intercooler is 31" wide and I had to trim the plastic bumper support a little just around the corners of the intercooler to fit it. With an intercooler that's 22" wide, you may not have to do any trimming at all.

I don't think I have a picture with the support installed, but here's the intercooler mounted to the crash beam.
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3606/intercoolerframe2.jpg

[worknprog.99]

thanks that helped alot....
;)

[worknprog.99]

as we all know gm is fucked and on monday they will be releasing the list of dealerships in ohio to close over 4200 nation wide.... we are a very likey candidate since there are two other gm dealers around us .... so should i keep going on the turbo setup or hold off and ride this through??

[Bad99Olds]

as we all know gm is effed and on monday they will be releasing the list of dealerships in ohio to close over 4200 nation wide.... we are a very likey candidate since there are two other gm dealers around us .... so should i keep going on the turbo setup or hold off and ride this through??

Keep going.

[worknprog.99]

Keep going.

thats the plan
lol:cool:

[[ion] C2]

that would be amazing... what does you cooler look like? i was thinkin about getting one with the inlet and outlets on the same side

Ew, same side I/O.

http://www.ion-productions.com/intercooler.jpg

[worknprog.99]

C2;459991']Ew, same side I/O.

http://www.ion-productions.com/intercooler.jpg

why you say ew?? thats not a same side intercooler in that pic

[[ion] C2]

I commented on both of your points in the quote. Did you not see that? You wanted to see what my intercooler looked like. Then you mentioned you wanted a same side intercooler.

I answered both.

[worknprog.99]

oh lol.... why are you against the inter coolers with the inlet and outlets on the same side?? i would think it will make piping very much easier

[[ion] C2]

Well on your setup it would make things easier. I just don't like how they look.

[worknprog.99]

yeah i like the other kind better but for time manegement i may get one .. however there is a guy locally that will sell me one that looks identicle to your for 40 so i probably will go for that one even though it will be harder...

how would i run the piping back up through the hole to the intake?

[worknprog.99]

...also im looking at oil return lines any recomendations for that?

[Bad99Olds]

oh lol.... why are you against the inter coolers with the inlet and outlets on the same side?? i would think it will make piping very much easier

Really?

As for oil return lines, im not sure. I know Richie (AftermathAlero) has a lot of parts, but im sure someone will give you a decent answer soon enough.

[[ion] C2]

...also im looking at oil return lines any recomendations for that?
Yeah... you get some -10AN braided stainless steel hose, fittings to fit on the turbo's outlet, and either a bung or a fitting to weld into the oil pan and screw on your hose with its fitting.

[worknprog.99]

just picked up this intercooler from a guy on craigslist for 40 bucks
its a jdm

[worknprog.99]

ok so for those that have done this or those that have no how... i was just out looking at the manifold to see how i was going to run the new turbo manifolds... now i have two designs, 1 i dont think will work because of clearence issues around the corner of the motor.... so idea two looks like what aftermath did. now my question is to combine the front and back manifold parts together and go into the turbo wont be to hard, the problem i see is when you disconect the downpipe from the back log and run a pipe from the outlet of the turbo to the downpipe that would leave the old hole where it was bolted to the back log,, so would you just bolt on a closed flange to "plug" up the hole??
'sorry for the long post

[[ion] C2]

Ya. _

[worknprog.99]

C2;460310']Ya. _

so that is correct you just bolt on a closed flange as a "plug" ?

my other idea was cut back the downpipe (have to anyways) and put a 90 degree elbo from the stock DP hole and run that to the inlet and then run the downpipe from the turbo to the exhaust to the back,..... only problem with this idea is pipe clearance on the side... here is a rough diagram of tha idea.. although the "plug" the hole idea is probably how i will go.

bad very rough thought of possible manifold mod. probably not enough room for piping with this way but just a thought.

[Spilner521]

What you have in your diagram is not a great idea.

Yes it would work, but it places the turbo farther from the exhaust manifolds, and it won't spool as quick. You're better off getting rid of the crossover pipe connecting the two manifolds and having a pipe from each manifold meet at the turbo. Then, as you said, just plug the hole where the stock downpipe was.

What does the back manifold look like on a 3400? The exhaust would essentially have to flow backwards to where the crossover pipe was, and if the manifold is shaped more like a header instead of a log, it won't flow very well.

[worknprog.99]

What you have in your diagram is not a great idea.

Yes it would work, but it places the turbo farther from the exhaust manifolds, and it won't spool as quick. You're better off getting rid of the crossover pipe connecting the two manifolds and having a pipe from each manifold meet at the turbo. Then, as you said, just plug the hole where the stock downpipe was.

What does the back manifold look like on a 3400? The exhaust would essentially have to flow backwards to where the crossover pipe was, and if the manifold is shaped more like a header instead of a log, it won't flow very well.

yes i also thought of the spooling aspect since its longer distance.... im going with the other way i mentioned...

and the back looks like the front exept there is an outlet hole that the downpipe is attached to. and the two are conected to the crossover pipe.... it would be more convenient if the downpipe camoe off the crossover but it doesnt lol

also some info on running the vacuum lines and boost controler will be greatly appreciated.

[worknprog.99]

i talked to a master tech today that owns a shop.. he used to do custom car setups specializing in exhaust and transmissions and other stuff.... on friday he will be making my manifolds and downpipe after hours at his shop... im pretty excied i will be ready to take it to milzy by no later than a week or two. he is doing it very very cheap because i refered him to my boss to send cars to from the dealership.....

oh and also this came in the mail today....;)

[AftermathAlero]

This is how mine is mounted

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03447.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03445.jpg
Old pic w/ turbo XS RFL BOV ^^^^^^^^^^^^^6


New pic w/ HKS SSQV BOV
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/ifohouston092.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03906.jpg
Here is my downpipe pic.. i will say you will have to move the coolant lines to the heater core out of the way by cutting them and extending them longer out the way for the downpipe. My 2.5" piping barely fitted. The downpipe is in 3 sections connected by V-band flanges/clamps. It is really tight to snake back there for clearance.

My oil return line was custom made stainless hose at my local hose/fitting store. Its -10AN size. I would remove your oil pan and weld in a 1/2" NPT bung to the oil pan rather than your idea of drilling a hole and tapping the pan.

[leoalero]

This is how mine is mounted

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03447.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03445.jpg
Old pic w/ turbo XS RFL BOV ^^^^^^^^^^^^^6


New pic w/ HKS SSQV BOV
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/ifohouston092.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/TURBO/DSC03906.jpg
Here is my downpipe pic.. i will say you will have to move the coolant lines to the heater core out of the way by cutting them and extending them longer out the way for the downpipe. My 2.5" piping barely fitted. The downpipe is in 3 sections connected by V-band flanges/clamps. It is really tight to snake back there for clearance.

My oil return line was custom made stainless hose at my local hose/fitting store. Its -10AN size. I would remove your oil pan and weld in a 1/2" NPT bung to the oil pan rather than your idea of drilling a hole and tapping the pan.

Just a question like that,dont we need pressure in the oil to cool the turbo??I mean,is there pressure in the oil pan during engine run?!?

[BlackJack]

Just a question like that,dont we need pressure in the oil to cool the turbo??I mean,is there pressure in the oil pan during engine run?!?

The answer is yes, we need some oil pressure in the feed line, not so much to cool the turbo (which it will do some) but more so to keep the bearings and friction surfaces lubricated, which comes from a T-fitting off your oil pressure sensor for a feed line. Where they're talking about tapping the oil pan is for the return line from the turbo, so that the oil goes back into circulation.

Either way, don't tap/thread the oil pan itself. Get the proper bung, weld that in, then thread the fitting in, that way it is done correctly.

[BlackJack]

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Aftermathalero/ifohouston092.jpg


I gotta say, I can't make out much of the intricate detail work with this small of a pic, but from here, it looks beautiful man. I know it's not going to be a track runner, which is why the turbine housing is nearly up against the upper charge pipe (even with blanket). But as a trailer queen, it will work great. Nice job, looks great man.

[worknprog.99]

i am having my downpipes and manifold pipes made tomorrow (steal of a deal btw). i will probably have pics of the turbo in the car with the inter cooler mounted on sunday...

the only things i am unsure about doing is; vacuum lines, oil lines , and the gauges(air to fuel, and boost)...as i have never done any of that before....

and aftermath it looks like you cut out a chunk of the metal bumper? what did you cut it with?

[worknprog.99]

The answer is yes, we need some oil pressure in the feed line, not so much to cool the turbo (which it will do some) but more so to keep the bearings and friction surfaces lubricated, which comes from a T-fitting off your oil pressure sensor for a feed line. Where they're talking about tapping the oil pan is for the return line from the turbo, so that the oil goes back into circulation.

Either way, don't tap/thread the oil pan itself. Get the proper bung, weld that in, then thread the fitting in, that way it is done correctly.

where do i purchace the neccessary stuff to do the oil return line?

[AftermathAlero]

i am having my downpipes and manifold pipes made tomorrow (steal of a deal btw). i will probably have pics of the turbo in the car with the inter cooler mounted on sunday...

the only things i am unsure about doing is; vacuum lines, oil lines , and the gauges(air to fuel, and boost)...as i have never done any of that before....

and aftermath it looks like you cut out a chunk of the metal bumper? what did you cut it with?

i didn't cut anything metal in the bumper.. just the plastic impact beam.

[AftermathAlero]

I gotta say, I can't make out much of the intricate detail work with this small of a pic, but from here, it looks beautiful man. I know it's not going to be a track runner, which is why the turbine housing is nearly up against the upper charge pipe (even with blanket). But as a trailer queen, it will work great. Nice job, looks great man.

thanks. Yea it wasn't a track runner, but I did run it on the track to see the times it did. I did pretty good at 13.9 in the 1/4 w/ all my stereo, 20" chrome heavy ass wheels.etc. Dyno'd at 250whp and 305 ft lbs on 6 psi. I would say those are pretty good numbers for an alero. Most people are amazed that its an alero to begin with.

[worknprog.99]

i didn't cut anything metal in the bumper.. just the plastic impact beam.

hmmm that is plastic isnt it lol..

in my picture i posted of the bov is there a vac line that runs to it? or something
as stated before i have no previous experience with bov's or gauges

[[ion] C2]

The blow off valve vacuum line simply runs to the throttle body or manifold (post throttle plate) so that it sees boost or vacuum just as the manifold does. So when you let off the throttle, there is a large amount of vacuum pulling through the vacuum hose and there is a large amount of boost pushing on the other side of the valve, making it open.

[worknprog.99]

C2;462673']The blow off valve vacuum line simply runs to the throttle body or manifold (post throttle plate) so that it sees boost or vacuum just as the manifold does. So when you let off the throttle, there is a large amount of vacuum pulling through the vacuum hose and there is a large amount of boost pushing on the other side of the valve, making it open.

ok... will i have to install something to run it to from the bov? i see the bov has a nipple so im assuming i have to create one to go to?

[[ion] C2]

Or just "tee" off an existing one. You'll have a ton to choose from. Mine goes right to one of the throttle body ones.

[worknprog.99]

yes i noticed there are like three in that same location....
just to make sure im correct i T off one to go into the wastegate, and from the other part of the wastegate to the turbo end nipple... then one from the bov to the T on another vacuum line?

sound about right for vacuum lines? also can those T's be bought at a local store?

thanks for the help btw as im at the final stages it is much appreciated

[worknprog.99]

ok so i know how to do the boost gauge, but which vacuum line would be best to T from? im using an internal v band wastegate... or which line would you guys recomend?

bu air to fuel im not sure about....

[Spilner521]

C2;462673'] So when you let off the throttle, there is a large amount of vacuum pulling through the vacuum hose and there is a large amount of boost pushing on the other side of the valve, making it open.
Only the manifold vacuum opens the BOV. The HKS SSQV is a pull type BOV. Boost pressure pushes on the back of the valve, holding it closed. It's one of the better BOVs you can get because it's impossible for it to leak.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5663/hksssqvdiagram.gif

[worknprog.99]

so which line would you use?

[Spilner521]

so which line would you use?
Run a T off the line from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

[worknprog.99]

Run a T off the line from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

talking about the bov line to that one correct?

[Spilner521]

Yep. Run a line from the maniold into one side of the T, to the FPR from the other side of the T, and to the BOV from the bottom of the T.

[worknprog.99]

ok so when i relocated the battery to the truck i had it grounded to the truck and im thinking since there was water around the ground wire from a leak it caused this... ever since i relocated it it occasionally takes longer to turn over and fire up.. today it just was a really low crank crank crank and then no sound or noise at all... thought battery died.. no! smoke coming from the trunk, pop trunk smoke fills the air smelll of rubber is horrible... the entire ground wire was fried and melted rubber stuck to the trunk.... would that be due to it getting wet and shorting??

also does the battery relocate cause stress to the battery and make it have to try harder to turn over? cause sometimes it fired right up others i didnt ... then today poof.. dissintigrated ground wire....

i put it back up front to drive home....
here is new wiring idea.... power wire stays the same then have the amp pos. into the bat. like before... then ground the bat and amp to the same place on metal trunk top instead of bottom... or amp ground to bat neg and then bat ground to the trunk top...

sorry for the long post had to rant a lil :)

has to be on trunk top metal since the bottom gets wet.. the carpet is wet from all the rain we have had and i have a leak...which probably caused this

[Gr1m]

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm how big are the lines your running for the battery? you should be grounding with large wire(s), i hope your not using anything around 10g or higher.

[worknprog.99]

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm how big are the lines your running for the battery? you should be grounding with large wire(s), i hope your not using anything around 10g or higher.

the amp wires are a 6 gauge kit,
the battery wires are monster cable battery relocate lines at 4 gauge....

i think its cause they got wet...
and as far as the slow start sometimes is that due to farther for the current to go?

[Gr1m]

well the ground lines should be short as possible but other then that your okay, sounds like you have a decent sized wire and most likely caused from a wet connection, although i dont see how it would melt a 4g wire without it sitting in a large puddle of water while you start the car

[worknprog.99]

well the ground lines should be short as possible but other then that your okay, sounds like you have a decent sized wire and most likely caused from a wet connection, although i dont see how it would melt a 4g wire without it sitting in a large puddle of water while you start the car

i dont know it leaks bad when it poors... the carpet was wet and it was under the carpet bolted to the metal... but there was NOTHING left of the wire except very very crisp rubber.....it was only 1.5 feet long maybe two...

and as for the amp wire grounded in the same spot that is ok?
and do you know if the slow turning over sometimes is due to how far away it is now? cause its up front now and fires right up..

[Gr1m]

i would say the weather striping on the trunk is bad if its leaking into the trunk lol, but for your starting problems it could have to do with corroded lines on your starter, mine are in bad shape i was thinking about replacing them because that should help out a lot

[worknprog.99]

i would say the weather striping on the trunk is bad if its leaking into the trunk lol, but for your starting problems it could have to do with corroded lines on your starter, mine are in bad shape i was thinking about replacing them because that should help out a lot

hmmm. it doesnt do it with the bat up front where it is now until tomorrow when i fix it....

but the grounds going to the same spot is ok?

[AftermathAlero]

Did you ground the engine to the chassis in the front? If not.. then the engine is drawing powering from backfeeding in grounds in the electrical system. Add some grounds btw the engine block to the chassis. It will solve your problem.

Your ground in the trunk is fine.. the one from battery negative to the trunk. (make sure your surface is clean. i.e. grind or sand the paint off in that spot where the ground is going to be on.

[worknprog.99]

Did you ground the engine to the chassis in the front? If not.. then the engine is drawing powering from backfeeding in grounds in the electrical system. Add some grounds btw the engine block to the chassis. It will solve your problem.

Your ground in the trunk is fine.. the one from battery negative to the trunk. (make sure your surface is clean. i.e. grind or sand the paint off in that spot where the ground is going to be on.

i see. so your saying go from the negative under the hood to the frame? i have the positive hooked to the pos fuse box screw.. where do i get the negative from? the old terminal?
that makes sense tho i dont know why i didnt think of that thanks aftermath

[AftermathAlero]

I'm saying add grounds from frame to engine block. To complete the circuit. Also is your positive cable from the starter into the fuse box screw as well?

[BlackJack]

I use 1 gauge (2 is also acceptable) for both positive and negative. You're putting way too much starting amperage through your cables, and I wouldn't be surprised if that wasn't a contributing factor in the melt-down, aside from moisture penetration or a poor ground source. Ensure your ground is to the frame, not the sheet-metal in the trunk.

If you're never planning on racing, you don't need to worry about an external shutoff switch which is required for the track tech inspection if you relocate. You should under all circumstances with a trunk mount, have a sealed battery box with vent tube, and this is how I ran my power lines:

run the positive (red) cable through a corregated loom cover under the trunk carpet, under the back seat, under the floor carpet, and out through the front firewall, and put a grommet around it at any point it passes through sheet-metal. Make sure it's not going to be pinched anywhere so your insulation doesn't get rubbed through and short out. Attach this to the starter where the primary battery positive used to go. keep the original battery wire attached as well, we're going to use it later. This way you still get continuity between the battery through the starter, and on to the original power supply wire to the fuse box.

Run the ground cable out the battery box in the trunk, drill a hole through the bottom of the trunk and again a rubber grommet at the sheet metal, and underneath to bolt on to the frame. I used the metal bumper mount bracket to the frame for a point to torque it down to for a solid ground.


Now back to the original battery wire. The terminal that used to connect the battery to the starter, and the primary power source to the fuse box, run a nut/bolt/lockwasher assembly through the two parts inside the insulator, and cover it with something with insulating properties, and secure it where it won't rub through on metal anywhere.

Haven't had any starting, charging or shorting problems.

It also has a clean install appearance if done correctly:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/qaddamage/myturbo/battery.jpg

[cherrington17]

if your having moisture issues, you can try coating your connections in dielectric grease. it should keep them somewhat resistant to water. (beyond what BJ and Aftermath added)

[BlackJack]

if your having moisture issues, you can try coating your connections in dielectric grease. it should keep them somewhat resistant to water. (beyond what BJ and Aftermath added)

it sounds like a simple fix if it's moisture (the correct thing to do is fix the trunk leak), but if the overheating is caused by overdraw on amperage or poor grounding, it will boil that grease (and any other coating) right off in nothing flat. In which case, it will still short for certain, and possibly burn the car to the ground after the carpet catches fire. Good idea in concept though, Chris. I applaud your efforts at trying another angle.

[cherrington17]

i definitely recommend all the other fixes first. but as a decent secondary measure, that grease works great.

[worknprog.99]

it sounds like a simple fix if it's moisture (the correct thing to do is fix the trunk leak), but if the overheating is caused by overdraw on amperage or poor grounding, it will boil that grease (and any other coating) right off in nothing flat. In which case, it will still short for certain, and possibly burn the car to the ground after the carpet catches fire. Good idea in concept though, Chris. I applaud your efforts at trying another angle.

thank you guys it was due to the wet poor ground in the trunk and the slow turn over was no ground from the frame to block like aftermath said...and my bat hot wire is exactly like yours blackjack, so i did it right yay lol

and yes i need to fix that trunk leak... i had a sunroof leak and door jam leak
and fixed them last one is the trunk leak lol

[worknprog.99]

so the turbo is defected already!! a hole in the exhaust side....
money is non existant anymore for me i cannot do anymore myself and dont have the money to do it. i really want to have this turboed but unfortunatley it probably wont happen (go ahead have at me guys) but before i here shit im not giving up im looking at the way things are. alot has been spent, my job at the dealer is very slim to stay around, my help never did help me (he flaked and gave up!!!!) and i owe 3500 on the car and i cannot afford to spend more on this (as it will take alot more to finish)

im not giving up im altering plans, i tried my hardest but i just simply cant make it happen currently in life....

go ahead let me hear it.. (as i bow my head with shame)

i will have parts in the bazaar if i do stop(which is very likely)

[cherrington17]

can't give it too ya too hard... such is the way of the land now. hope someone gets a decent deal, if you decide to kill the project.

[[ion] C2]

Why/how does the turbo have a hole in it?

[worknprog.99]

not sure how but there is a good sized chipped out hole in the exhaust turbine..

and thanks you cherry i really dont want to quit ir here i told you so from people.. its not completely decided but its looking hard to make work( not actually turboing but life) :(

[[ion] C2]

pictures

[worknprog.99]

you cant see it in a pictures... it is a chip lookling thing that one could easily weld a patch to.. it looks as though it was slammed really hard into something... but thats not the reason why this project may not happen though.

[BlackJack]

don't give up man. you got through the hard part which is to take action and start getting the parts together. Lots of people talk mad crap about what they're "gonna do" and never even begin. Sit on the stuff you got, or start a "don't touch this money for any reason" fund and save up. It's not going to magically happen on it's own, you have to make a decision and ride it through to the end.

[kwhauck]

don't give up man. you got through the hard part which is to take action and start getting the parts together. Lots of people talk mad crap about what they're "gonna do" and never even begin. Sit on the stuff you got, or start a "don't touch this money for any reason" fund and save up. It's not going to magically happen on it's own, you have to make a decision and ride it through to the end.

:stupid:

[worknprog.99]

yeah i know what your saying... i may sit on the stuff a while

[Spilner521]

Yeah, you should sit on parts for awhile. You never know how situations will change, and then you wouldn't have to start over.

I'm sitting on basically an entire turbo setup for the Ecotec, minus the turbo and a few other parts. Not sure what I want to do with it all yet.

[worknprog.99]

Yeah, you should sit on parts for awhile. You never know how situations will change, and then you wouldn't have to start over.

I'm sitting on basically an entire turbo setup for the Ecotec, minus the turbo and a few other parts. Not sure what I want to do with it all yet.

here is my logic tho.. i got this car running tip top shape and it has 74000 miles on it and i have way less invested than you guys robably think due to connections i have.. and with the economy and my personal financial crisis idk what to do....

however my buddy has a set of rims i would love to have (rims where after turbo originaly) and he wants to do an even trade for a few of my turbo parts.... should i do it?
i dont want to call it defeat but moreso mature descision making....

[Spilner521]

Having less invested than the parts are worth is another reason to sit on those parts. If you have to do it all over again, you may have to pay full price for the parts you originally got for next to nothing.

It's all up to you though. If you feel you'll want to possibly turbo the car in the future, you can sit on the parts. If you think it probably won't happen, get the rims.

[BlackJack]

depends on your goals. I decided to go all out on performance as my priority, and cosmetics will come later when I'm happy with the way it runs and can go no further without massive breakage.

Some people are the other way around. They want it to look good first, and then make it run faster. I think this is ass backwards though, because why put all that money into the appearance first, then run the risk of ruining paint or other while you're working under the hood. Careful as we all try to be, accidents happen, and I hate to think what would happen while I was doing all that welding on the car. I know it's rims we're talking about here, but make a stand and decide which way to go. You start sinking money into appearance, and there goes your chances for performance, on your budget.

[worknprog.99]

the only parts he wants for the trade is an intercooler(i have 2) and the bov.

i can sit on the rest for a while

[kwhauck]

that being said post pics and specs of said wheels......

[worknprog.99]

that being said post pics and specs of said wheels......

they are adr 17's with rubber on hem 215/40/17 i think
the bolt pattern is 114.3 im pretty sure they will fit after reading posts on here about it

[worknprog.99]

pic of them... i have always loved these wheels...way better in person the inside of the spokes is black

[[ion] C2]

:eek:

:No:

[worknprog.99]

C2;463751']:eek:

:No:

what? you dont like them?
i test fitted one today and i liked them....

[kwhauck]

i think the wheels look pretty good, i believe he is shaking his head at the car they are mounted on in the pic........215 is a little too skinny for me.......and that size is way to small for the alero.....

also how wide are the rims and what is the offset......

[worknprog.99]

i think the wheels look pretty good, i believe he is shaking his head at the car they are mounted on in the pic........215 is a little too skinny for me.......and that size is way to small for the alero.....

yeah he has an audi now lol...
i love the wheels... they are pretty low pro its either 220 or 215

[kwhauck]

an audi? so he got raped on price for a rebadged vw? Anyways, it would be a 225 or 215, but like i said the size you listed is way to small.

also, what is the rim width and offset.....

[[ion] C2]

I don't like the wheels. They just don't look right.. I'd have to see them on the car.

[AbHeLlRaZoR]

I think those wheels would look way better on an Alero then on a Probe... I still laugh back in high school some kid's dad bought him an Audi A4 and all his friends were making a big deal out of it I can still remember the looks on there face when I said it's an over priced re badged VW then the mechanics teacher said that I wasn't lying about it.

[BlackJack]

just my opinion, the smaller the rim, the taller the tire you'll need to fill up the fender wells to make it look right (instead of like a 4x4 with 13's on it). Personally, I wouldn't recommend getting attached to anything less than an 18". And really, no amount of safe lowering is going to solve the gap problem on less than an 18".

[worknprog.99]

i have 16 now with very little wheel gap... if i get these wheels i probably will get new tires a little thicker...

and yes they look way better in person....

and yeah im not sure why he got an audi when he was wanting a gtp for the longest time

[worknprog.99]

C2;463775']I don't like the wheels. They just don't look right.. I'd have to see them on the car.

whats wrong with them? they dont look too outragoues but not too plane. just what i want in a rim lol

[Spilner521]

If you like them, get them. Don't worry about what anyone else thinks.

You'll need 225/45-17 tires.

[worknprog.99]

i think they are 220 40 17 now.. but they are used so i probably will end up getting some good ones from my work...

and yes it doesnt matter what other people think its my car lol ;)

[worknprog.99]

heres a pic of the wheels i got.... i think there mad sexy lol.although look way way better in person

[BlackJack]

*sigh*

Had hope there for a minute. Well, good luck anyways.

[worknprog.99]

*sigh*

Had hope there for a minute. Well, good luck anyways.

?? hope for what??

[Gr1m]

your turbo coming before your rims

[BlackJack]

?? hope for what??

I've seen this a hundred times if once. When people are a little shy of the mark, they don't have the patience. They switch goals to something immediately attainable for instant gratification, and continue with that justification until eventually, they convince themselves to lose interest in their original plan, because they keep screwing themselves out of it.

Next it will be a cold air intake. Then it will be (unnecessary) high-dollar spark plug wires because it sounds cool. Then it will be a bigger muffler (which will outflow the capabilities of the engine). Each item is cheap enough to grasp over the short term, but it will nickel and dime you out of getting to the big fish.

Rims are a dime-a-dozen, and you can always find someone unloading them cheap. It takes time and discipline to stockpile the parts needed for a turbo system, because you can't really use any of it until you have all of them at once, and that doesn't fit with the "instant gratification" personality.

When I say I had hope, means I just watched what could have been a good start on a turbo system go down the tubes.

In the end, it's your car, your money, and your way. Go for that Pep-Boys special if that's what's in the cards for you. I just hated to see all that potential go down the tubes.

[NickAlero2000]

A turbo setup is difficult on the Aleros. I had my instant gratification with my rims, they were nice, and I never regret getting them, but had I known then what I know now, I'd be sitting on a nice turbo setup and a completely sleeper car.

My point, don't give up on boost!!! The end IS worth it! BJ is more than correct there.
I'm still stocking away parts right now, patiently waiting until the day I can put it all together and enjoy the result.

If you have to wait more to enjoy something, you'll enjoy it even more!

[worknprog.99]

im still sitting on the parts i got the rims for a bov that i payed 40 for.

ANYONE to turn that down is retarded

[AbHeLlRaZoR]

you can still get multiple parts for the price of the rims would of cost you if you didn't trade for a $40 BOV I think that's a hell of a deal.

[worknprog.99]

you can still get multiple parts for the price of the rims would of cost you if you didn't trade for a $40 BOV I think that's a hell of a deal.

if i really wanted to i could sell the rims and have the turbo done
but i would never turn that deal down

[AbHeLlRaZoR]

I think almost anyone here would agree sell the wheels and finish the turbo, no one would expect a stock looking Alero to be boosted then you can save up and get a pair of slicks or drag radials latter with a set of light weight wheels, well that's how I would do it.

[BlackJack]

im still sitting on the parts i got the rims for a bov that i payed 40 for.

ANYONE to turn that down is retarded

well, that's my cue to leave. I'm the retarded one that would have turned that down so I could have spent that $40 towards a GOOD QUALITY boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, or wideband A/F gauge. at least something I would need to get my turbo system closer to completion.

Rims in hand, they'll end up on the car. I challenge you to prove me wrong. Intentions are one thing.

Peace.

[worknprog.99]

well, that's my cue to leave. I'm the retarded one that would have turned that down so I could have spent that $40 towards a GOOD QUALITY boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, or wideband A/F gauge. at least something I would need to get my turbo system closer to completion.

Rims in hand, they'll end up on the car. I challenge you to prove me wrong. Intentions are one thing.

Peace.

well of course they will go on the car....
i wasnt going for any personal attack but right now that was the best deal going for me...

im not a quitter everything will get worked out.

[worknprog.99]

I think almost anyone here would agree sell the wheels and finish the turbo, no one would expect a stock looking Alero to be boosted then you can save up and get a pair of slicks or drag radials latter with a set of light weight wheels, well that's how I would do it.

also as i owe 3500 on the car still i think adding to the strenght of the motor first would be better than jumping straight to boost (many people said that is a must)
reason being i do not want to put all the money into it right away and ruin the motor, me, i think thats intelligent. am i wrong?

[Spilner521]

Stock engine can take boost easily. Whoever told you it is a must is wrong. Just don't get too happy with the boost controller knob.

[worknprog.99]

Stock engine can take boost easily. Whoever told you it is a must is wrong. Just don't get too happy with the boost controller knob.

how much psi? because probably early july i am picking this back up, i have a few vacations in june that i need money for before the car.

[[ion] C2]

it's not about pressure, it's about power output

[worknprog.99]

ok so i am slowly building my money back now that i know im going to keep my job!!!

so this project is slowly kicking back in...
now im wanting to make my manifolds first, my question is do both sides have to meet at the turbo inlet or could i make a "T" off the crossover pipe then run a straight pipe for the turbo to sit on..(can illustrate if needed).??

if i can get the manifolds and DP made this has potential of getting done at last lol i sat on majority of the parts so most things are still here :)

[[ion] C2]

Yeah, illustrate that. Best method is equal length and air all flowing in the same direction smoothly to the turbine inlet.

[Blktrax]

... my question is do both sides have to meet at the turbo inlet or could i make a "T" off the crossover pipe then run a straight pipe for the turbo to sit on..(can illustrate if needed).??

if i can get the manifolds and DP made this has potential of getting done at last lol i sat on majority of the parts so most things are still here :)

C2;476245']Yeah, illustrate that. Best method is equal length and air all flowing in the same direction smoothly to the turbine inlet.

Basicly something like this. Its all a matter of making it fit. (Granted this is a 3800 but same idea)
http://www.pfyc.com/mm5/graphics/new/wb3041.jpg

My issue with this design is there is A LOT of heat directly under the thorttle body.

Some Companies like STS mount the turbo at the back of the car just because of space contraints and the system still works.
I've been trying to find a compromise to mount the turbo between the subframe and the firewall, but the trans and steering rack take a ton of space.


Ah Mega pic link to a 3400 swapped into a baretta with boost.
http://brewcitymuscle.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10336

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v729/Berettaspeed/Turbo122.jpg

[[ion] C2]

Oh, yeah, that's fine. If you have a turbo blanket it doesn't matter. Plus the air moves so quickly in the pipes it's not going to heat up before it gets to the engine after the intercooler.

[Blktrax]

I was mostly refering to heat soak, espically if its a daily driver.

[worknprog.99]

there is not enough clearence in the bay for the turbo to go under the TB i tried lol. it has to go farther to the side

[worknprog.99]

so the guy i know that just got a job with me have been shooting the shit for awhile today and have came up with an alternative way to turbo the 3400 without much modification pipewise.. it kinda incorperates the ideas with the STS backmount turbo (which i thought about being the first on here to custom make one of those, were still throwing around the idea.) however im waiting for the car to cool down to go out and look around to see if its possible..

i REALLY wanna do this it would be so unique around here i would love that so im hoping back on the horse to pursue this although its frustrating

[jrim]

How is there not room for your turbo to go there when other turbo 3400 aleros have theirs there? Btw that thread of the baretta turbo had me rollin lol