Ugg

[elitecloud]

so here i am, wanting to simpley run to phoenix, grab some salad and soup at olive garden, on my weekend, and my car starts acting stupid...
shuts off on the freeway, not wanting to drive at all, i'd push the gas and it wouldn't go, would rev just not very much...

so i wait for my mom for 3 hours, the whole time thinking wtf......i'm looking at it and it was a simple thing with my aftermarket intake, it just came loose off the throttle body but in 3 hours in the heat i never noticed it off, so i just put it back and voila....but i notice a radiator hose is looking weird, collapsed on itself....take an empty 20oz coke bottle, suck the air out of it, that's what the hose looked like...(i unscrew the radiator cap and the hose goes back to normal)

i'm like ok, so i drive the car around the block, all good so i run to pep-boys who also does minor repair, they won't touch my car because it has ""Aftermarket parts on it"" ....wha? it's just a simple Air Intake, and straight pipe with a filter, you gotta be kidding me....


should i get a new radiator pipe?

would just having the throttle body without an intake / MAF etc. cause the car to act stupid?

[jackal2000]

no air flowing by the MAF = no fuel being delivered. my understanding is that the MAF determines A/F ratio

[elitecloud]

ok, the shop wants $260 bucks to change two hoses and add coolant

it's two hoses, i should be able to do this myself right?

anybody got a walkthrough on how i would go about doing this? do i need to drain all the old coolant out? suck it out or somthing?

cuz $260 with 2 hours of labor at $70 /hr is a bit ridiuclous

[BlackJack]

no air flowing by the MAF = no fuel being delivered. my understanding is that the MAF determines A/F ratio

Very close. However, your base IFR (injector flow rate) is in your MAP tables. That determines your fuel delivery on a larger scale. Your MAF tables basically fine tunes it by a modifier table with each frequency range. The car will still deliver fuel based on MAP sensor, but will run rough or even shut off if the MAF isn't connected or reading air flow. So fuel is actually being delivered, but either too much or too little for it to run correctly with no modifier. So yes, you are correct to an extent. It screws it up.

Now, on the matter of a collapsed hose. You can replace them much more cheaply yourself, it's not that hard. I think you might find something bigger at the root though, so be ready for the possibility for it to collapse again. It takes suction with resistance somewhere in the system to cause a hose to collapse. That means there is likely to be a flow restriction somewhere in your system such as the radiator (clogged) as a possibility. Check it again after changing the hoses. If it doesn't collapse again, then you're good. If it does collapse, go for the cheap stuff first, like thermostat, then the radiator. Most shops will test a radiator for you for flow (but they may not be honest).

[elitecloud]

need instructions bj!!

just buy hoses, pull old ones off, put new ones on, refill tank to same level with coolant, and tada?

no draining all of the coolant....?

[BlackJack]

ok, we're gonna have to get more basic than I expected. Put a drain pan of some sort under the passenger side radiator hose, remove and drain (make sure the vehicle is cool first...heh). I have no idea if you have pinch clamps that you remove with pliers, or screw clamps....so you'll have to handle that one. Once that's done, remove the driver's side hose from the radiator, and allow to drain. Put the new hoses on, fill the system through the overflow tank with water, run it for a short time just to circulate, then drain again as before. mix your coolant (or premixed, whichever) and refill per instructions on the jug. Look for leaks, and watch for collapsed hose again.

[elitecloud]

ok, we're gonna have to get more basic than I expected. Put a drain pan of some sort under the passenger side radiator hose, remove and drain (make sure the vehicle is cool first...heh). I have no idea if you have pinch clamps that you remove with pliers, or screw clamps....so you'll have to handle that one. Once that's done, remove the driver's side hose from the radiator, and allow to drain. Put the new hoses on, fill the system through the overflow tank with water, run it for a short time just to circulate, then drain again as before. mix your coolant (or premixed, whichever) and refill per instructions on the jug. Look for leaks, and watch for collapsed hose again.

OK!!!!!

BJ, i'm from the south, you gotta get as basic as it gets for me to understand

:scpimp: