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View Full Version : Rear Defroster


psu2ski321
03-06-2008, 01:16 PM
Im wondering if anyone has ever had their re-defroster go bad on them. It seems like it all of a sudden decided to stop working. Could this be a possible fuse problem?

pimpalero2003
03-06-2008, 01:17 PM
its common the little moduel burns up its on the pass side in the rear behind the plastic!

pimpalero2003
03-06-2008, 01:18 PM
ive had 3 go out and last one burnt a shit load of wires!

black
03-06-2008, 01:36 PM
i had the same issue.

i did not get a new one, i just removed the
melted connector and soldered the wires.

there are pix on the site.

the rear defroster and antenna are both in the same unit.

psu2ski321
03-06-2008, 02:11 PM
is there anyway you could send me a link to where i may be able to see some pictures of this. Is something i can fix myself? What will i need?

cavaliers60
03-06-2008, 02:19 PM
i had the same issue.

i did not get a new one, i just removed the
melted connector and soldered the wires.

there are pix on the site.

the rear defroster and antenna are both in the same unit.

Soldering it works great right? I won't have any problems with it??? Mine hasn't been working since I bought the car and the dealership was going to charge me $180 to fix it... and that's with the 50% warranty I got with the car....

Satsuriku
03-06-2008, 02:22 PM
i did not get a new one, i just removed the
melted connector and soldered the wires.

ya your going to have to explain this one a bit more cause mine hasent been working since fall....

pimpalero2003
03-06-2008, 03:02 PM
think he might of took it apart and soldered the wires to the unit..
basically ud have to splice in a new connecter and plug it into the new unit. unit is held on by a 10mm nut

black
03-06-2008, 03:39 PM
sure.

ill snap a few pix.

or, i am sure there are pix here already on this..

let me search

black
03-06-2008, 03:44 PM
the basic idea is to cut off the connector, solder on new leads to
the unit (i used 4" wires)
and use wirenuts to connect them.

out of all the things i have fixed on the ho, that was by far the easiest to do.

psu2ski321
03-15-2008, 10:48 AM
hey guys, went to the dealer the other day to see what they would charge me to fix the module and connector. They wanted $350 to fix it, obviously i didnt let them do the work. They told me that the connector is bad (which i can see melted) but they also told me that the module went bad as well. I'm not sure if the the dealership was trying to take advantage or what. Is there any way of testing the module somehow, or do i take it a step at a time and just put on the new connector? also, is it possible to order these parts online?

black
03-15-2008, 11:15 AM
before you order anything, do you know how to solder?

if so, just cut off the melted connector
solder on 2 6" wires to the module.
connect the wires using wirenuts.

see if it works.

Vinalero
03-15-2008, 12:50 PM
go to a local junkyard, i got another module plus fine connector for around 30 bucks. I just cut the older connector and soldered the wires to my new connector. The only thing is that if you dont have the proper tool to remove the seat belt attachtment, the module is a pain to acces, but I still made it. I'd see that being even more difficult on a 4 door...

black
03-15-2008, 01:05 PM
i only had (iirc) one bolt, and didnt have to remove any thing else.

black
03-15-2008, 01:06 PM
^^ besides the pillar cover...

Pilate
10-31-2008, 04:44 PM
Took mine apart soldered it and put it back in...works great! Tried to get one used first, the only HO I could find in the junkyard had the same problem.